Eagle

1989? Overflow? You don't have an antifreeze overflow. That plastic bottle on the firewall is NOT an overflow, it's an integral part of the cooling system, it's pressurized, and that cap is your pressure cap. You do NOT remove that cap unless the system is cold. (Unless you enjoy third degree scald injuries, of course.) Get (or borrow) a compression gauge and check the compression on all cylinders.

10-4. I know Hornbrod disagrees with me, but I try to learn from experience. The height-sensing valve in my '88 MJ was functional, too ... right up to the day the old man in the Buick cut me off and I had to make a panic stop. The height-sensing valve exploded. Considering that 1992 was the last year for the MJ, that means the NEWEST of those gilhoolies is now a minimum of 19 years old. I don't trust them. I'm a bit funny about brakes -- when I stomp on the peddle, I sort of prefer that the system not blow up. I grew up in the era before they had proportioning valves -- I can deal with too much brakes a lot better than I can deal with standing on the peddle with both feet and not even slowing down very much.

Yeah, and we had ONE guy in the original Javelin/AMX Sports car Club of Connecticut who single-handedly destroyed FIVE of them. Moron. Then there was my brother. When we got into speed events a bit more serious than Sunday autocrosses I bought a cheap, base model Javelin and built that up as my budget racer. My brother gave me a load of [bleep] about what a dope I was for wasting all that money when I had a perfectly good AMX (three, actually), while he raced his pristine '69 AMX and saved all that money. Pristine, that is, until a hill climb at Okemo in Vermont, when he went straight where the road went left. Did I mention that Okemo is a mountain? And that when you fall off the road it's a loooooooong way down? Moron x2

:agree:

Or just call Crutchfield. The speakers are 4" x 6", not 4-1/2" x 6" http://www.crutchfield.com/S-OTggjUtNpM ... tp=105&l=J The 4" version mounts on a 4" x 6" plate. There was a Mercedes model a few years ago that took the same speaker.

They are 4" round speakers on a 4" x 6" plate. http://www.crutchfield.com/g_400/All-Ca ... tp=105&l=J

I wasn't trying to be insulting, just inject some humor. But the search only works when you type in the right word. There won't be many discussions of MJ brake systems if you search this site for "porpoise."

You plug the BOTTOM front outlet on the front metering block. The thread is 1/2" fine thread. The shortest bolt I was able to find in a 1/2" fine was 1-inch -- I cut it to the length that allowed it to just seat with an O-ring under the head, then I put a glob of RTV on the end before I installed it. Discussed in this thread, toward the end: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22773&p=235043&hilit=bolt+proportioning+block#p235043 And, Brandon -- it's "proportioning" valve, not "porpoising." No aquatic mammals were harmed in the manufacture of the MJs.

You plug the BOTTOM front outlet on the front metering block. The thread is 1/2" fine thread. The shortest bolt I was able to find in a 1/2" fine was 1-inch -- I cut it to the length that allowed it to just seat with an O-ring under the head, then I put a glob of RTV on the end before I installed it. Discussed in this thread, toward the end: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22773&p=235043&hilit=bolt+proportioning+block#p235043

I was afraid you were going to say that. So you haven't read any of the threads about how to remove or eliminate the rear height-sensing valve, I take it? What you DON'T want to do is plug it back at the valve itself. If you do that, you still have two lines running the full length of the chassis, which doubles the probability of a leak or rupture. Why keep two lines if you're not going to use the height-sensing valve? And how are you going to close off the line you remove from the rear height-sensing valve? The right way to do it is to remove the bypass line completely, starting at the master cylinder, and then run ONE new line directly from the master cylinder to the upper end of the flex hose at the rear axle.

Why do you need the thread size if you're getting rid of it?

I have a couple of AW-4s with transfer cases. I don't have a 4WD BA 10/5 or AX-15.

Truck's originally a 4 speed. It should have 3.55. And it does. I have 3.73 axles available to swap in, but not 4.10s. And it ain't gettin' a lift. This is going to be a daily driver.

