Eagle

That one should do the job for you.

Are you certain the tank is leaking? Seems more often the leaks are where the two metal lines go through the fuel pump mounting flange.

I apologize up front, but this bugs me. Those gauges have numbers so the actual oil pressure can be read and discussed. What's the point of saying "mid-point" when there's a mark at the mid-point and the number 40? Halfway from the mid-point to pegged is 60 psi -- which isn't exceptionally high considering that most XJs and MJs (other than those with problems) typically run about 55 psi at highway speed. Why not just report the number? Curiously, I've noticed that people on this board routinely report temperature readings as actual numbers, when there is no way on this Earth they could get those numbers from the temp gauge. The oil pressure gauge is calibrated linearly. The temp gauge is not. And the temp gauge only has three numbers on it. On the temp gauge, it WOULD be appropriate to report "halfway between 100 and 210," because I don't think anyone knows what actual temperature that position on the dial represents. Why are we ignoring numbers that mean something, but reporting numbers that can't possibly be accurate or correct? I don't get it.

Simple test. Jack up the right front wheel. See if you can turn it by hand. If so, the disconnect isn't locked. If the transfer case shifts into low range (meaning the crawl speed is appropriate for low range), then adjustment of the linkage is not the problem.

What does yours look like? I have the hulk of an '86 XJ here that's about to be cut up for scrap value. I don't feel any deep emotional attachment to the steering column shaft.

Well, I reckon that's what we all figured. So obviously there would be no point in replacing with another idiot light cluster. From mid-87 thru 90 the full gauge cluster with tachometer was standard in the Laredo and Limited levels, and the tach was optional in the Pioneer and Chief levels (they had the gauges, but no tach). Jeep sold a LOT of Cherokees in those years, mostly in the higher trim levels, so you shouldn't have a hard time finding one.

Any glass shop can put the new style rubber trim on when installing a replacement windshield. But ... it is NOT a seal. The seal is still the fat bead of sealant that the glass gets pressed into. The rubber trim is just that ... trim.

I wouldn't worry. If the oil pressure was high (i.e. good) before, going to a heavier oil would logically result in higher pressures. Since the factory spec used to be 10W30, you can probably assume that's what was in it. So a quality 15W40 should be expected to be a bit higher across the board. FWIW, the factory oil pressure spec is 13 psi minimum (no maximum stated) at idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. Most of the XJ/MJ engines produced around 66 psi at highway speed on 10W30 oil when new. 40 weight would produce more. But engines have tolerances, and it's possible you have a nice, tight one that doesn't suffer oil pressure problems.

Absolutely. Grind off the rust. Coat with POR-15. Hire a professional to install the new windshield.

To repeat: It's tough to give useful advice in a vacuum. You haven't given us any information to work with.

I agree with Geonovast. It sounds like you don't have the axle disconnect ... connected. Jack up all four wheels Run it in 4WD. See if the front driveshaft is turning. If you can't jack up all four wheel, put it into 4WD and in gear (any gear). Motor off. Jack up the front wheels and see if you can turn the wheels. If so, crawl under and see if the driveshaft is turning with the wheels. If not, try to turn the driveshaft by hand. If the driveshaft isn't turning but the wheels are, you didn't engage the axle disconnect properly. You may have accidently shimmed it into the disconnected position rather than the connected position.

WHY? The 2.8L is a 6-cylinder. The 4.0L is a 6-cylinder. They make the same number of ignition pulses per revolution. Recalibration is only needed when using a 4-cyl tach with a 6-cyl engine, or a 6-cyl tach with a 4-cyl engine. You guys are making this FAR more difficult than it is. All he needs is to use the old cluster with the old speedo cable into the "new" transfer case and he's done. Now ... How do I know this works? Because my friend in Greece had a 1984 XJ 4-banger that originally came from the U.S. He liked the style of the newer (1988-1990) gauges better and he found a cluster out of a 1989 Comanche 4.0L (in Greece, mind you -- abandoned). He dropped the '89 cluster into the '84 XJ and all the electrics worked. He used the potentiometer to calibrate the tach against a hand-held idle tach, and the job was done. He Jerry-rigged a clip to hold the old speedo cable into the newer style speedo head, and that was that. Don't over-think things.

Yes but the speedometer cable is different. Also, the '86 cluster doesn't have the adjustable potentiometer, so you have to use a 4-cyl cluster with a 4-cyl engine, or a 6-cyl cluster with a 6-cyl engine.

No. Why would you swap IN a cluster with idiot lights? What do you have now, and why do you want to replace it? The usual reason for swapping out the cluster is to get rid of the idiot lights and get a cluster with full gauges, and usually a tach (although around '88 the Pioneer level had real gauges for oil pressure, water temp and voltage, but did NOT have a tachometer). What you want is a gauge cluster for a late '87 thru '90 XJ or MJ with full gauges. If you want a tach, be sure it has the tach. In that range of years (like the one in the photo above from mfpdm) the tach has a potentiometer that can be adjusted for 4-cylinder or 6-cylinder, so which vehicle it came out of isn't important.

