Eagle

:huh???: But, like ... how do you drive while you're doin' that?

If you do that, you'll destroy the backing plate. I suggest you take another try at turning the star adjuster all the way in. Even if there's a lip from wear, the drum had to go on over the shoes. I've never seen a lip so bad that the drum won't come right off once the star wheel is cranked all the way in. Are there parking brake cables attached to this axle? If so, cut them off as close to the baclkng plate as you cen get. They could be frozen in the extended position and that could be what's holding the shoes out against the drum.

I thought the whole point of text messaging was that NOTHING uses more than four letters. If u cnt say it in 4 ltrs it dsnt cnt.

Are the 9" Chrysler drums cast iron? If so, hit the outer shoulder of the drum HARD with a sledge hammer. It should shatter into 7,347 pieces. (Count 'em if you don't believe me.)

Fuel pump. My NAXJA friend in PA has done two in his wife's 'Burban

The fault lies with our "education" system. Schools now value the students' self-esteem more than they value actually teaching anything, so teachers rarely (if ever) correct writing such as this when they see it on assignments. Young people today graduate high school as functional illiterates. Those who go on to college don't get any better there, because the professors' view (rightly, in most respects, but also wrongly since it perpetuates the problem) is that it isn't their job to be teaching high school grammar and punctuation ... so they don't. Which means that most college graduates are also functionally illiterate. Ask my brother some time what he thinks of the University of Connecticut mens' basketball team. Then spend some time on any Internet forum. Even this one. How many posts have we seen asking how to bleed the breaks on a Comanche, or asking if running 33" tires will brake a Dana 35 axle? Whatever vestiges of the English language the high school English teachers haven't destroyed, Hooked on Phonics has finished off with the final coup de grace. Personally, I am much more afraid that morons like this are being elected to positions in which they write the laws we are expected to follow. How the blazes can you write a law that makes any sense if you can't spell your own name correctly?

hold on eagle, are you sure on the 55? because i don't think the BelAir model had window posts 55 or 56. The 57 had the taller, skinnier fins on the back. Maybe not a BelAir? Definitely a Chebbie, though. Can't believe I missed the Lincoln, though. :doh:

The stock track bar bolt is metric, that may be your problem.

Push the drums back on. Turn each drum in the reverse direction while pulling out. Are you certain the star wheels won't turn at all? How did you try screwing them in?

On the 91 and 92 MJ (and 91+ XJ) the ECU is on the inside of the driver's side fender, next to the airbox. I believe the transmission controller is still under the dashboard on the passenger side, like on the Renix years, but I'm not certain on that. Since this is going into a non-Jeep vehicle, it's impossible to know what wiring you'll need. Best suggestion, IMHO, would be to take the entire harness, and then use the parts you need.

OEM Jeep 15x7 steel "wagon wheels." However, I'm so pleased with the ride and handling that I think I'll swap these tires onto a set of Jeep alloys. Gotta be stock rims. Aftermarket rims push the tires too far outboard, and then you start whacking the flares.

:agree: Do it yourself. The prices you're getting are probably fair in terms of hours involved, but the job isn't difficult. However, I'm having trouble understanding why you had to limp home on the parking brake. The rear brakes only do about 20% to 30% of the work in an MJ -- the front brakes do most of the stopping. I've driven both an XJ and an MJ around with a blown line to the rear. The peddle feels a bit lower and spongier, but the actual stopping is virtually unaffected. If you had no brakes because you blew a line to the rear, then you already had a serious problem and didn't recognize it.

Any spring shop can get or make you new stock springs. Lift springs are more of a specialty item. Are you looking for stock springs or lifted?

Looks like I will be getting a TJ tank and cluster now! Yeah, they are directly interchangeable, which is why I'm so surprised the senders have different values. The idea was to have the cluster be cross-platform applicable. The guy I know who did it, several years ago, was Rich Pearson from PA. I'd say you have two ways to go. I gather you're upgrading to the new XJ interior, since the sender values for the actual XJ/MJ are far different than either of the ranges you're discussing. You can use the XJ cluster and just find a TJ gas guage, or you can use a TJ cluster and, if you already have the speedo running for your MJ, swap the XJ speedo into the TJ cluster.

Are you certain that larger injectors will mess up the overhead display? I assume you mean the MPG function. How is that calculated, and why would larger injectors make it less accurate than it already is?

