Eagle

The 1990 was the last year for the Renix system. 1991 was the first year for the Chrysler HO system. They are completely different.

No, do NOT jack it up. Park it on a level, paved surface. Inside a garage is ideal, IF the floor isn't sloped to a drain or toward the door. Get an inexpensive angle finder like they sell at Lowe's or Home Depot. Set that against the weight ring on your rim so the angle finder is vertical, and read the camber. Read at the front edge of the rim and the rear edge, since the angle finder won't be tall enough to catch the rim at the vertical centerline, and average the readings. Repeat for the other side. Camber can be corrected with offset ball joints, but they are pricey and a replacement axle might not cost any more than buying and installing two offset ball joints. Why start replacing parts before you know what/where the problem is?

The gauge is held into the cluster by two (or three?) screws. If you can find just a gauge, you can certainly swap just that, but in reality it's probably easier to find a complete cluster than to find a single gauge, and not much more expensive. Why did you decide a gauge adjustment was needed? Unless you knew by checking with a calibrated mechanical gauge that your oil pressure is higher, 40 might have been the correct reading.

:agree: Exactly. I was seduced by the then-new Quadra-Drive system. That was also a disaster, and Chrysler changed over to a completely different system (also called Quadra-Drive) after two years (three,maybe?). To repeat: DO NOT BUY A 1999 WJ WITH THE 4.7

First thing to understand is that the 4.7L is at heart a passenger car engine. It has poor low-end torque and a high torque peak. I made the mistake of buying a '99 WJ with the 4.7. The lack of towing power was a HUGE disappointment. The engine doesn't start to do anything until over 3500 RPM, above which it cranks. But I'm a Jeep guy -- I don't confuse my Jeep with a Japanese motorcycle. Others will disagree but I think the 4.7L is a very bad engine. Mine died after 14,000 miles and Chrysler bought it back to stop me going lemon law with it. A friend went against my advice and bought a 2001 or 2002 Overland with the 4.7 HO engine. His just blew up and it cost him several thousand dollars to have it rebuilt. If she MUST buy a WJ and it MUST be a 4.7, DO NOT under any circumstances buy a 1999. Many of the problems were corrected by the 2000 model year, but a 2001 would be the earliest I would want to take a chance on.

Your 91 is OBD-1, the '97 is OBD-II. Not sure, but I think you have to swap over the electronics with the engine. Or use the sensors and such from your eld engine on the new one.

I bought everything from my local Jeep dealer. I haven't taken the flywheel out of the box, so I have no idea if it's flat or contoured. When the original slave went on the '88, I discussed the replacement with my friend who is a retired Jeep master mechanic and service manager. He pointed out that the original parts had lasted 12 years and 204,000 miles, so why would I want to risk using something else? That made good sense to me then, and it still does today. People still complain about new clutch master and slave cylinders that go bad after 6 months. The "new" one I put in the '88 XJ now has 83,000 miles on it and it has been in for 10 years. I think my friend's advice was solid.

Yeah, they are "just wheels" that haven't been made for over 20 years. Not a big deal if all you want is something to roll around on, but if you want the truck to look correct for the year and model, there's no substitute for having the correct wheels.

I'm only reporting what friends in NAXJA have told me. When I repleced the clutch in my '88 XJ, I did it at 204,000 miles because the slave cylinder let go and it didn't make sense not to do the whole job. But the old clutch didn't look any more worn than the new one so I didn't touch the flywheel. Thus, I have no first-hand experience in the matter, but between the FSM and what others have gone through, when I do the clutch in the '87 MJ this month ... I have a new flywheel in the box waiting to be installed.

The Jeep FSM specifically advises NOT to resurface the flywheels because they have a "proprietary contour." (Whatever that means) Every single person I have heard of who has had an XJ or MJ flywheel resurfaced has had clutch problems afterwards.

4.0L 5-speed ==> 3.07 gears.

Nope. The bell housing-to-block bolt pattern is different.

The 2 door and 4 doors flares are identical... And they are also shorter than MJ flares by about 2" to 3", in both length of opening (front to back, at bottom of opening) and height. It doesn't seem to matter how often this comes up, and how many times we point out that the 2-door and 4-door rear flares are the same, the myth that 2-door XJ flares fit the MJ persists. There doesn't seem to be any way to put a stake through its heart.

See if the drums from an older Crown Vic will fit.

That's a new body style XJ. The flares are different.

:agree:

A wire wheel will destroy them. They are aluminum, not steel. Head over to Auto Zone or Advance or Shucks and get a can of Aircraft Stripper. Use that to remove the peeling clearcoat. Then get some good aluminum polish (like Mother's, or even better the stuff they sell at commercial truck stops for the big rigs) and some 000 or 0000 steel wool and use that to polish the aluminum.

For reference, the Rancho catalog shows the SAME long AAL for the XJ and the MJ, and they claim 2-1/2" for both. That didn't make sense, so I called Rancho and spoke with a product engineer. She didn't have an answer so she put me on hold and went off to talk to a real engineer. When she came back she said the catalog listing is a misprint. It gives 2-1/2" in an XJ and 1" to 1-1/2" in an MJ.

No.

30x9.50s on those rims will not hit the flares, but they will rub the lower control arms.

The holes in the spring plates are already oblong, so they could use the same plates with either axle. All you need is the correct u-bolts. Keep in mind that XJ and MJ u-bolts are metric. The XJs used 12mm, the MJ used 14mm. Your local spring shop probably doesn't stock metric materials, so you'll need to use an SAE alternative. Technically, 9/16" would be the closest equivalent. I tinker with both XJ and MJs, so I've settled on using 1/2" u-bolts for everything. (Larger than 12mm, smaller than 14mm.)

I brought home a truck with no handle. It was easy to reach into the hole and pull the rods by hand -- no tools needed. FWIW, someone posted awhile ago that a handle for some other compact pickup (S10 maybe?) fits and is available through the various parts chains. Does anyone remember what the cross-listing was?

Y'all are missing the fact that it died while running. I think there's something more going on than a starter relay or solenoid.

The seal is a bead of urethane sealant. Are you looking for the trim gasket?

Keep in mind that the lever is pulled straight back from 2WD to 4PT to 4FT. Then the lever has to be pushed sideways, toward the tranny tunnel, before the lever can be pulled back to N and 4Lo. I've never watched from underneath while the shifter was run through the positions, but doesn't the lateral movement engage a different lever? Or is it only a detent to prevent accidently going farther than can be accomplished "on the fly"? Of course you can select N and 4Lo with the case out of the vehicle, or the vehicle not running. The only reason it helps shifting to those positions if the vehicle is rolling SLOWLY is that they are not synchronized, so if things don't slip into place when you pull the lever, a 1 MPH roll will allow things to slip enough to engage. You won't hurt it shifting by hand -- if it doesn't want to go, turn the rear driveshaft manually and see if that lets things align.