Eagle

Yes.

The best match would be '87 thru '89. A 1990 XJ will still be a Renix and all the engine and electronics stuff will be the same, but the front hubs, rotors and brakes will be different from your '89, and the rear brakes will be the smaller 9" Chrysler drums.

Not the same seats. I doubt anything will swap without some customizing.

How close to the arch of MJ springs would the arch of YJ Wrangler springs be? I would think it should be easy to find a Wrangler in a junkyard, and there must be something in a Wrangler leaf pack that's at least as long as the #3 in an MJ pack.

Add-on. Dealer or aftermarket, not available from the factory.

And ...? Shane, I'm 66 years old, I have an astigmatism, and I DON'T have a monitor the size of a garage door. On my screen your arrow points to a dark blotch. How's about using words? Like "Yes," or "no" or "the one directly under the main leaf"?

Out of curiosity, how did SVE repair the side that was fixed? And how well has the repair been holding up? BTW -- good photos.

Shane, which leaf broke, the one under the main leaf?

If you mean a complete swap, neither the '88 not the 2000 will swap right into the '91 MJ -- neither wiring harness is compatible. The '88 is Renix, the '91 is early OBD-I, and the 2000 is OBD-II with no coil -- the 2000 XJ 4.0L has individual coils packs on the spark plugs. Either engine could be dropped in and externals retrofitted to keep the '91 harness and accessories, but to do a full upgrade would, I think, require swapping the wiring harness. And the 2000 4.0L is the engine that has the questionable heads.

This is "Ralph," correct? So if it's an automatic it can't be clutch juice dripping on the fuse panel.

Assume you could keep your springs and just move the axle from over the spring to under. The distance down (relative to the chassis) that the axle would move will be the sum of the axle tube diameter PLUS two times the height of the spring perch PLUS the thickness of the leaf pack. Typically, that comes to around 5 to 5-1/2 inches. If you're looking for a 5" lift -- no, you don't need (and would not want) to toss in an AAL on top of the SOA conversion.

Not really. The Cherokee has the spring over the axle, so the springs are a lot flatter than an MJ -- as well as being shorter. What might work on an interim basis would be to pull the XJ springs, cut the eyes off the XJ main leaves, and put the main leaf plus the next leaf from the XJ in place of the broken leaf in your MJ packs. Better would probably be to get spring packs from an older Dakota or S-10 that's spring under like the MJ, and use those leaves to rebuild your MJ packs. Just remember to do the same thing on both sides or you'll have an unbalanced suspension.

If it isn't a truck ... what is it? "Real" trucks don't have master cylinders? Or are you saying that Chinese aftermarket parts for "real" trucks never fail after 3 or 6 months? Put things in perspective, Mate. AMC/Jeep did not make the part that went bad on you, so how does that in any way reflect of the design or quality of the vehicle? The master cylinders used in the early XJs and MJs were exactly the same as the master cylinders used in Fords of the same vintage. Including Ford trucks.

Good for you, but 1987Comanche advised pulling the needle off, and my and Don's advise NOT to do this was in response to that post.

:agree: You can't correct speedo error by moving the needle ... unless someone else "fixed" it that way before and you're un-fixing the "fix." Speedometer error is not a fixed number of MPH, like "5." It's proportional. If your speedo reads 2 MPH low at 25 MPH, then it'll be 4 MPH low and 50 and 6 MPH low at 75. The only way to correct it is by swapping speedo gears until you get the one that comes closest to being accurate. Remember that it's very rare to be dead nuts on. The factory typically used one speedo gear to cover two or three tire size/axle ratio combinations. If one of them was right ... the other two had to be wrong. You just want to get close. I prefer to have my speedo read a little high, so if I drive at the speed I'm seeing on the speedo, a cop with a radar or laser gun should hopefully read a couple of MPH less.

Sounds like a plan. Carry on, and happy braking.

They are $15.99 each at Auto Zone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... u4qeZ8knm5

Andy in PA lowered a 2WD MJ a few years ago. Dunno if it's still lowered, or if his wife took it over and made him convert it to 4WD. In any case, I believe he did it purely by clipping coils off the front springs, and I believe he once told me you can't go down much more than 2 inches that way due to oil pan / axle clearance.

Hey! I resemble that remark! And you are correct. I am definitely biased in favor of AMC engines over the throw-away crap they produce today. I don't regard maximum horsepower as the holy grail of engine design. I prefer simplicity and longevity.

Yes, they did. My '87 shortbed has a Dana 44 axle, but it is not a Metric Ton package (the package was not available on the shortbeds) and there are no stickers or anything to indicate that it has any other special package. Unfortunately, although I bought it from the daughter of the original owner, she didn't have any original paperwork so I don't know how it was spec'd out. Joop, the standard MJ rear springs were three leaves plus the overload, so I believe it is safe to say that you have a Metric Ton package -- whether it says so on the window or not. But 700 kg sounds like the standard payload. As I'm sure you aware, the conversion is 2.2 pounds per kilogram. An Imperial (American) ton is 2,000 pounds. A metric ton is 1,000 kg, or 2,200 pounds. 700 kg calculates to 1,540 pounds.

Did you read what you wrote there? I have no doubt you can get a newer 4-banger that makes more power on paper, and may even make more power in the real world. But those engines are in much lighter vehicles, so they won't perform in an MJ like they do in their "native" vehicles, nor will they produce the gas mileage in an MJ that they do in their native vehicles. An MJ 2.5L is good for between 200k and 300k miles, and I don't see any of the newer "disposable" engines being good for anywhere near that. I'd go with the Jeep engine.

First, compression fittings are not for brake lines. Use the proper flare fittings. Second -- I did what you are suggesting on my '88 Cherokee a few years ago. Replaced a foot or two of rusted line where it had popped. Friend came over to work the peddle while I bled the brakes. As soon as we had most of the air out of the rear and started to get a firm peddle -- it popped again, about 6" ahead of the new section. Don't fool around. Brakes are important. Just rip it out and replace the whole thing.

What about lightly buffing the cylinder wall with steel wool, then applying a light coat of oil ... not motor oil, but thin stuff, like 3-In-1 oil ... then take a glob of fast set epoxy or J-B Weld and press it into the score and hold it 'til it takes a set? Then pull it off, allow it to harden, and then you'll have a ridge to measure the height of rather than a groove to measure the depth of.

You guys are not answering his question. He isn't asking how to measure his bore, he is asking if it is possible to measure the depth of the score mark(s) in his cylinder walls to determine if an overbore will clean it up, or if he needs a new (different) block. There MUST be a way to measure this, but I don't know what that might be.

What year is the blown-up MJ engine? If it were me and my truck, I'd put in a late model XJ 4-banger, the one with multi-port injection, and build the engine with a Mopar Stage II camshaft (maybe even a Stage III, but I already have a stage II). There's a NAXJA member from one of the Rockie Mountain states who told me he routinely gets 28 MPG out of his 4-cyl 5-speed XJ. I think he said he was running the Stage III cam but I don't remember the details.