Eagle

The idler pulley bearing doesn't "knock" when it goes bad. It "howls" or "shrieks." Very loudly.

What drilling and tapping? He asked about the front. They are bolts, not studs. They're metric, but who cares? Replace with the nearest SAE grade 5 or grade 8, use anti-seize on the threads, and it's done.

What? You can't wait 3 hours for an answer? Were you going to the junkyard at 7:00 p.m. on Sunday? The answer is "No." There is nothing from a Grand Cherokee aluminum "D44" that fits a real D44.

Terminal B7 on the ECU. It should be a red wire feeding it. It's labeled "BAT" on the schematic -- dunno if it'll be marked that way on the ECU. According to the plug diagrams, B7 is in the smaller, rectangular plug, that has two rows of 12 pins. B7 is the bottom row, with #1 at lower left and #12 at lower right. (Lower refers to the smooth edge, not the edge with the snap fittings on it).

You should be correct. The ZJ supposedly used the AW4 only for 1993, and after that went to some Chrysler transmission. At least, that's what I have always been told by Jeep/Chrysler tech friends. I've never worked on any ZJ of any year or configuration so I don't know.

The wiring is different from '87 to '88, and again from '88 to late '89, so Haynes probably isn't the best possible source. So if you used a '90 harness, you don't have a C101 connector to worry about -- although that wouldn't affect power into the harness. Begin at the beginning, Grasshopper. Power runs from the battery to the main power connector stud on the starter relay. From there, you should have a #8 red going to the starter solenoid, and several fusible link wires. The fusible links should be (according to my 1988 factory electrical manual) a green #18 that transitions to a red #12 feeding the ignition switch, and a #12 blue that transitions to a #8 red and connects to the alternator. The fuel pump relay and the ECM both get power through the same fusible link. That one is an Orange #20 that transitions to a red # 14. It splits into four, a #14 red feeding the fuel pump relay, a red feeding the TCU (note says "with auto trans only" so I don't know if your harness will have it), a #16 red feeding the ECU, and a #14 red leading to connector C106 -- whatever the heck that is.

Replacement sockets are cheap at AutoZone. IIRC the one that's a direct replacement is listed for a Ford of some type.

According to your post, this is a 1986 MJ ... with a 4.0L engine and an AX-15 tranny? Who swapped the wiring harness, and what year vehicle did it come out of?

Fab work plus rear u-joint conversion plus wheel spacers. IMHO the 8.25 (the '97+ 29-spline version) is a far more logical choice for an MJ.

It's going to depend on what you hope to swap over. For example, from 1991 and newer the speedometer is electronic rather than mechanical, and the polarity of the fuel gauge is reversed, so you won't be able to use a gauge cluster out of a '91 or newer XJ. The spline count on the transfer case input changed, but since you'd need the tranny and transfer case together to upgrade to 4WD that's not an issue ... as long as both the tranny and transfer case in the XJ are known to be good. You can certainly swap in an entire newer front axle -- you just have to be aware that you have to swap in an ENTIRE newer front axle. You can't mix-and-match calipers, knuckles and hubs between the newer and older axles. Chrysler started using c-clip Dana 35s with the smaller brakes in 1990. To reiterate: what year(s) would be the best donors depends a lot on what you want to use off the XJ.

Yes.

The best match would be '87 thru '89. A 1990 XJ will still be a Renix and all the engine and electronics stuff will be the same, but the front hubs, rotors and brakes will be different from your '89, and the rear brakes will be the smaller 9" Chrysler drums.

Not the same seats. I doubt anything will swap without some customizing.

How close to the arch of MJ springs would the arch of YJ Wrangler springs be? I would think it should be easy to find a Wrangler in a junkyard, and there must be something in a Wrangler leaf pack that's at least as long as the #3 in an MJ pack.

Add-on. Dealer or aftermarket, not available from the factory.

And ...? Shane, I'm 66 years old, I have an astigmatism, and I DON'T have a monitor the size of a garage door. On my screen your arrow points to a dark blotch. How's about using words? Like "Yes," or "no" or "the one directly under the main leaf"?

Out of curiosity, how did SVE repair the side that was fixed? And how well has the repair been holding up? BTW -- good photos.

Shane, which leaf broke, the one under the main leaf?

If you mean a complete swap, neither the '88 not the 2000 will swap right into the '91 MJ -- neither wiring harness is compatible. The '88 is Renix, the '91 is early OBD-I, and the 2000 is OBD-II with no coil -- the 2000 XJ 4.0L has individual coils packs on the spark plugs. Either engine could be dropped in and externals retrofitted to keep the '91 harness and accessories, but to do a full upgrade would, I think, require swapping the wiring harness. And the 2000 4.0L is the engine that has the questionable heads.

This is "Ralph," correct? So if it's an automatic it can't be clutch juice dripping on the fuse panel.

Assume you could keep your springs and just move the axle from over the spring to under. The distance down (relative to the chassis) that the axle would move will be the sum of the axle tube diameter PLUS two times the height of the spring perch PLUS the thickness of the leaf pack. Typically, that comes to around 5 to 5-1/2 inches. If you're looking for a 5" lift -- no, you don't need (and would not want) to toss in an AAL on top of the SOA conversion.

Not really. The Cherokee has the spring over the axle, so the springs are a lot flatter than an MJ -- as well as being shorter. What might work on an interim basis would be to pull the XJ springs, cut the eyes off the XJ main leaves, and put the main leaf plus the next leaf from the XJ in place of the broken leaf in your MJ packs. Better would probably be to get spring packs from an older Dakota or S-10 that's spring under like the MJ, and use those leaves to rebuild your MJ packs. Just remember to do the same thing on both sides or you'll have an unbalanced suspension.

If it isn't a truck ... what is it? "Real" trucks don't have master cylinders? Or are you saying that Chinese aftermarket parts for "real" trucks never fail after 3 or 6 months? Put things in perspective, Mate. AMC/Jeep did not make the part that went bad on you, so how does that in any way reflect of the design or quality of the vehicle? The master cylinders used in the early XJs and MJs were exactly the same as the master cylinders used in Fords of the same vintage. Including Ford trucks.

Good for you, but 1987Comanche advised pulling the needle off, and my and Don's advise NOT to do this was in response to that post.

:agree: You can't correct speedo error by moving the needle ... unless someone else "fixed" it that way before and you're un-fixing the "fix." Speedometer error is not a fixed number of MPH, like "5." It's proportional. If your speedo reads 2 MPH low at 25 MPH, then it'll be 4 MPH low and 50 and 6 MPH low at 75. The only way to correct it is by swapping speedo gears until you get the one that comes closest to being accurate. Remember that it's very rare to be dead nuts on. The factory typically used one speedo gear to cover two or three tire size/axle ratio combinations. If one of them was right ... the other two had to be wrong. You just want to get close. I prefer to have my speedo read a little high, so if I drive at the speed I'm seeing on the speedo, a cop with a radar or laser gun should hopefully read a couple of MPH less.