Eagle

I think a recent post suggested that Rusty's is now offering a WJ style LCA for the XJ/MJ/ZJ. Dunno that I have much faith in anything from Rusty's, but check his web site and see if he lists it.

The '84 through '86 tachometers did not have the adjustable potentiometer. The '88 through ?? did. I am not sure if '87 went with the old style or new style, or if they may have used some of each in the '87 model year.

That's the one!

You have a 4-cylinder, right? Did the tach come from a vehicle with a 4-cylinder? If not, that's the problem. Aftermarket tachs have a switch to set them for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders. A tachometer just counts ignition pulses, and spins a needle on a dial that's calibrated in RPMs. Our engines are 4-cycle, so each revolution only fire half the cylinders. If the tach is calibrated for a 6-cylinder, 3 pulses indicate one revolution. But a 4-cylinder engine only produces 2 pulses per revolution, so it has to spin 1-1/2 times to have the tach show 1 revolution. If you have a 6-cylinder tach in a 4-cylinder vehicle, when the tach reads 3000 RPM the engine is actually turning at 4500 RPM.

If your route takes you near the junction of I-80 and I-81, be sure to check out Harry's u-pull junkyard. It may be the biggest u-pull in the known galaxy, and usually has a bunch of XJs and MJs. It's in Hazleton, right off the highway a couple of exits south on I-81 from the I-80 interchange.

There are actually two routes to go with the metal replacement. I used a Moroso racing surge tank. It's a universal part made for racing applications, and it's available (for less money than I paid at my "friendly" local speed shop) from Summit Racing. To use the Moroso, you have to buy a few standard copper pipe fittings at a plumbing supply house and know how to sweat copper pipe joints. More recently, some enterprising company has come up with an all-metal replacement for the XJ/MJ tank that is flat, fits in the OEM location, and has all the fittings built in. The initial cost of this one is higher than for the Moroso, but by the time you factor in the extra parts needed for the Moroso and the extra labor to sweat the fittings and make a mount -- the newer one is probably the preferable option. There were photos of it on here awhile back. I don't have a link to them but you should be able to find them.

No. Not true. Not until it gets so low the pump can't pick up oil. At that point you don't have low oil pressure, you have no oil pressure. Those numbers do not indicate "good." The factory spec is 13 psi minimum at 650 RPM idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. As BLHTAZ noted, that's at normal operating temperature. Most 4.0L XJs and MJs run between 50 and 55 psi on the highway at the speed limit, which is around 2000 RPM (or lower if you have a 5-speed). Your pressures are marginal, at best. What weight oil are you running?

Looks good to me just the way it sits. Nice MJs are too rare to be chopped up and modified, IMHO. That's what junkers are for.

+1 to the above. Check with a mechanical gauge, and be sure NEVER to use a FRam filter. But ... you don't seem to understand what the oil light does. It's not a warning on low oil level, it's a warning of low oil pressure. The dipstick tells you the level, not the light.

You probably need to clean and lubricate the ratchet on the foot pedal.

For starters, if it's a 1990 you don't have a carb.

If it's an '87 it isn't a V6, and if it's a V6 it isn't an '87. If it IS a V6 and it has 289,000+ miles on it ... run away as fast as your legs can carry you. That engine isn't even heavy enough to be a decent boat anchor. The 4.0L I-6 will live to that kind of mileage -- my '88 is around 282,000 right now -- but it's pushing things. I bought mine new and I know the oil has been changed religiously. The AMC I-6 is an incredibly durable engine, but everything has limits. If it is a 4.0L and it feels gutless ... there may be problems. Keep in mind the early 4.0L engines were drag race engines -- they make low-end torque rather than high-end horsepower, so the 2000 feels a lot "gutsier," but it's largely because it runs freer at higher RPM. They both get about the same gas mileage (low 20s), so my old one isn't quite finished yet.

Try Husky Spring. Home page www.huskyspring.com or http://www.huskyspring.com/main.taf?cat=132

It all depends on what radio package was ordered. My '88 Chief has them. My '87 Pioneer does not.

Adding a second MJ main leaf should give you between 1" and 1-1/2" of lift, and should not detract noticeably from the ride. If the main leaf doesn't provide enough lift, splice in the second leaves from the donor packs as well. Cut the tips off so the ends fall between the number 2 and number three of the original leaf pack.

Mud tiresw absolutely suck in snow and ice, and generally on pavement. The cleats typically aren't siped (or aren't well siped), and siping is what you need for street (and ice) traction. Mud tires have big, open cleats in order to throw out the mud. That doesn't work well for snow. The best snow tires are built on the theory that nothing sticks better to snow than snow, so the cleats and sipes are designed to RETAIN snow, so the snow in the tires will stick to the snow under the tires and generate traction. The two types of tires are more or less mutually exclusive. If you want the best of both worlds, go with a fairly standard A/T tire or a M+S tire.

That's not a factory brushguard, and the factory one that came on my '87 MJ doesn't look even remotely like that one. If that's the style you like ... buy it. It's a GREAT price.

What's the diameter of the U-bolts? MJ U-bolts should be 14mm. XJ U-bolts are 12mm. Replacement U-bolts are usually 1/2" or 7/16" for XJs. I use 1/2" for the MJ also, but to better approximate 14mm they should be 9/16". I just figure 1/2" is already slightly larger than 12mm, so a new, healthy 1/2" U-bolt is probably as good as a rusty old 14mm for the usage I'll be subjecting it to.

If your fuse panel is ruined, your clutch master cylinder is leaking. Be sure to fix that before replacing the fuse panel or you'll just do it again before too long.

Do you want mud tires, or rain-on-pavement tires? "Mud" tires are designed with big, deep cleats, widely spaced, so they get a good grab in DEEP mud and throw the stuff out as they spin. They are good for ... deep mud, and they more or less suck for anything else. If you're looking for decent tires for your daily driver, your best bet is either all-season tires or M+S tires.

That is exactly what you said. And it is not correct. The AMC non c-clip D35s used metal plugs. The Chrysler c-clip D35s used rubber plugs.

In an XJ, the front passenger seat has its own lever, it isn't connected to the driver's seat. That lever isn't there on the MJ passenger seat base, but it could easily be made up out of a length of 1/4" steel rod from Home Deport and weld in. Or ... just set the passenger seat half or 2/3 of the way back and leave it.

Its what i did...cost me $9 bucks for some HD perches...my SUA perches are still there too if i ever decide to go back Ok but where did you get the perches and not just that I was thinking of the shocks. Do I have to mount a braket for them as well? I do not weld and that was one of the reasons why I think I would just get the bolt on kit and well it would be alot eazer to find someone and paythem to do it. THE best deal on spring perches is your friendly, local MOPAR dealer. They are in the Mopar Performance Catalog, part number P4120074. That part number is for a PAIR, and the cost is about $15. You'll pay upwards of $40 a pair enywhere else, and they won't be as good as these.

I seem to be fresh out of originality after scrambling to finish Christmas shopping for my wife and then trying to get everything wrapped before she could see what I was doing, so ... MERRY CHRISTMAS.

Yep. Ed Stevens over on the NAXJA forum has done extensive testing and shown hat even 31x10.50s on stock Jeep rims will stuff inside the sheet metal and flares in the front. As soon as you reduce backspacing, it creates interference problems up front when the suspension compresses, requiring trmimming and/or additional lift that would NOT be needed running OEM rims.