Eagle

TIME OUT! You replaced the WRONG sensor. The sensor in the thermostat housing controls the ECU, which (on the '91) in turn controls the aux fan. BUT ... the sensor for the gauge on the dashboard for the 1991 models is still located in the back left corner of the head, NOT in the thermostat housing.

So what do you think a turbo muffler is? something you bolt to the intake of the turbo to lessen the intake noise. :shake: Wrong. Next victim?

So what do you think a turbo muffler is? Jump to page 7: http://www.thrushexhaust.com/pdf/thrush.pdf

But the original post specified 1/8 mile. For an eighth, I'll still take the Honda. Sorry. I love my XJs and MJs, but I have owned a couple of Civics and an Accord. For the eighth, the Honda has it all over the MJ. Front wheel drive with the weight over the drive wheels, vs. rear wheel drive with no weight to help you hook up. Not gonna happen, GI.

my thoughts exactly, a turboback catback? sounds fancy, wish I had one. Ummm ... guys, a catback is an exhaust system from the catalytic coverter back. And a "turbo" exhaust is just a baffled muffler with fewer baffles than most OEM mufflers. But a 3" exhaust on a ricer 4-banger is pretty lame. The thing can't make any torque with that setup.

Try blocking off half or two-thirds of the radiator with heavy cardboard and see if that makes a difference. Connecticut doesn't get nearly as cold as where you are, but even around here a lot of trucks and school buses run grille jackets in the winter and keep them buttoned up most of the way.

My bad ... so many members have auto I fell into the trap of assuming. I guess let the gas take care of itself. Hold the brake, and let the clutch up partially just enough to torque the engine and slow the RPMs, but not enough to fully engage the clutch. You don't need to hold it there, you only want to "bump" it momentarily to see if the pipe will hit the cross member. As an alternate -- slip a thin piece of wood or something that's not "readily" combustible/meltable between the pipe and the cross member and try driving it. If the noise isn't there, you'll have a clue.

Somebody (FelPro?) makes a replacement RMS with a dual-lip wiper to address exactly this problem. If you see even a fait line on the crank surface that won't clean up, get the seal with the dual lips.

Congrats! :jump:

Remove the fuel pump relay. I would pull the spark plugs, squirt a bunch of light oil in there (like 0W20), and let it sit for a few days. Then squirt in a bit more, leave the plugs out, put a wrench on the bolt at the front of the crankshaft and see if you can spin the engine by hand. If so, spin it a few times by hand, squirt in some more oil, THEN use the starter to spin it a little faster. Be sure the oil pressure shows in the gauge (if there's a gauge) or that the light goes off if it has idiot lights. Then you can think about putting the spark plugs back in and trying to start it. Siphon the gas out of the tank. ALL of it. Put in fresh gas. Replace the fule filter. Then replace the relay and let the fuel pump try to move some new gas to the fuel rail.

As long as your name isn't Tiger Woods you're good to go ...

You don't have to unbolt anything. Just crawl under and eyeball it. Try a test: Keep your foot on the brake, put it in reverse, and touch the gas, forcing the engine to twist under torque. Listen for the clunk. If you hear it, repeat the procedure but have an assistant do the goosing the gas while you lie on the ground and watch where the exhaust pipe runs over the cross member. What can happen is that the resilient cushions in the tranny mount compress due to age, allowing the space between the exhaust pipe and the cross member to be reduced. When the engine twists, that can result in contact and a clunk or rattle.

Honda.

The HO does have the sender in the thermostat housing, but the stock 1989 sensor from the radiator tank won't fit the hole in a thermostat housing. And you can't use the HO sender, because the old sender is just an ON-OFF switch, but the new style is a variable resistor that sends actual data to the ECU and the ECU (on the HO system) in turn controls the aux fan. There are a few (a VERY few) senders that will fit the t-stat housing and that are just switches. And I don't remember what they are. IIRC, BLHTAZ had some info on that, so you might try searching with BLHTAZ as the user name and the terms of your choice for the search terms. Or just wire it to a toggle switch on the dashboard and control it manually.

You must own a much bigger bank than I do if you're thinking about an NV3550 conversion on an 88 Comanche. HOW much did you want to spend?

Could be a slightly compressed tranny mount allowing the exhast pipe to hit the crossmember. More likely is a worn bushing in the right lower control arm.

