Eagle

I have one that could be for sale. Not sure how many miles are on it, but it's supposed to be in decent shape internally. I'm in southern Connecticut. How far north in maine in Bingham? (For reference, I'm 5 hours from Portland, 4 hours from the I-95 bridge to NH at Kittery.)

But did you bleed the by-pass line for the rear height-sensing valve? I'm betting you didn't. Which means if you lose your front brakes, you will have NO brakes. Not good ...

There's a special procedure for bleeding MJ brakes if you still have the rear proportioning valve in place. I posted the instructions awhile ago. I'd post the link, but I'd have to search for it and I have friends coming over, so I'll let you do the search. It's here ... somewhere.

I know someone who has (I think he still has it) a NIB factory Stage 3 cam kit for the 2.5L. I have no idea what he might want for it, if he still has it, but I believe his plans changed and he no longer has a need for it. Let me know if you'd like me to find out if it's available.

I think I saw an ashtray out in the garage. I'll take a look-see after I finish fixing the roof (if I don't fall off and kill myself). Send me a PM tonight with your address, as a reminder to me to look for it.

There are two flip clips that lock onto the actuators, one on each side. You just flip them off the rods and remove the handle.

I'm going to say Dana 60. (Possibly 70?)

Or the most psychic ... So you have a photo of a frame section that is supposedly out of a Ford, with an invisible axle under it that may or may not be the original axle from whatever vehicle provided the frame ... and we're supposed to guess what the axle might be? Not me, Mate.

It's in the thermostat housing. But it isn't a "switch." It's a sensor, which sends data to the ECU, and the ECU controls the fan. It's a completely different setup than the Renix years, where the fan switch in the radiator tank really is just a switch.

Budget boost. 1-3/4" coil spacers for the front, shackles or AAL for the rear. Personally, I think longer shackles kill the springs. I'd go with a Rancho long AAL kit for th rear.

Both But (as usual) I'm confused. Your title said "slave" cylinder, but it's the master cylinder that trashes fuse panels. What are you having problems with, the master, the slave, or both?

I can dredge up part numbers if you need 'em, but be prepared -- they cost me $65 each, with a discount, about four or five years ago. They're probably pushing $100 per side today. A better deal might be "Cargo Coils" from NAPA or Carquest. They have part numbers that start (cleverly) with 'CC' followed by (IIRC) a 2-digit number. They'll be less than half the price of OEM.

Theoretically, you could install an open radiator and leave the surge tank, but that leaves you with the same disadvantages of a plastic tank that's prone to crack and have the cap warp so it doesnt seal. And the "open" radiators don't have any place in the driver's side tank for the temperatire sensor that controls the auxiliary fan, so if you have an aux fan you'll be lft trying to find a way to control it.

The rumour I heard was that Chrysler was going to buy GM. Who knows?

I think the OP has air in the system. If there's air, the coolant won't flow to the surge tank, and the temp sensor for the gauge will read hot because it's at one of the hottest points on the engine (which is why they put it there) and tends to attract steam pockets if the system isn't full. Another cute trick is, when the system isn't properly filled there won't be any heat, because the coolant level is too low to flow through the heater core.

Oh, yeah. Most definitely. This is NOT something to take lightly. If your injectors are leaking, do NOT drive the vehicle. Do not even start the engine. The fuel from the leaking injectors drips onto the hot exhaust manifold and ... POOF! Crispy critters and roasty toasties. If you think you smell gas around the front of the vehicle ... open the hood and find out where it's coming from before you allow the truck to self-immolate.

I sort of agree regarding abstaining, but why is voting FOR someone you think deserves to get votes in any way irresponsible? This country's two-party system is corrupt and has been hijacked by special interests. If more people would vote for third (or fourth, or fifth) party candidates, maybe the big two would start giving us some real candidates again.

There are two possible places where they leak: (1) the O-rings, and (2) the connection between the metal portion of the body and the plastic portion. If the metal-to-plastic bond lets go, there is no possible repair. This is not a new problem. I watched an XJ burn up in front of my then-GF's house ten years ago, and a couple of years after that a friend in NAXJA knew his injectors were leaking but drove his MJ to the dealership to buy new O-rings. He walked out of the parts department to find his truck in flames.

Politics in Jeep forums is a bad idea. Sorry, but I'm not playing ...

It isn't an alternator gauge. It's a voltage gauge. It reads the voltage in the wiring at the instrument panel. Occasionally, if there's corrosions in various connections, the gauge reads low but the alternator is putting out the correct voltage if you test at the battery. I have that in my '88. Don't know why yours would be completely dead. Put a known 12-volt source directly to the two posts on the back of the gauge and see if it gives a reading.

A complete circuit runs from the positive terminal of the battery to the device (ideally through a fuse) and perhaps a switch of some kind) and then back to the negative terminal of the battery. If the "wiring" ends somewhere on the chassis before getting to the negative terminal of the battery, and corrosion in any way and at any point interrupts the flow through the chassis or from the chassis to the battery -- you don't have a circuit. Your idea of using a multi-terminal bus and wiring the grounds directly to the battery using (I hope) copper wire of suitable gauge is far superior to the OEM wiring. The only reason the manufacturers do it the way they do is because it saves a lot of wire, and wire costs them a few pennies per vehicle. Go for it.

There are spacers, and then there are spacers. The type you can buy for a few bucks at Pep Boys are dangerous. The ones that sell for $50 to $100 each are machined, aircraft-grade aluminum alloy and will probably outlive an MJ. Just be sure you're getting the good ones and you'll be fine.

Enough to keep it from falling out when the suspension droops, and still have enough spline engaged to drive the truck without shearing off the splines. But you also have to remember that the suspension compresses, and as the suspension compresses it shoves the slip yoke deeper into the transfer case. You need to cycle your suspension to the bumpstops and make certain that the yoke is going to be smashed into the tailshaft or tailshaft housing at full suspension compression. If you have a big lift, with a correspondingly high driveshaft angle, and a very flexy suspension, the yoke may actually move more than your yoke and tailshaft can accommodate. If that happens you have two choices: (1) Install limiting straps and/or bump stops to reduce the total amount of suspension (and thus yoke) travel; or (2) Install a slip yoke eliminator and have a drive shaft made up with a long slip spline in the drive shaft.

The polarity of the sender was reversed in the 91+ as stated above. There is a 3-pin connector on top of the fuel tank. The sensor (variable resistor) outputs to the gauge are pin A (ground, BLK wire) and pin B (variable resistance out, BLU wire). The wire colors may be different for your model, but the pins should be the same. Swap these two wires and it should work correctly. It still will not be 100% accurate because the sensor resistance values are different between the two, but at least the needle will go in the right direction. :D ^^^ What he said.

Hornbrod - I studied your diagram and I couldn't see where it routes power for the relay control feed through the headlight circuit. After reading your post three times, I figured out that you're assuming there is an existing fog light harnbess in the vehicle to tap into. Dunno what they did in 1991, but in the AMC years the fog light harness was not included. If you added fog lights later, you had to buy the complete harness, or make your own. And the factory harness worked for FOG lights, but was backwards for driving lights. This thread asked about "driving" lights. I was interpreting the original post in this thread as meaning that there isn't a harness already in the vehicle, so the OP is starting from scratch.