Eagle

They are unique to the Comanche. They are approximately two inches longer and two inches higher than XJ rear flares. And I don't know of any source for reproductions.

May I quote you the next time my wife bothers? "But Dear, Squeegy says ..." Yep, that'll work.

Nothing could possibly be worse than the OEM carb that came on the 2.8L. If you don't wish to buy a new maniforld, go with the Weber. A friend of mine in Greece had one on his XJ and he was very satisfied with it.

I am well aware that the 2.5L I-4 has the same bell housing bolt pattern as the GM V-6. But "bolt up" to the bell housing is not the same as "bolt into" the vehicle. Putting a 2.8L (or 3.4L) V-6 into an MJ that had a 2.5L I-4 would require changing the entire underhood wiring harness, exhaust system, motor mounts, fuel delivery system, ... That's not my idea of "bolt in." Just because something can be done does not mean it should be done.

As 88pioneer has mentioned, cooling will be your problem. Lots of people have shoved Chevy small blocks into XJ and MJs. They ALL have cooling issues. Do what you wish, but the Jeep 4.0L engine is a far better engine than a Chevy small block for Jeep-like purposes. I would rebuild the Jeep engine, either in stock displacement or as a stroker.

The 1986 Selec-Trac is a very different animal from the 1987 and newer Selec-Trac. The old NP 228/229 box is a very heavy, very strong transfer case. It is probably overkill for a Cherokee or Comanche. The difference between the 228 and the 229 is that one used a viscous coupling for the full-time mode and the other used a mechanical differential ... and I can never remember which was which. They key part is that the 228/229 did not have a locked (part-time) mode in 4WD-High Range. When you shifted into 4WD-Hi, you had AWD -- with differentiation. IIRC, the only locked range was 4WD-Lo. The controls were funky, too. There was a lever, and there was a separate vacuum switch. They had to be operated in a specific sequence. I once owned an '84 XJ Wagoneer that had that system, but I never had it registered and I don't have any recollection of exactly how the system worked.

The 2001 block may not have a boss for the knock sensor. If it does, I don't think it will be tapped for it. Check the number on the head casting. It was around 2000 that Jeep started using a head that has a reputation for cracking. There was a recent thread here in which someone provided the casting number to watch out for.

Fenders are easy to replace, and in the overall scheme of the universe not that expensive. Rocker panels are a bit more work, but also readily available. The floor is the big issue, and since the floors seem to usually rust out from the inside due to undetected leaks even a nice southern truck is no guarantee that you won't be replacing the floors. Comanches are NOT growing on trees, and the ones that are out there are not getting any better as they age, so if you find one that's of interest, my advice would be, "Buy it." Check the frame immediately behind the cab. I know of two or three that have broken there. I wouldn't let some rust there kill a sale, but I would use it to negotiate price, and I would derust and reinforce that area immediately upon purchase if there's any deterioration.

Huh? AFAIK Chrysler recommended GL-3 for the AX-15 right up until they changed to motor oil, and they did that basically because it's nearly (if not completely) impossible to find GL-3 gear lube. And what's this about the AW4? When did they ever recommend anything for that besides Dexron/Mercon? Related question (sort of): Has anyone tried that Pennzoil Synchromesh manual transmission lube in an AX-15 ... or, for that matter, in a BA 10/5? It's formulated for the NVG 3550 and 4500 trannies, but why would it not work in other manual transmissions? Chrysler recommended GL-5 lubes for the AX-15 at one point.. they later rescinded it as they didn't like replacing synchros in warranty... There are owners manuals out there with the bad recommendation in them.. I'm very surprised you never read any of the info covering that on Naxja. In Oct. 2008 Chrysler changed the recommendation for the AW-4 from Dex/Merc to ATF+4.. for ostensibly the same reason as changing the GL recommendation..They no longer wanted to purchase Dex/Merc for their service centers. Ninja Edit... Did some searching of the Naxja archives.. Found a thread from 2003... Eagle.. you posted this...May 1, 2003 3) According to DaimlerChrysler, the AX-4, AX-5 and AX-15 should use the Mopar product meeting spec MS9684, which is rated as a 75W90 GL-3 lubricant. HOWEVER, according to the engineer at Pennzoil (who claims to have all the tech bulletins from DaimlerChysler, that product should be used only in the AX-series trannies 1998 and newer,and the older ones should use 75W90 GL-5 gear lube (which is what the '94 FSM calls for. But the question there is whether the earlier lube recommendation was incorrect, or if they changed the material used in the synchro rings in the newer transmissions. I remember that conversation with the Pennzoil engineer. That was when I called them to ask if their then-new Synchromesh gear lube was suitable for use in the AX-15. He declined to offer an opinion. He said the then-new juice was engineered for the NVG 3550/4500 family of transmissions and that he could not offer an opinion regarding its use in any other box.

Huh? AFAIK Chrysler recommended GL-3 for the AX-15 right up until they changed to motor oil, and they did that basically because it's nearly (if not completely) impossible to find GL-3 gear lube. And what's this about the AW4? When did they ever recommend anything for that besides Dexron/Mercon? Related question (sort of): Has anyone tried that Pennzoil Synchromesh manual transmission lube in an AX-15 ... or, for that matter, in a BA 10/5? It's formulated for the NVG 3550 and 4500 trannies, but why would it not work in other manual transmissions?

Under a 1990 Cherokee, it will be an AX-15 if the engine is a 4.0L and it will be an AX-5 if the engine is a 2.5L. Aside from the AX-5 being weaker than the AX-15, the input shaft is smaller in diameter (which no doubt contributes to its being weaker) and may be a different length.

