Eagle

They are metric.

See my ads in the classifieds. You get the taillights for less than half that, with a whole truck thrown in for nothin' ...

It would not be a "bolt-in" conversion, but didn't someone post pics awhile ago showing late model Cherokee taillights in an MJ?

Check the shipping label. Maybe it will tell you if the shipping was charged to the dealership's account. If so, HIS shipping cost may have been zero. If that be the case, he is both cheating you by overcharging, and stealing shipping services from his employer.

Not a good idea.

I don't think so. But NAXJA was a much different (and, some might say, better) place in the early days, too. As this site grows and attracts more members, we're bound to get a couple of bad apples sooner or later. If that comes to be, I don't think they should be "protected" just because they're a member. That just leaves them at liberty to screw more members.

You are confusing this with the TJ Rubicon "Dana 44" front axle, which uses a Dana 44 (the real one) and the smaller axles, hubs and u-joints found on the standard TJ (and XJ/MJ) Dana 30 front axles.

Guido and Federico (the Kneecap brothers) are standing by, incase the merchandise doesn't show up or isn't as represented.

Nope. The early 8.25s have the same shaft diameter and same number of splines as the D35. The housing and tubes are slightlly stronger, but that's offset (IMHO) by the fact that the 8.25 is a c-clip design and the D35 isn't. As Pete wrote above, it might be worth swapping in an early 8.25 to get a ratio change, but aside from that it's hardly an upgrade at all, and certainly not a "significant" upgrade.

Personally (speaking as a member, not as a moderator -- it's up to Pete to state any "official" position the board may hold), I think after a fair effort to let a seller make good fails to produce a resolution, the seller should be publicly outed so he can't shaft any more members. We aren't shy about letting each other know which vendors don't live up to their promises. Why should someone get a free ride just because they registered on a web forum that doesn't charge for membership?

With disk brakes, it has to be out of a Grand. It's not so much crap in the case, it's that the case IS crap. The Grand Cherokee "Dana 44" has an aluminum case that warps if you look at it cross-eyed. The internals are not fully interchangeable with those of a "real" Dana 44. There's a reason it's for sale for $60. The seller doesn't want to man up and pay somebody to haul it away.

You should replace the radiator just because the original is more than 20 years old and probebly not working very well, but you would NOT need to replace the radiator supports and convert to a 4.0L style radiator. The 3.4L uses the same block as the 2.8L. Use your 2.8L exhaust manifolds and it's a bolt-in conversion. There is an issue regarding balancing of the flywheel. If you decide to go the 3.4L route, we can address that at the appropriate time.

I also get them made locally. IIRC, the last time I had a set made they ran about $6.50 each -- but that's very likely subject to faulty memory. You won't be able to match the exact size. Factory u-bolts for the XJ were 12mm, factory u-bolts for the MJ were 14mm. American sources use American sizes. 1/2" is smaller, and 9/16" is larger. Since I play with both XJs and MJs, I have standardized on using 1/2", made locally by a shop that builds springs for heavy trucks. I figure a NEW, heavy-duty 1/2" u-bolt is at least as good as a 20+ year old, rusty 14mm u-bolt.

The part on the left (in the photo) is the ring gear. The smaller gears (in the photo) are the spider gears. They don't count. In front of them (hidden in the photo) is the pinion gear. You count the teeth on the ring rear and the pinion gear, then divide the ring gear by the pinion gear. If you rotate the ring gear, you should see numbers stamped in the edge. Those are the tooth numbers, and if you perform the above exercise in arithmetic you'll have the ratio.

A chat with the manager of the dealership might be enlightening. He may be stealing parts from the dealership, or he may not. But he very well may be using the dealership's account to ship parts that he is selling privately, and I think the dealership might be interested in that. Even if he's not stealing shipping, the fact he is using the dealership address in private transactions will reflect badly on the dealership if the guy stiffs buyers, as he has been doing. Let us know if that tracking number proves out to be legitimate or fantastical.

Why not? $180 isn't coffee money. I don't know Canadian law, but under U.S. law he is guilty of fraud and you could send the cops after him. If I know someone is ripping me off, I won't hesitate to ruin their life. The world doesn't need people like that.

The 2.5L has the same bell housing bolt pattern s the 2.8L so you can use the same transmission. The motor mounts are also the same. The 4.0L uses different motor mounts (but in the same location), and a different (larger) bell housing, so you would beed a complete engine/transmission/transfer case setup from the 4.0L. Also, the early firewall wasn't designed for the 4.0L, and the 2.5L/2.8L radiator isn't large enough to cool a 4.0L. Some 4.0L conversions have been done that didn't require much modification to the firewall, others report that fairly major surgery was necessary. The entire front sub-assembly that supports the radiator has to come out, and be replaced with the corresponding parts for a 4.0L radiator. In general, a much easier upgrade for a 2.8L is a GM 3.4L V8 out of a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro. It's the same basic block as the 2.8L so it's largely a bolt-in conversion.

Wheel shimmy doesn't wear tires evenly, it results in severe "cupping" -- the tire will look like someone took a knife to it and sliced of bits of tread in a scalloped fashion around the the tire. I think your bent drag link has resulted in excessive toe-in, which typically causes wear on the outside shoulders of the tires.

In your search, since you mentioned brakes, you will need to keep in mind that there are different permutations and combinations of steering knuckles, hubs, rotors and calipers. They do NOT all interchange -- you cannot mix and match parts from different years on the same axle. I have posted the specific a few times. If you can't find it using search, I can post it again in this thread. What's the project? Are you converting something, or replacing a busted axle?

First off, is this really "death wobble," or is it just tire wear, or is it tire wear with some shimmy? With real death wobble, you CANNOT drive the vehicle because the shaking is so bad, and you have to slow down to under 5 MPH before the shaking stops. Anything less than "Oh, God, I'm gonna die RIGHT NOW!" is not "death wobble." It is named that for a reason. Wear on the outside shoulders of one or both front tires indicates too much toe-in, and a bent drag link can cause excess toe-in. Get an alignment.

Since Motion Offroad seems to get excellent customer satisfaction ratings and has pretty decent prices, AND they are active on this forum ... just what do you think some other company could be doing "better"?

I believe the YJ Wranglers had high pinion D30s, but they were leaf spring so hardly a bolt-in replacement. And they had the vacuum disconnect, with a housing that was different from that on the XJ/MJ disconnect, so I don't think it would be easy to fabricate control arm mounts. Not a good choice.

Easy. I lost a set of new tires and wheels that way when I was at college. They take off the lug nuts, yank the tires out as fast as they can, and just let the car drop into the brake drums/rotors. They may have two guys hold up the fender while a third pulls the wheel out -- it actually doesn't take all that much to keep one corner up when the weight is on the other three corners.

I can understand a Jiffy Lube joint not resetting the light. People take their vehicles to dealers and pay the extra money because the dealers are supposed to know how to work on the cars they sell. I can read an instruction manual -- if it makes sense. Which the manual for the light in my 1999 WJ did not. I took it to the dealership for the first few oil changes to ensure there would be NO questions about warranty (and I am SOOOOOO glad I did that), and I fully expected the dealership to reset the light when they changed the oil. nd they did. I only had to bytch about it once out of the several oil changes I had them do.

WHAT tailhousing? The tailhousing is on the OUTPUT end of the transfer case. We're dealing with the INPUT end. There is no tailshaft or tailshaft housing between the transmission and the transfer case. Please, everyone, let's all get on the same page here, and use the correct terminology.