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Eagle

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Everything posted by Eagle

  1. Eagle
    3500 RPM is far below the redline for the 2.5L engine, but using that as a shift point you get: 1st ==> 17 MPH 2nd ==> 29 MPH 3rd ==> 47 MPH 4th ==> 68 MPH
  2. Eagle
    The profile is not at all noticeable.
  3. Eagle
    You won't do a body lift, because the cab part of the MJ (Comanche) is unibody. Where are the tires rubbing? Are you running factory Jeep rims or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what width, and what backspacing?
  4. Eagle
    Tell us what RPM you'd like to use for your shift point and I'll work up the speeds in gears.
  5. Eagle
    You can replace the electronic speedo drive with a mechanical. I don't know if you need the long or short gear, however. Don't use the later transfer case unless you plan to do a slip yoke eliminator. The output shaft is VERY long, it is prone to vibration, and it is also prone to causing breakdowns when subjected to serious off-road use. It's a half-baked solution -- Jeep should have done a factory equivalent of a true slip yoke eliminator and used a sealed output, short tailshaft, and put the slip joint in the driveshaft.
  6. Eagle
    First, because the factory service manual specifically says NOT to resurface the flywheel. (Which doesn't really answer your question of "Why?"). Second, because every single person I know of who has had a 4.0L flywheel resurfaced has reported problems with the new clutch, and in most of those cases replacing the flywheel cured the problems.
  7. Eagle
    They are completely unnecessary. If the standard rearview and two sideview mirrors are correctly adjusted, there is no blind spot, from 90 degrees right (passenger side) all the way around to 90 degrees left (driver's side).
  8. Eagle
    I remember Wink mirrors. IMHO they are a solution in search of a problem, and in use they are exceptionally distracting. Personally, I think they're dangerous and should not be legal, but ... nobody asked me. If you don't see them any more -- consider that there may be a reason for that.
  9. Eagle
    The concept of the expansion tank and "closed" system is not a bad idea. Several other manufacturers were using it at the same time Jeep first used it ('87 thru '90), and Jeep went back to it with the Liberty. The problem with it as executed on the '87 - '90 XJ and MJ is that they used a plastic cap on a plastic bottle, and plastic is not particularly stable as temperature changes. One of the favored "fixes" for the XJ & MJ has been to get expansion tanks from Pontiacs or Dodges in the junk yard. These have "real" pressure caps on them. Not knowing about that, I replaced mine with an all-aluminum surge tank my Moroso, which uses a standard radiator cap. Back to the original question: If your truck still has the original radiator, most likely it's plugged and not providing much cooling in summer weather,. My '88 XJ (the one I bought new) is currently on it's third radiator. BTW - just adding a filler neck in the radiator hose doesn't make the original surge tank into an overflow tank. It'll still be part of the pressurized system. An "overflow" tank is outside of the pressurized system, and separated from it by the radiator cap.
  10. Eagle
    Those are just the lug nuts, not the oblong inserts to keep the wheels located. Plus those lug nuts are bullet shaped, which is a bit strange. Even AutoZone has the correct lug nuts, but they don't seem to offer the correct inserts. The lug nuts look like these: If the manufacturer's name is stamped on the wheels anywhere, perhaps they are still in business and can provide the inserts.
  11. Eagle
    Removing the thermostat is a bad idea. People who suggest things like that don't understand that the purpose of the thermostat is to keep the temperature UP, not down. If the engine runs too cold, it doesn't run efficiently. With the Jeep RENIX injection system, too cold means the ECU never switches from "warm-up" mode to "run" mode, so you'll always be running rich and wasting fuel.
  12. Eagle
    The rule of thumb is that tires should not be more than 4 inches wider than the rim. IF your rims are 7-inch, that means a maximum tire width of 11 inches. If your rims are 6-inch, that means a maximum tire width of 10 inches. You can mount 32x11.50s on the stock rims, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. Some shops may refuse. If your rim width isn't listed on the chart for that tire, shops that are aware of liability issues won't mount them for you.
  13. Eagle
    You could not pay me enough to put those under any of my Jeeps. Can you return them and get your money back?
  14. Eagle
    Use the donor downpipe. Reuse the lines that are in your truck. The pump will swap over, the fuel gauge sender won't. You should be able to use the sender from the 2.5L fuel pump. (I think.) Remove the boot inside the cab. There are four bolts holding the shifter into the tranny. Remove bolts, pull out shifter. Use the linkage that goes with the tranny and transfer case you will be installing. You need 4.0L front springs. The '86 had an external slave.
