Eagle

Check this out http://comancheclub.com/topic/32740-alexias-1987-to-1997-comanche/page-13 Jump to the top of page 13 in that thread

Of course. Next you'll ask "How?" That's going to take some time, because I don't know where I put my FSM with the wiring diagrams for the factory foglight setup.

And you determine your tire size by reading the size stamped on the sidewall, not by measuring with a tape measure.

Mate, you are confusing the hell out of people. "Turn over" means that the starter motor spins the crankshaft. If your engine isn't "turning over," neither spark nor fuel make any difference because the engine is just sitting there, not rotating. So is it not turning over, or is it turning over but not firing? If it is turning over, never mind that you replaced a bunch f ignition stuff -- do you have spark at the spark plugs?

Almost all of them today have plastic housings. Plastic doesn't rust.

In In fog, of course. I grew up spending summers with my grandparents on the coast of Maine. Fog often was VERY thick, and even low beam headlights created more blinding reflection than they provided useful illumination. The whole point of "fog" lights is to have a very low, very flat beam with a sharp cut-off so as much light as possible goes on the road, and as little light as possible gets reflected back into the driver's eyes. Both my wife's and my 2000 XJs and my '88 XJ have fogs. I don't think they've been used more than four or five times the entire time I've owned the vehicles, because we don't often get real fog in these parts any more (we did when I was a kid -- more proof of global warming?).I am continually amused by all the cars and SUVs I see driving around on clear nights and clear evenings with their fog lights on. Fords (Exploders, mostly) are among the worst offenders -- the "fog" lights are aimed higher than the headlights, which is blinding to on-coming drivers and would be worse than useless in real fog.

IIRC, with the factory harness the fogs ONLY operate when the headlights are on. Not with just the parking lights, and definitely not by themselves with no other lights on. The wiring diagram posted by Skidoo allows the use of the fogs only, even if no other lights are on. My alternate suggestion would still require the use of the parking lights. IMHO the factory wiring was a dumb setup for that reason. I don't know why they did it that way, as I had owned AMC cars in the early 80s that had factory fog that did NOT require the headlights to be on, yet still went off when the high beams came on. Redwolf ... just use Ski's wiring diagram. EXACTLY as he posted it. Just remember that the relays will both have five terminals, and pay attention to which one uses terminal 87 and which one uses terminal 87A.

If the DW showed up after a night of mudding, it could just be mud caked into a wheel causing a massive imbalance.

Doesn't exist. The ZJ Grand Cherokee was offered with a 5-speed only in 1993, and only behind the 4.0L engine.

Maybe easier for some people, others might consider the track modification easier. But ... Unless you're an expert body workers, the striker replacement/relocation is a kludge that mangles the door post and will always be instantly visible and obvious any time the door is opened. That's not a consideration for some people, and it's a major consideration for other people.

I did. The load on the alternator doesn't depend on the alternator RPM, but the load on the alternator sure as hell increases as you increase the amperage draw on the system. A heavy load makes the alternator pulley work a LOT harder. And that's when that minimal contact patch probably won't cut it.

PLEASE! Start a new discussion when you start talking about a new problem. It doesn't help you and it gets very confusing to have two completely unrelated discussions going on in the same thread. THIS thread is about radios ...

Are you aware that the "quill" that holds the speedo drive gear -- the piece that you bolt into the transfer case -- has to be oriented properly depending on the number of teeth on the speedo drive gear or it won't work? You can't just bolt it in and assume it's right.

Bigger bolt? Are you going to drill out the hole in the axle bracket? If so, then you'll never EVER again be able to use a stock track bar and bolt. Sounds to me like you need a track bar -- unless you can source a bushing. I've read that the bushing can be replaced, but I don't know of anyone who has actually done it. Also, FWIW, a loose track bar does not cause death wobble. I drove my '88 XJ through an entire winter with almost a quarter turn of free play in the steering due to the track bar, and I had zero death wobble. You should fix the track bar ... but it's not causing your death wobble.