Ed Stevens on NAXJA long ago took the front springs out of a Cherokee and cycled the front axle through every configuration of motion possible, all the way to the bump stops, with 31x10.50-15s mounted on 15x7 Jeep rims. The only interference was the slight rubbing of the inside shoulder of the tire on the lower control arm at full steering lock. I had 31x10.50s on my '88 MJ and I ran them for awhile after I removed the lift. I am now running the same tires on my '88 XJ, which is the same in front and has smaller wheel wells in the back. As predicted by Ed's experiment, the only rubbing I have even encountered is the shoulder of the tire rubbing the LCA on tight turns. 15x8 rims would push the outboard side of the tire out by 1/2" to 3/4". Should not be a problem on the street but might be a bit of an issue if you go off-road and get the suspension really crossed up. 30x9.50s would probably not be a problem.

Not even close. CJ rims, for example, are 5 x 5-1/2. Full-size Cherokee/Wagoneer and J truck rims are 6 x 5 The WJ Grand Cherokee and whatever its successor is are 5 x 5 The new Liberty and the new Wrangler (whatever they call the one after the TJ) are also 5 x 5, I believe.

Dunno about anyone else, but I can't even SEE the ones you have in some funky color. All I see is a smudge of some funky color.

Some years ago, after I had worn out my welcome on the Connecticut autocross circuit making Corvettes look stupid by cleaning their clocks in a Javelin (actually, not to rag on 'Vettes, it was their drivers who were stupid, for thinking a vehicle with a HEAVY 427 was a suitable vehicle for a tight, twisty course set up in a parking lot), I used to run the New England hillclimb circuit. That isn't what you off-road types think. We ran on the paved access roads that lead to the tops of most of the big ski mountains, in the summer when the roads were open and not being used. So I went to one in northern Vermont, at Bolton Valley. I don't remember how long that course was -- 3 miles, maybe? It's not a race, it's a time trial -- one car at a time, against the clock. Practice on Friday and Saturday, timed runs on Sunday. So on my second practice run I get a green flag and floor it. I was running a 290 then, and the Bolton Valley access road was straighter than most. There was really only one corner on the whole mountain I couldn't take flat out in 4th gear. So off I go, have a decent run, get to the top and slow down to go into the pit area -- and I see steam coming out of the engine room. LOTS of steam. Uh, oh. Turns out the RPMs when I wound out in first gear off the starting line blew one of the small heater hoses. Mind you, they had corner workers at ALL the corners, and they were all in contact by radio. Do you reckon anybody would have flagged me down and told me I was screaming up a mountain with the peddle to the floor and NO COOLANT? Oh, hell no. By a minor miracle the engine didn't seize up. After letting it cool for several hours, I replaced the hose, refilled the coolant, and it started right up. But ... it had gotten hot enough to score the cylinder walls, because after that the compression was in the toilet and it burned oil badly. That was my cue to build a 343 engine and plug it in. I never found quite the ideal cam for that 343, but it was a nice engine anyway. I took an FTD in a time trial at Lime Rock with that engine. But that's another story.

Oh, should I buy it? What transmission is in it? I bet he just looked under it and saw a number and gave it to me. Buy it for what? Do you need a transmission, or a transfer case? If you need a transmission, don't buy a transfer case.

I don't understand your thinking. Haven't you ever heard of the theory that you should ALWAYS hack on the cheapest part first? I lower control arm (or two) is a helluva lot cheaper than a unibody chassis. Instead of paying the shop beaucoup $$$ to mangle your chassis, why not just pay them to narrow the control arms to MJ width? K.I.S.S.

The YJ 231 is clocked slightly different, but not "wrong." My '88 MJ Chief with AX-15 and 231 came to me equipped with a YJ tranny and transfer case. The doofus left theYJ transfer case shifter and butchered the floor to make it work, but that was just cutting a hole for the lever. Doesn't appear that any "massaging" of the tranny tunnel was needed to allow for the clocking. It might vary slightly by vehicle but the worse case would be a couple of taps with a hammer.

It might help if you'd tell us what year your truck is. Assuming a 4.0L engine, the Renix years were 1987 thru 1990. The AX-15 transmission started showing up midway into the 1989 model year. Midway through the 1989 model year was also when the C101 connector under the hood disappeared, so if your truck is a 1987 through early 1989, a late '89 or '90 would have the AX-15 tranny but the wiring harness would not be a direct plug-n-play replacement (unless you replace the complete harness).

An MJ with a 4.2L?