Eagle

I'd like to see a photo of one installed. From the ad on the web site, to me it looks pretty fugly. Plus ... how do you weld the inner fender liner/wheelwell to a fiberglass fender?

Who is "they"? To whom does the land belong?

The rim size should be marked on the outside, next to the valve stem.

Of course you have crappy braking. With a lift and the rear valve still in place, you have no rear brakes. Doesn't matter how well you bleed them, the height sensing valve shuts off the rear brakes when the bed isn't loaded down. I am in the camp that says "dump it." You'll have full braking to the rear, all the time. If you find that the rears lock up prematurely, then you splice in a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve in the line to the rear and set it where you like it. You can always dial in more rear brakes manually if you tow or hail a heavy load. I do not advise just teeing the two rear lines together. Functionally that works. But it means you have twice as much brake line running from front to rear, twice as much opportunity for rust and burst lines, and it serves no useful purpose. I pulled out both lines, and ran a single new steel line directly from the front junction block to the top of the hose at the rear axle.

That was my thought. As the little killer 'bot said in that movie, Short Circuit -- "Need more data."

Time out. Are you asking about a 1988 MJ, the one in your signature? If so, please clue us in on what changes you have made to the brakes, because what you are describing is NOT a 1988 Comanche master cylinder.

The factory lights were rectangular, don't recall if they were 5x7 or larger. I think larger. And they were not "fog" lights. Fog lights are mounted as low as possible and they have a very flat cut-off and wide, short range pattern. Off-road lights are flood lights.

Then the gauge is broken, because the actual physical range (in terms of a clock) only goes from approximately 10:00 o'clock to 2:00 o'clock. I've never seen a factory gauge on which the needle would fall not only below the "0" mark, but physically below the 9:30 or 10:00 o'clock position on the dial. It sounds like the needle was already messed up on the gauge before you started trying to calibrate it.

The idiot light doesn't come on unless the oil pressure is below something like 7 psi. If your gauge is showing anywhere near 40, it wouldn't activate the idiot light. It would also be within spec. The factory spec is minimum 13 psi at idle, 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. Most NEW XJ and MJ engines typically ran about 50 to 55 psi (warm) at highway speed. 40 psi would not be at all unusual for an older engine, and would not be cause for immediate panic.

When I disconnect the oil pressure sender wire, I noticed that the gauge pegged to the right. I didn't try it with the coolant temperature sender. I will try this when I get home from work. Still need to figure out the fuel gauge....it's just completely dead. The crude "go - no go" test for the fuel gauge is the same as the others. Unplug the connector with the ignition on -- that's an open circuit (infinite resistance) -- the gauge should peg to the right. Jumper the connector to a good ground, bypassing the sender -- that's zero resistance, the gauge should bottom out to the left. (I may have the left and right reversed, I can never remember without looking it up).

The 1990 was the last year for the Renix system. 1991 was the first year for the Chrysler HO system. They are completely different.

No, do NOT jack it up. Park it on a level, paved surface. Inside a garage is ideal, IF the floor isn't sloped to a drain or toward the door. Get an inexpensive angle finder like they sell at Lowe's or Home Depot. Set that against the weight ring on your rim so the angle finder is vertical, and read the camber. Read at the front edge of the rim and the rear edge, since the angle finder won't be tall enough to catch the rim at the vertical centerline, and average the readings. Repeat for the other side. Camber can be corrected with offset ball joints, but they are pricey and a replacement axle might not cost any more than buying and installing two offset ball joints. Why start replacing parts before you know what/where the problem is?

The gauge is held into the cluster by two (or three?) screws. If you can find just a gauge, you can certainly swap just that, but in reality it's probably easier to find a complete cluster than to find a single gauge, and not much more expensive. Why did you decide a gauge adjustment was needed? Unless you knew by checking with a calibrated mechanical gauge that your oil pressure is higher, 40 might have been the correct reading.

:agree: Exactly. I was seduced by the then-new Quadra-Drive system. That was also a disaster, and Chrysler changed over to a completely different system (also called Quadra-Drive) after two years (three,maybe?). To repeat: DO NOT BUY A 1999 WJ WITH THE 4.7

First thing to understand is that the 4.7L is at heart a passenger car engine. It has poor low-end torque and a high torque peak. I made the mistake of buying a '99 WJ with the 4.7. The lack of towing power was a HUGE disappointment. The engine doesn't start to do anything until over 3500 RPM, above which it cranks. But I'm a Jeep guy -- I don't confuse my Jeep with a Japanese motorcycle. Others will disagree but I think the 4.7L is a very bad engine. Mine died after 14,000 miles and Chrysler bought it back to stop me going lemon law with it. A friend went against my advice and bought a 2001 or 2002 Overland with the 4.7 HO engine. His just blew up and it cost him several thousand dollars to have it rebuilt. If she MUST buy a WJ and it MUST be a 4.7, DO NOT under any circumstances buy a 1999. Many of the problems were corrected by the 2000 model year, but a 2001 would be the earliest I would want to take a chance on.

Your 91 is OBD-1, the '97 is OBD-II. Not sure, but I think you have to swap over the electronics with the engine. Or use the sensors and such from your eld engine on the new one.

I bought everything from my local Jeep dealer. I haven't taken the flywheel out of the box, so I have no idea if it's flat or contoured. When the original slave went on the '88, I discussed the replacement with my friend who is a retired Jeep master mechanic and service manager. He pointed out that the original parts had lasted 12 years and 204,000 miles, so why would I want to risk using something else? That made good sense to me then, and it still does today. People still complain about new clutch master and slave cylinders that go bad after 6 months. The "new" one I put in the '88 XJ now has 83,000 miles on it and it has been in for 10 years. I think my friend's advice was solid.

Yeah, they are "just wheels" that haven't been made for over 20 years. Not a big deal if all you want is something to roll around on, but if you want the truck to look correct for the year and model, there's no substitute for having the correct wheels.

I'm only reporting what friends in NAXJA have told me. When I repleced the clutch in my '88 XJ, I did it at 204,000 miles because the slave cylinder let go and it didn't make sense not to do the whole job. But the old clutch didn't look any more worn than the new one so I didn't touch the flywheel. Thus, I have no first-hand experience in the matter, but between the FSM and what others have gone through, when I do the clutch in the '87 MJ this month ... I have a new flywheel in the box waiting to be installed.

The Jeep FSM specifically advises NOT to resurface the flywheels because they have a "proprietary contour." (Whatever that means) Every single person I have heard of who has had an XJ or MJ flywheel resurfaced has had clutch problems afterwards.

4.0L 5-speed ==> 3.07 gears.

Nope. The bell housing-to-block bolt pattern is different.

The 2 door and 4 doors flares are identical... And they are also shorter than MJ flares by about 2" to 3", in both length of opening (front to back, at bottom of opening) and height. It doesn't seem to matter how often this comes up, and how many times we point out that the 2-door and 4-door rear flares are the same, the myth that 2-door XJ flares fit the MJ persists. There doesn't seem to be any way to put a stake through its heart.

See if the drums from an older Crown Vic will fit.

That's a new body style XJ. The flares are different.