Wire brush ==> Epoxy

I have a 1988 MJ SWB with a 2.5L engine and 4-speed manual tranny, in 2WD. The internal slave ruptured, so it has not been driven for a couple of years, and the engine has 208,000 miles on it. I would like to get it back on the road this summer, but with a change to 4WD. I have some options -- enough to have me unable to decide which route to go. 1. I could rebuild the 2.5L, keep it as a Renix, and swap in a 5-speed AX-5 with transfer case to make it 4WD. 2. I also have the parts to convert the 2.5L to an AW-4 automatic in 4WD. 3. I have a 100,000 mile 1987 4.0L AW-4 4WD drive train I can swap in from a complete XJ donor vehicle. 4. I have a '95 YJ 2.5L engine and 3-speed auto with the MPFI parts on the engine, but no wiring harness or computer. I could get the missing stuff from a junk yard and upgrade to the newer 2.5L setup. I'm not looking for a heavy-duty off-road beast (I have an old XJ for that), and I'm not looking for a street rocket. Gasoline will top $4/gallon by the end of this week (a couple of local stations are already above $4). I'm looking for a reliable and economical MJ to replace my '88 XJ as a daily driver. What would you lads do?

I used whatever data I could get, which for the most part was from Cooper. Even within one brand, different tires of the same nominal size will have different static radii and different revolutions per mile. That's why I went to the trouble of creating the spreadsheet -- because any calculations derived mathematically from the nominal width and profile ratio would be moderately inaccurate.

What diameter u-bolts are you getting? The stuff I've seen in most parts houses is typically 3/8" or 7/16". The OEM u-bolts for the MJ are 14mm -- the nearest SAE equivalent is 9/16", although I think a GOOD quality 1/2" is fine for most ordinary purposes, and better than a 20+ year old, rusted-out 14mm. But I wouldn't go smaller than 1/2"

Why get rid of it? The answer depends on what size tires you plan to run, what kind of driving you'll be doing, and how hard you beat on it. Considering that the disconnect axles mostly stand up to hard off-roading with 31", 32" and even 33" tires and the 4.0L engine, it's unlikely that you're going to break one with a 2.5L 4-popper unless you have a very heavy foot and drive it like you stole it. Just move the sleeve over and lock the disconnect shift motor in the connected position, and forget it's even there.

Also check the wires from the O2 sensor. If the signal from the O2 sensor isn't getting to the ECU, the ECU will probably be operating full-time in either open circuit mode or "limp home" mode.

All you need is a seal. Unless there's a reason to upgrade the axle, why strain the budget and create a lot of work when seals are cheap and easy to replace?

I'm pretty sure the holes are elongated so the same plates work with both axles. The stock plates will NOT work with the Chrysler 8-1/4 axle, though.

You can build a 242 to be stronger than any 231 ever dreamed of being. What transfer case do you think is used in the military HUMVEE? (Hint -- it has the numbers 2, 4 and 2 in it.) Then why is it that you can order just about anything you can dream up for the 231 but there is almost nothing available for the 242? If you can make it so much stronger where do you get the parts and why does nobody build them? http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/NP242.html http://flashoffroad.com/features/Tcase/ ... /tcase.htm http://www.ilovejeeps.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141

You can build a 242 to be stronger than any 231 ever dreamed of being. What transfer case do you think is used in the military HUMVEE? (Hint -- it has the numbers 2, 4 and 2 in it.)

I don't have the number but it's in the HELP! section of parts, and the one you need is listed for a Ford.

Thanks. That's bad news. That would require one adapter to get it up to a 2-barrel, and then a second adapter to get it to a 4-barrel. Not gonna happen. Looks like if I decide to go carbureted I'll just shop for a 1-barrel application from an older Rambler engine, like the 199 c.i.d. I-6. Or look for a donor XJ and convert to the newer multi-port injection.