Are you saying that 4x4 doesn't work at all, or that low range doesn't engage? If it's only low range, I'd say the lever needs to be adjusted. There's a neutral position between 4-Hi and 4-Lo ... perhaps your shifter isn't getting beyond the neutral detent. Have you put it up on four jack stands and tried running it with the wheels off the ground to verify that the front wheel don't turn?

Do you have a wiring diagram? I don't think you understand what you're working with. There is no way one wire can "control" both taillights and stop and turn functions. That's the ground wire. The other wires are the power wires, and THEY are what control the lights. Are you certain that little thingie is a resistor? I have no idea how LEDs work, but I don't see any need for a resistor. Could that be a diode? To ensure that current only flows one way?

This is bad advice for two reasons: 1) Electrically, lights (especially high wattage auxiliary lights) should always be run through a relay to alleviate burning out the switch contacts. You also neglected to mention a fuse. 2) Legally, fog lights have to be wired so they can ONLY operate with the parking lights or low-beam headlights on. They MUST turn off automatically when the high beams are activated.

I still can't understand why Spielberg hasn't done a movie of the Dragonriders of Pern. Crikey, there are enough of the books by now to be good for at LEAST a trilogy. Back when I started reading the books I even had the cast picked out: F'lar ==> Tom Selleck F'nor ==> Sam Eliot Lessa ==> Lesley Ann Warren Masterharper ==> Kenny Rogers Mastersmith Fanderel ==> Hulk Hogan All of those folks are too old for the roles now, and I have envisioned them in those roles for so long that I can't imagine anyone else playing them. Spielberg, where were you when we needed you?

I'm not being sanctimonious, I'm trying to help you not waste your money. I'm an architect/engineer by education and profession. We use flow calculations on a regular basis. I know that bends add resistance to flow, but the bottom line is that a bigger pipe carries more stuff with less resistance. You can't more than double the cross-sectional area of the pipe(s) without significantly reducing the backpressure. If you are set on the dual outlet system, I would make the two outlet pipes no larger than 2" or maybe even 1-3/4" each.

You're joking, right? Let's see -- if your current muffler is a 2-1/4" inlet and outlet, the cross-sectional area is 3.98 square inches. A 2-1/2" muffler has an area of 4.91 square inches. That's an increase of 23 percent -- at the inlet and through the muffler. But then you want to make it a dual outlet with two 2-1/2" exhaust pipes. So the outlet area will be 9.82 square inches, which is an increase of 5.84 square inches or 147 percent. The 2.5L engine has a much "peakier" and narrower torque band than the 4.0L. Much more than the 4.0L the 2.5L needs backpressure to run efficiently. I don't know how you figure you don't "see" much drop in backpressure, but if you don't I respectfully suggest you need to have your eyes checked. It's your truck and your money, but I think you're making a mistake. And it won't get you the sound you want. The only way to make it sound good would be if the header had two independent outlets, each serving two cylinders. That way you could run two independent pipes right to the tailpipe and the exhaust pulses would be separated. The system you are considering is NOT a dual exhaust.

If you changed the hub, you had to have removed the axle retaining nut. It's supposed to be torqued to 175 foot-pounds. Is it possible that you skipped this step and that the outer axle isn't properly mated to the hub? Also, if you replaced a hub, are you certain you installed the correct hub? The hubs changed, I think in 1990. They are not interchangeable. If you used the wrong hub for a '92, that might result in making it appear the axle "got longer." (I'm not sure on that -- it has been a long time since I had the two style side-by-side for comparison.)

IMHO you are making a huge and expensive mistake. The stock system is 2-1/4". I once allowed my brother (who ran a Speedy Muffler shop at the time) to talk me into a 2-1/2" turbo muffler and cat-back system for the '88 XJ. It sounded great -- but the gas mileage dropped by 2 or 3 MPG and the performance at any legal speed suffered noticeably. By putting in a dual 2-1/2" system you'll be reducing back-pressure still more, which is going to cost you even more torque and fuel efficiency. That was the only time in my life I ever looked forward to an exhaust system rusting out so I could justify going back to the stock configuration. Oh, Gawd! Just noticed you have a 4-banger. Your stock system should be a 2". You are going to be VERY unhappy with what happens to your performance with this new setup you have in mind. And there is simply no way to make a 4-cylinder sound like a big block V8, not even if you had true dual exhaust -- which you won't, pushing it through a single cat.

Can't be done without destroying the shifter. My dealer is an old-line Jeep dealer -- they were AMC/Jeep since before the introduction of the XJ. (In fact, they go all the way back to Hudson.) The shop foreman told me that there once was a (very expensive) factory tool to separate those two halves. Over the course of about 20 years the shop used it exactly one time, so when they needed space in the tool room for tools to work on the newer vehicles ... it got tossed. It IS two pieces and you could probably mount it in a big vise and pound it apart -- but you probably won't get it back together again.

I have read ... but not tried ... that putting a rag in the gears between the ring and the pinion and then turning it will force the carrier and ring gear to walk out.

Just engage it and shim it in the engaged position. Send $350 to me and I saved you ten bucks. You're welcome.