thanks for the diagram, that'll be very useful, only question right now is, where are the relays located, on the fuse box or inside the dash? Redwolf They aren't "located." You provide them, and you put them anywhere you want them. Your new lights may come with one relay, but to make the lights go off when the headlights are on high beam (which is required by law, so it's not a bad idea) you need the two relays in series, as drawn in that very excellent wiring diagram. The onlyy thing I would do differently would be the power tap to the toggle switch. Where Skidoo shows the white wire going to the ignition, I would tap it of one of the parking lights. That way, the fogs won't work unless you have at least the parking lights turned on. But -- that's a matter of preference. It'll work just fine as drawn -- provided you know how to find a circuit to tap that's controlled by the ignition switch. Also, pay close attention to the relay terminal markings. Skidoo shows only four terminals, but the relays have five. On one of them you use terminal 87, on the other you use terminal 87a. This is important.

Yeah -- after you make a bunch of careful measurements, drill new holes in the door post, and remove the interior behind the door post to get a new backing plate in there for the new latch post to bolt up to. Piece of cake. NOT!

If that's not a problem ... he's not trying hard enough. I can see how a set of four roof-mounted trail lights, paired with upgraded headlights, and a winch would really tax the alternator, and I don't think that tiny contact patch would be up to the task.

That doesn't give the belt much "grab" on the alternator pulley. Doesn't it slip if you turn on a lot of stuff that draws big current?

If I remember correctly, the '93 ZJ came with the AW4. (However, my memory ain't what it used ta was.) Basic considerations I expect you're already aware of: you'll need the TCU for the AW4, and I assume it may require an AW4-specific TPS to send the correct signals to the TCU.

Those shock mounts are well made (or appear to be), but they are a VERY bad idea IMHO. Look at the stock mounts for an MJ. Both the upper studs and the lower studs are parallel to the axle (perpendicular to the driveline). These mounts locate the lower bolts parallel to the driveline and perpendicular to the axle. That means if the axle rotates much at all during flex, instead of the lower shock mount allowing the shock body to rotate on the bolt, it's locked in and the only movement you get is however much flex there is in the rubber bushing. They should have run the bolt through both sides of the mounts.

That takes care of locating the new perches laterally (side-to-side). With a lift of more than 6 inches (the SOA alone is going to generate about six inches -- with those drop shackles you're probably look at 7" to 8" of lift), you should do a test fit of the axle in the truck so you can check the u-joint angles and adjust the angle of the perches on the axle as necessary. If what I just wrote doesn't make sense to you -- your driveshaft has two u-joints in it, one at the front and one at the axle. The front one puts the driveshaft at an angle to the transfer case output shaft. The rear one transfers the angle of the driveshaft to the angle of the pinion gear in the axle. Those two angles need to be the same, or you'll have driveline vibrations and you'll eat u-joints. Mounting new perches parallel to the old ones will almost certainly NOT be the correct angle for properly orienting the pinion to the driveshaft.

I assume your opening question refers to the two steel brake lines running from the distribution block on the axle to the wheel cylinders. Yes, those are in the way of the relocated perches. They will have to be removed. After the perches have been welded on, you make up new hard lines that bend around the spring perches. If you are having a shop do the welding, have you considered how to locate the perches to set the correct driveline angle? How will you convey this information to the shop?

The springs in it now are very soft ... so soft that my wife complained about how she almost got seasick when she rode in the back recently when driving relatives to the airport. I've done the extra main leaf AAL before and the ride is very comfortable. The result is also fairly predictable. Doing a mixed pack with MJ springs would be completely unpredictable, and mixing leaves with greatly different native arch is never a good idea.

Thanks, but I'm not interested in screwing up the suspension geometry. This XJ is my daily driver. Besides, you apparently missed this part: I have an intact pair of mid-90s XJ springs that were take-outs when one of the guys in NAXJA-NAC lifted his. I think what I'll do is cut the eyes off the main leaves on those, then remove the lower three leaves from my spring packs and put the full four leaves from the donor springs in. If that doesn't get me all the way to the 18" it should be, it'll still be a lot better than it is now. I was considering adding a sixth leaf, but I suspect that will take it too high.

It has fewer turns lock-to-lock because of the faster ratio. The lock is in the same position, in terms of angle off straight ahead. The faster-ratio box would make no difference with respect to rubbing (or not) on the LCAs.