  15. Eagle
    That part is plastic, and the plating on it is not chrome ... it's "chrome-like." Whatever blemishes you see, they aren't rust because plastic doesn't rust. Given your location, I'd say just clean it up, wax it, and drive it.
  16. Eagle
    Or a bad oxygen sensor.
  17. Eagle
    Light bracket? Are you talking about the retainer ring that holds the headlight into the bucket? If so, it's not chrome, it's stainless steel. If it has holes in it, throw it away and get another.
  18. Eagle
    There is no such thing as elongated lug nut holes that I've ever heard of ... except wheels that have been drive with loose lug nuts and the holes damaged. A long, LONG time ago I had a set of aftermarket alloy wheels on a Javelin that used straight lug nuts. The holes were not elongated, and the lug nuts had straight shanks and washers for bearing on the face of the wheel. I have seen alloys that are universal fit -- the lug holes are in a removable, reversible insert. Orient them one way and you had a Ford bolt pattern, reverse them and you had a GM pattern. I haven't seen wheels like that for a very long time, either. Are your wheels "hub-centric"? If not ... don't use them.
  19. Eagle
    Yes on the stripper. I use "Aircraft Stripper" from AutoZone. Wax won't hold up for long. Aluminum exposed to air and moisture oxidizes on the surface. That's whay the factory clearcoats them in the first place.
  20. Eagle
    I have always been frustrated by the fact that AMC designed the Cherokee with amber turn signal/hazard warning lights that are fully independent of the brake/tail lights ... but they did NOT do that with the MJ. I'm back to wanting to add some auxiliary lights to operate as dedicated hazard flashers, without interacting with the brake lights and disabling the turn signals. Money's tight, so this has to be a low-budget project or it can't happen. I can't open up a Gall's catalog and buy a set of professional-grade strobes. I was in a Wal-Mart yesterday and I noticed that many of their clearance lights have gone over to LED. Has anyone ever tried these? I'm curious as to whether or not they are bright enough to serve as hazard flashers on a bright, sunny day. If not ... I won't waste my time on them.
  21. Eagle
    What year MJ and what engine? If it's an 87 through 90 4-liter, the bottle is not an overflow, it's a pressurized tank. Overflowing could mean the cap doesn't seal tightly (very possible), or it could mean the tank is overfilled. The colling system with the pressure tank doesn't have any overflow provision, so there has to be somewhere for coolant to expand when it gets hot. The coolant bottle on the firewall should be filled halfway when cold -- no higher, and definitely not "full."
  22. Eagle
    Please do. There should be some date codes on the right side of the block, near the distributor IIRC.
  23. Eagle
    Go to Lowe's or Home Despot and buy a short length of 5/16" plain steel rod. The shortest they sell is probably 8" or 12". 8" might work, 12" I would cut in half. Take it to your bench grinder (you DO have a bench grinder, right? If not, turn in your man card no later than Thursday at 1200 hours) and grind about a 60 degree taper on the end. Use that as your drive pin. A tapered punch will be too fat and will stop before all the holes are lined up. This thing-a-ma-bob will self-align the holes as the taper passes through, and the straight body enters the spring pack.
  24. Eagle
    A worn track bar can result in a LOT of free play across center of the steering wheel. Worn/sloopy tie rod ends will also result in loose, sloppy steering. My advice is to enlist an assistant, and start checking each moving part. Touch is more sensitive than sight. Park with the wheels straight ahead. First test is the steering box itself. Turn the steering wheel gently back and forth across the center (straight) position while watching the left front tire. There should be almost no movement of the steering wheel before the tire starts to move, and you should feel some resistance against the steering wheel as soon as it gets off center (straight). Now put your helper in the driver's seat. The helper should move the steering wheel back-and-forth across center, NOT actually turning the front tires but stopping just short of when the tread contact patch actually moves on the ground. What this does is load the steering components. What you do is put on a rubber exam-type glove, lie on the ground under the front end, and put your fingers on each moving joint. You want to see and feel if there's any slop or looseness between the tie rod end and the steering arm it attaches to. Also check the tie rod type fitting at the upper end of the track bar, and the bushing connection at the axle end of the track bar. Replace any parts that have slop.
  25. Eagle
    Ya know ... I've never noticed.
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