Eagle

Well, an aftermarket skid that fits both is a good start, but I'm really interested in the factory skids. Does anyone know if the FACTORY ZJ gas tank skid will also fit the 97+ XJ? Thanks, Alexia.

I think I remember reading that the gas tank skid for a ZJ Grand Cherokee will also fit the 97 and newer XJs with the plastic gas tanks. Can anyone tell me for sure if this is correct, or if I'm imagining things? Thanks

Bolt DIRECTLY to the Renix head and give 10 to 25 more horsepower? Another "No." Will the later manifold bolt on? Yes. Do the ports line up? No. The ports are shaped differently and the newer heads have the ports located higher, so if you just bolt a late model manifold to a Renix head you have a massive port mismatch, and IMHO there's no way that can increase the horsepower. And, assuming you're talking about the intake manifold, the throttle body and the TB mount are different, so you have to either adapt the Renix throttle body to the late model manifold, or adapt the manifold to the Renix throttle body.

I've never checked the ballast resistor during or after operation, but it IS a resistor, and the nature of resistors is that they turn voltage into heat. Resistance generates heat, so what you're seeing may be perfectly normal.

No. The purpose of the thermostat is to keep the temperature UP, not down. Modern engines need to run warmer than the engines I used to build as a racer and autocrosser back in the 60s and 70s. Run the factory thermostat. If you get overheating with that in there, you have problems other than the thermostat. FWIW, the newer "open" radiator doesn't cool any better than the older, "closed" radiator. They have exactly the same cooling area. The weak point of the closed system is the crappy plastic bottle and pressure cap, and there are multiple options available to replace that with something you don't have to worry about.

I am in need of a gray carpet cover for a full-size spare, to fit a 2000/2001 Cherokee with 225/75R15 tires. I'm not sure how far back the color would be the same (or close). If anyone is hitting the u-pulls, please let me know if you see one in good condition, and let me know how much you'd want to bring it home and send it to me.

Most forum sites I belong to (including -- and even especially -- "gun" sites) do not allow "drive by" posts at all. IMO they are nothing but a form of trolling. It's easy to throw up a link without saying anything about why you think anyone should read it or what your position is. That way, no matter what someone says about it you can always attack them for it because you haven't revealed your position. Personally, I'm here to discuss Comanches. There are "gun" forums for people who wish to discuss guns, and there are political forums for those who wish to discuss politics.

The STOCK gearing with the 2.5L and the 5-speed was 4.10, and 2.5L MJs typically came with 205/75-15 tires. Jumping up to 31s means a change of approximately 11 percent, so you need at least a 10 percent increase in gear ratio just to stay even. Since 31x10.50s are so much heavier, you really want to do a bit more than just stay even. So ==> 4.10 + 10% = 4.51. So the 4.56 gearing is going to be about the same as stock gearing and stock tires. I think with the 2.5L and 31s you really need the 4.88s.

XJ Up Country front coils, which ride 1" higher than stock for a 4.0L, are the same part numbers as ZJ V8 springs, not 6-cylinder ZJ. That's for a 6-cylinder. Since you have a 4-cylinder, 6-cylinder ZJ coils should give you some lift but I don't know how much.

In that chart, you will see that there are two columns marked "Revolutions per mile." The one under "Theoretical" is filled in for every tire. Those values are calculated based on the tire dimensions. The other one, under "Actual," doesn't have a value for every tire. Where the "Actual" numbers are filled in, they were taken directly off manufacturers published tire specs and should be considered more accurate than the column under "Theoretical." The "Theoretical" revolutions per mile numbers don't account for sidewall squat, which (as you can see looking at the tires that show a manufacturer's static radius) reduces the rolling radius to less than half of the calculated tire diameter. Smaller radius ==> more revolutions per mile.

Did you miss the rebuilt Jasper engine? That's probably a $2500 ticket, right there. From the engine room photo it doesn't appear that the engine was replaced last week, but an overall low mileage truck with a professionally rebuilt engine has to be worth something. $1500? $2000?

I also can't vote ...

Pretty much. Let's see if this will show up large enough to read:

245 by what? And when you say 30.5s ... that's not a tire size. Are you really talking about 31x10.50s, which are typically 30.5" in diameter, or are you talking about 30x9.50s, which are typically 29.5" in diameter? 245/75-15s are also 29.5" in diameter. 245/70-15s are 28.5" in diameter. 245/75-16s are 30.5" in diameter. What do you have?

Tire balance.

Heißen Sie willkommen zum Comanche Klub Forum, übrigens.

No, it doesn't bypass the relay. From your description, it sounds like power is not getting to the solenoid. That's the smaller, cylindrical thingie mounted to the starter. The solenoid is like a magnetic clutch that engages the toothed drive gear on the starter with the teeth on the flywheel ring gear. Shorting those two contacts energizes the magnet in the solenoid, which pulls the drive gear into position. Pull the starter and have it checked out on a bench tester.

What kind of SYE does Tom Woods offer? Is it a true SYE or is it a hack-and-tap? [EDIT]Never mind -- I looked it up. It's a modified hack-and-tap.

Been there, done that. I had my '88 set up with 3.73s and 31x10.50 tires. The speed:RPM ratio was EXACTLY the same as my wife's XJ with stock tires and 3.54 gears. It was ... "okay" ... but I really wish I had more gear. I put the 3.73s in because I had them, but they were bought with the intention of running 30x9.50 tires, not 31s. IMHO for your setup you should be running 4.10 gears.

here's a link for you http://widetrackdrive.com/temp/mj/tach-pot.jpg :cheers: That's a good photo. The potentiometer is the part labeled "J103C"

I agree that it's a good idea to have a double flaring kit, but spend the extra to get a good one. The cheap ones don't hold the line, so you get crappy flares that leak -- or you just can't get a flare. A friend of mine and I spent a couple of hours in his garage trying to do ONE stupid flare with a cheap Auto Zone flare tool, and never got it done. I got my flare tool set and the flare took maybe three minutes.

Of course -- that's why the relay is there. But the "trigger" signal is still 12 volts.

If it works, don't change it. But the KC relay is redundant, because you now have a relay controlling the "trigger" function of the OEM fan relay. @lsmurphy, everything in an MJ is 12 volts, so your characterization of the "trigger" wire as "low voltage" is way off base. What I said stands: If you want to control the fan with a switch, you MUST run wiring into the cab. (Unless you want to go high tech and create a wireless remote to actuate the fan relay.)

If you want to control the fan with a switch inside the cab, obviously the wiring has to enter the cab. The difference between doing as Craig Houghtaling did and the way I suggested is that doing it Craig's way allows you to run the fan when the engine is off. Doing it the way I suggested won't run the fan if the engine is off.

I think I understand that your intention is to have the fan run all the time, but if you do it this way you will have no option. You will HAVE to run it all the time, or else always control it manually. In cooler weather, if you turn off the fan switch it cannot come on automatically with the a/c because you will have bypassed the control circuit. You already have a fan relay and the circuit to control it based on either radiator temperature or a/c operation. IMHO it makes no sense to cut out the relay that's intended to run the fan and then use a relay that's NOT untended to control the fan. The sensor in the radiator is nothing but an on/off switch that's actuated by temperature. You can't "energize" a sensor. You would disconnect the wires from the back of the switch, tap onto the two wires coming off the radiator sensor, and run two new wires directly to your switch. That leaves the entire OEM fan control system intact, and allows you to use your toggle switch as a manual override.