Eagle

If you can't shift while the engine is running, then you DON'T have great release. It may feel like you have good peddle, but you obviously don't have release. Are you certain you didn't put the disc in with the wrong side facing the flywheel?

You seem to be under some confusion. For a 1994 XJ, the rear axle may not be a Dana-Spicer. IF[/i] it is a Dana 35, it is a Dana-Spicer. Chrysler never manufactured any Dana axles. However, by 1994 Chrysler was also using their own 8-1/4" axle in the rear of many XJs. Both are C-clip axles, both are 27-spline and have similar shaft diameters. However, the Chrysler axle has larger tubes and a stiffer housing, making it overall a somewhat stronger axle than the Dana 35.

HEY! Dinosaurs are people, too, ya know. It ain't easy being a member of an extinct species.

Dunno where you live but around here that would get you a ticket for tires extending beyond body. That's what my '88 looked like when I bought it, and I got ticketed within a couple of weeks after I registered it and put it on the road.

But an '87 had the 10" drums. Chrysler switched to their 9" rear brakes beginning in 1990. I don't have a 1990 FSM but I do have a '94. It shows several exploded views that don't show the wheel cylinders, so it's unclear if the push rods were omitted or not used. The view of a wheel cylinder mounted to the backing plate DOES show the push rods. Ah! Another view, of the wheel cylinder assembly (only) for the 9" brakes shows something they call the "link," that seems to be the same as the push rod but looks like it has a threaded inner end to perhaps thread into the piston(?). Dunno - I haven't yet worked on one with the 9" brakes. Wheel cylinders are wheel cylinders. They do not include the push rods/links. Those usually come in the small parts kits that include the hold-down and return springs.

I don't see any reason at all why that could possibly work.

2" is all you need. I really REALLY wish you had asked before you started trimming, because in terms of running 31" tires you haven't gained anything at all, but you've ruined another Comanche. Just get a pair of 2" front coil spacers and a 2" (or 1-1/2") full-length AAL for the rear and you're done. Be sure to have the front end aligned after the lift has been installed.

When the power window regulator died on my wife's 2000 XJ, I replaced the part myself (at over $100 for the part, I couldn't afford to pay shop rates to install it). First try, I somehow got the glass outside the channels and it was scraping when I tried to close the window. I had to take it all apart and do it over to get the window running smoothly. I'd suggest taking a close look at how the glass sits relative to the channels, and then compare to the other door, which (I assume and hope) operates correctly. The fact that the passenger door lock also doesn't work is a strong clue that someone has been inside that door ... someone who did not know what they were doing.

You need them.

True, as far as flow rates and volumetric efficiency are concerned. But Renix heads aren't programmed to self-destruct at 90,000 miles.

Not really crazy. Perfectly predictable, in fact. The Renix system uses a knock sensor, so the engine can run at the maximum degree of ignition advance possible at all times. The knock sensor listens for "ping" and retards the timing only when necessary. Chrysler wanted to save a buck per vehicle, so they eliminated the knock sensor. They obviously didn't want 9and couldn't have) a bunch of XJs and MJs blowing the tops out of the pistons on a regular basis, so they engineered the ignition advance curve to always be sufficiently retarded that it will never ping. Which is fine ... except that it means the system can therefore NEVER operate at optimum advance, which is what delivers maximum fuel economy. Newer is not always better. Sometimes newer is just ... not as old.

The sliding rear window was a LOT more common than buckets. If possible, buy the window and both sets of seats. Remember, the seats themselves, not only the pedestals, are different from XJs. You can mount XJ buckets on MJ seat pedestals, but if the XJ buckets have the "rocking chair" feature they will sit much too high in the MJ. And if they're from a 4-door, they won't tip forward. The best bucket for an MK is from an MJ. Even if the upholstery and padding are shot, the frames are unique, and you can put XJ uphostery onto the MJ frames.

Are you using new hoses, or junkyard take-offs?

The end portion of the window riser cable (the "snake") is stripped. You need a replacement mechanism

Definitely need pics. I've replaced multiple alternators in various XJs and MJs, and in the old days I've torn down and rebuilt alternators myself ... and I don't have any idea WTF your post is talking about. The photos do not show what has to be loosened or changed.

The Auto Zone link makes you reselect the vehicle, but does take you to the part. Unfortuntately, the photo shows a sender with a pigtail, so it may well be the wrong part. NAPA Online has it. You have to search for "Temperature Sender," not "sensor." The one for the gauge is Echlin #ECH TS6053

Short answer is ... I don't think so. The '86 MJ (and 84 - 86 XJ) used an NP 228 or 229 transfer case for Selec-Trac. It's a completely different animal than the NP/NVG 242 used from 1987 to the end of both vehicles. I have the '86 factory service manual. It mentions the vacuum motor, in describing how the transfer case functions, but there is NOT A SINGLE WORD about it in the tear-down and reassemble part of the manual.

Did you remove the spark plugs? Did you squirt a LOT of PB Blaster into the cylinders a day or two before you tried to turn it?

JoAnn Fabrics ( a chain of sewing, fabric and crafts stores, at least regional if not national) has both headliner material and the correct adhesive. I've also seen headliner kits at Pep Boys, but the fabric from JoAnn Fabrics is at least 50% heavier.

That's not the correct procedure. Correct procedure is as BORDENCOMANCHE spelled it out. "Pumping" the peddle is not necessary, and is actually counter-productive because it introduces air bubbles into the brake fluid. Since the purpose of bleeding the system is to remove air, this is not a good thing. You don't press the peddle down and then open the bleeder. As BORDENCOMANCHE noted, the underneath guy opens the bleeder, then the inside guy depresses the peddle. Peddle is held down until the bleeder is closed, then the peddle is allowed to return, and the process is repeated. The peddle should be depressed moderately slowly, at a uniform speed. The inside guy should not "stomp" on the peddle and try to floor it in an instant.

Define what you mean by "crappy." The clutch hose I blew was in my '88 Cherokee. IIRC, it blew in 2002 (might have been 2003), so the vehicle was at that time at least 14 years old and had well over 200,000 miles on it. It was my fault -- I had replaced the clutch, master and slave a year or two previous (at 204,000 miles), but didn't think to replace the hose. Yes, you can do as you suggest. You could do the same thing for the flex hoses serving the front and rear brakes. Same type of hose. Do you consider those to be "crappy," too, simply because they are flex hoses rather than a coiled metal tube all the way?

Clutch fork? He has a 1989 4.0L. The slave cylinder is internal and there is no fork.

Man-eating catfish? REALLY?

If you are doing it exactly as you wrote, that is not correct. The correct procedure is for the wrench man to open the bleeder, then the peddle man SLOWLY depresses the pedal. When the peddle hits bottom, it is held there until the wrench man closes the bleeder, and only then is the peddle released. Once the peddle has come back up, it can be pumped once or twice (again, SLOWLY) with the bleeder closed, the peddle is then brought back to the top, and the sequence is repeated.

Billy the Exterminator If I called for a professional pest remover and some dude with spiky hair and a Goth costume showed up, I'd either shoot him on the spot or call the cops. "Gnarly, Dude!"