Not the NVG3550 ... but it's unlikely you'll find that in an MJ.

Rubberized undercoating is for separating customers from money. It doesn't adhere tightly to the metal, but it is cohesive enough that when moisture gets behind it the moisture stays trapped so it can continue to attack the metal for a long time. POR-15 bonds well to bare metal and provides excellent protection against rust. However, POR-15 is not UV resistant, and that's why it should be topcoated with a couple of good coats of some decent enamel that will effectively protect the POR-15 from daylight.

POR-15, and then overcoat with two or three coats of black Rustoleum enamel.

Ah, yes, the AMA. Otherwise known as "Doctors looking out for doctors." That's like asking the police to investigate when a police officer shoots a minister. (Oops, that one's been done, too. Guess what? The cops walked. What a surprise.)

2-1/2" from the header to the catalytic converter, 2-1/2" catalytic converter, necks down to 2-1/4" between the cat and the muffler, 2-1/4" muffler and tailpipe.

No they aren't. In fact, if you even get to see a real doctor, you're ahead of the curve. My wife has been to two doctors over the past year or so: one is a general internist, the other was an orthopaedist for when she broke her wrist. At both offices, she never got to see the doctor with whom she (allegedly) had an appointment. She was seen by PAs (physician's assistants). In the case of the wrist, the PA did everything from reading the x-rays to setting the break to splinting it to all the follow-up appointments. If you ever do get to see a doctor, he/she won't spend any more time with you than minimally necessary. Informed consent? Nope -- they give you a prescription without ever informing you of all those nasty side effects that are mentioned in the television commercials (you know, the minor problems such as "If you take this medication when you aren't completely, totally, 100 percent healthy it might kill you") or asking if you understand the risks and are willing to accept them. But I'll bet when you leave the office you'll be asked to sign a document affirming that the doctor explained all the risks to you. When at a doctor's office, never EVER sign anything without reading every word. Some years ago I went to an outpatient surgery clinic associated with a major hospital for an elective surgery. I was given a paper to sign that the receptionist blandly told me was "just permission to release the information to my insurance company." Well ... that was the first paragraph. There were two pages after that, affirming that the doctor had explained all sorts of things to me (he hadn't); that I had been advised of my options (I hadn't); that I understood the risks involved with general anasthesia (there wasn't supposed to BE any general anesthesia for this procedure); and several other things, NONE of which had taken place but which I was expected to sign a paper affirming that they had taken place. Then they asked me who was driving me home afterward. I said, "I am." "Oh no, you can't drive. You'll be under the influence of the anesthesia for several hours." I explained to the receptionist, then to the intake nurse, then to the anesthesiologist that I had not agreed to anesthesia, that I had not been told it was to be used, and that I had nobody to drive me home even if I was willing to be "put under." They all said to take it up with the surgeon. When he finally showed up, he asked what all the fuss was about. I told him I didn't want anesthesia, he hadn't told me it was necessary (in fact, he had specifically told me in his office the procedure would be done under a local), and that I had driven myself to the hospital and had nobody to pick me up. He copped an attitude and said, "Well, I always do this procedure with general anesthesia, so either you find someone to drive you, take a cab, or we don't do it." "That's easy," I said. "Have a nice day, 'cause we're not doing it." I got dressed and walked out. At the time, my sister worked in a different hospital up-state. She put me in touch with a doctor there in the same specialty. He said he always did that procedure with just a local, so I signed on with him, we did it, I drove myself home, and that was that. Watch out for doctors. They lie.

I know it's metric. Pretty sure it's 10mm but I don't recall the length.

You go back to the 4th post in this thread and look at the link Geonovast provided.

Balance issues aside, I seriously doubt a 4.3L clutch would even fit into the (much) smaller 2.8L bellhousing. The 2.8L only uses a 9" clutch, IIRC.

Synthetic is reported to make a difference in the Jeep trannies, too. BUT ... you have to be sure, especially with an AX-15, to get one that doesn't have sulpher in it as part of the extreme pressure additive pack. I believe Redline and Amsoil are okay in this regard (not sure about Amsoil), but many others are not.

But ... what?

Not unlike a friend of mine. Suggestion: After the Comanche Club tour, you (if you care to become the agent) or some member of the family should join the AMC Owners Club. They hold a big national meet every year, as well as smaller regional meets. As with all car shows, the parts flea market is a major draw. I'm sure they could take those parts there in a rented truck and either sell everything as a collection, or sell things one-by-one and make a lot more money. The downside to selling individual parts is that they'll be difficult to price, and it would be unlikely to sell everything at one show unless the prices were set absurdly low.

Both the BA 10/5 Peugeot) and the AX-15 (Aisin Seiki) transmission, which are the two possible transmissions in your truck, are stubborn shifting into 2nd gear. Since you are 17 and new to manual transmissions, I'm going to guess that you are running the engine up to around 3500 or 4000 RPM and then trying to bang the shift as fast as you can. If I'm right -- stop doing that RIGHT NOW, before you blow the transmission. The Comanches are trucks, not drag race cars. There is a "sweet spot" for making that shift. For the upshift (going from first to second) the natural shift point is between 2000 and 2300 RPM -- for both of those transmissions. And you don't "bang" the shift like Big Daddy Garlits (of drag racing fame). You shift like a little old lady (especially the 1-to-2 shift) and allow the synchronizers to do their job.

Ummm ... he wrote that he has an '88 MJ. It could not have a V6 (unless it was swapped in by an especially masochistic previous owner). An '88 will have (sorry, "should" have) either a 2.5L I-4 or a 4.0L I-6.