No, the 8.8 would NOT be the easiest swap. The absolute easiest, obviously, would be an MJ Dana 44. Since they are becoming scarce, next up would be an XJ Dana 44 or an XJ Chrysler 8-1/4. Both of those will need the spring perches relocated ... even if you plan on a 6" lift and spring-over (SOA) conversion, the spacing is different for the MJ than the XJ so they'll still need to be moved. With the 8.8, in addition to the perches you also have to deal with changing the pinion yoke to fit the MJ driveshaft, and the fact that the 8.8 is significantly narrower than the MJ axles. To run 32s or 33s with an 8.8 you would absolutely need either aftermarket rims with a LOT less backspacing than factory (which would result in other problems if you run matching rims up front), or spacers for the rear. Using an XJ axle is a lot cleaner and easier. And the 8-1/4, if you get the 29-spline version from a '97 or newer XJ, is nearly as strong as a Dana 44.

dumb question, whats onboard air? It's a compressor mounted in the truck for airing up the tires after you've done an off-road excursion and have to drive home on pavement. Many Jeepers adapt the a/c compressor for this job rather than buy an aftermarket electric compressor.

The previous owner probably tossed in the lift and didn't buy new shocks, which would leave them pretty well maxed out. The ideal solution would obviously be to buy new shocks. If money is tight, you can buy extensions for the upper studs that add maybe 1-1/2" or 2". Whether you get new shocks or use the extenders, you should also extend your bump stops. You don't want the suspension to mash the shock when a wheel moves UP in the wheel well. The shock should not be asked to serve as a bump stop.

It appears you are correct. If the gauge you have requires 270 ohms to register empty, and the sender you use only goes up to 220 ohms, the gauge can't ever indicate empty. It will stop at whatever point on the dial corresponds to 220 ohms. Are you certain that the TJ sender is different? I have a 2000 XJ FSM and that confirms the 270 ohms. But I know a guy in NAXJA who put a 98 or 99 TJ cluster into a 97 XJ and he didn't encounter any problems (that he seemed to be aware of). I have always thought the 97+ XJ and TJ clusters were completely interchangeable, and that would seem to require that the sender values would also have to be the same. Of course, we used a TJ cluster with an XJ sender, so maybe his just registers empty before he runs out of gas, so he'd never notice.

I'd like to go back to the original post for a moment or three: WHY would stroking your 4.0L engine in any way deactivate your overhead console display?

The Wrangler used a carbureted 4.2L through 1990, and then went to the injected 4.0L in 1991 through 1994. Carbs use a maximum of 7 psi, whereas injection needs around 40. I'd say there's NO way that one listing fits all those vehicles. Correction: It only lists the Wrangler from 1991 and newer.

As already noted, for aluminum you need TIG, not MIG. I have a 110-volt flux-core welder. It's suitable only for very light-duty work, and only if you don't really care what the welds look like. I wish I had bought one that takes gas. And if you have 240 volts available in your garage, don't even slow down when you walk past the 110-volt welders. With gas, floor pans -- yes. Bumpers -- maybe, depending on how they are detailed, but probably requiring pre-heating and multiple passes. SOA lift? Not if I'm on the same road with you.

Before I jump to page 2 and see other responses, here are my guesses: Ford PU (+/- 50) 55 Chevrolet BelAir ?? ?? 52 Buick 53 Plymouth 57 Ford Fairlane Ford (mid-60s) Packard (mid-50s) ?? 50 Ford 47 Packard

I know you can run 31x10.50 tires on an MJ with no lift, but many years ago Ed Stevens over on NAXJA wrote that you can do so on an XJ with no lift. Well, I've had two sets of "normal" size street tires (225/75-15 and 235/75-15) buy the farm in short order, so to be mobile while I save pennies for new shoes, I dragged out the 31s I used to run on the 88 MJ and slapped them on Old Faithful. I may never take 'em off. They are big enough that inflating them to 30 psi would mean running only on the center rib of the tread, so for now I have them at a (hopefully) conservative 27 psi. With a 5-speed and 3.07 gears it feels a lot like driving a 4-cylinder, but the ride is incredible. I always carry a few tools, spare parts and "consumables" (oil and coolant) in the back, and it doesn't seem bothered by the weight at all. There is no rubbing in the rear, and only a bit of the standard LCA interference in the front at full steering lock.

My friend who restores old Hudsons deals with an old-time radiator shop that refurbishes and lines gas tanks. For a vehicle for which you can't buy a replacement tank, it makes sense. A new tank for a SWB MJ cost me $150 (approximately) two years ago. The cost to have them open up, clean, and reline the old tank would have been about twice that amount.