Eagle

I believe AMC also used the Iron Duke in the 4-banger Eagle SX/4, which was in production at the same time that AMC was using the engine in the CJ.

I used to recommend Jo-Anne Fabrics, but I stopped into one a couple of months ago and couldn't find any headliner material. The store manager insisted they still carry it, but she and another clerk couldn't seem to remember where they have it ...

The 2.5L uses the same GM bellhousing bolt pattern as the 2.8L and 3.4L small V6s.

I have three of those, two black and one chrome. They are a somewhat ugly but utiliarian replacement and about the cheapest thing you can find, but they are not even close to matching the OEM bumper.

That's exactly what I'm suggesting. You may not even need a new fuel pump. Siphon off enough gas to get the level below that hole in the tank. Then clean off all the gasoline residue. I would use carb cleaner first, followed by brake cleaner -- and then maybe wipe it down with alcohol. Mix up a bit of epoxy and press it tightly around the tubes to seal them to the flange. I used to use an epoxy that came in ribbon form. It had the consistency of clay. You tore off a strip, mixed the two colors together, then applied. That stuff would stick even to a surface wet with gasoline -- as I proved conclusively by doing it. The problem is, I haven't seen that product for sale for several years, and I don't know what epoxy to recommend in its place.

Before you buy a new tank -- be SURE the leak isn't where the metal tubes come through the fuel pump mounting flange. I made that mistake. I had a leak. I put in a shiny new tank, drove to the gas station to fill up, and just over the half tank mark it started peeing gas all over the place. A leak at that mounting flange is a very common problem -- perhaps even more common than needing a new tank.

Something isn't right. The Dana 44 wasn't offered in 1986. The '86 heavy-duty axle was the AMC Model 20. My old eyes are having trouble seeing your spring clearly, but that spring looks like a 3+1. I don't think that's a metric ton spring. I believe they were either 3+2 or 4+1, depending on year.

Happy New Year, y'all. Keep those MJs rolling.

No, I can't tell you why they say you can re-use them only once. I've lost contact with the last AMC factory engineer I knew several years ago. I would guess that taking them to the specified torque must be very close to the elastic limit and that it's just a risk to push your luck with them. There are three elements involved, any one of which can fail. There the bolt itself, that can be stretched beyond the elastic limit. Once that happens, it yields (stretches), and you lose the clamping force you're trying to develop. And then there are the threads, in both the block and the bolt. The shaft of the bolt is in tension as you torque it, but the threads are acting in shear. Steel has different limits for tension, compression, and shear. And the bolt alloy is likely different than the block alloy, so the limits are also probably different. Over-torquing or over-using the bolts may just strip the threads off the shank, or maybe strip the threads out of the block. I haven't seem either mode of failure in the flesh, but I have seen a head bolt literally pull the rear corner off the block. That was ugly -- you can't fix that with a helicoil. Don't get me wrong -- using new head bolts is always better. But the factory says they can be reused once, and I've rebuilt any number of engines using the original head bolts, including a couple of race engines, and didn't have any failures. I've never rebuilt the same engine a second time but, if I did, I would believe the factory engineers and not try to use the same head bolts a third time.

I don't like or dislike you. I don't know you. I DID, however, study graduate-level structural engineering and strengths of materials. And I read your links, how else would I have picked up that they are comparing new, lubricated bolts to used, dry bolts with damaged threads? Doesn't really matter if it's head bolts, u-bolts, wheel studs or any other bolt that has a specified torque. Except for torque-to-yield bolts, the specified torques are intended to generate the required clamping force while keeping the bolt within its elastic limit. And I think if you check the XJ or MJ FSM you'll find that the torques for both head bolts and u-bolts are specifically given as for "clean, dry threads." Lubricate them, and if you don't reduce the specified torque you run the risk of torquing the bolt beyond the elastic limit. That puts it into the plastic range, which is where you get permanent deformation.

Horse manure. A bolt only loses clamping force if it's stretched beyond its elastic limit, into the plastic range (which is another way of describing a torque-to-yield bolt). The 2.5L and 4.0L Jeep engines do not use TTY head bolts. Nope. It's completely unfair, unrealistic, and useless to compare lubricated, undamaged threads against dry, damaged threads. That's essentially like saying it's more difficult to skate on sandpaper than it is to skate on ice. The statement is true, but it's useless and meaningless. Further, I can't recall ever seeing a factory service manual that called for lubricated threads. All I've ever seen is a requirement for clean, DRY threads. Torque specs generally tell you to reduce the specified torque by 15% to 25% (the percentage will vary depending on the size of the bolt and the thread pitch) if the threads are lubricated.

The OEM clutches were Luchs.

Do you replace your wheel studs every time (or every second time) you rotate your tires? They are 1/2" and the torque spec (depending on what year FSM you look at) is anywhere from 85 pounds to 115 pounds. By the way, the word is "wary." "Weary" means extremely tired.

Agreed. That's not a c-clip axle -- there's no groove for the c-clip.

SLOW DOWN! If it cranks, you OBVIOUSLY have power to the starter, so you don't have "no power." And if it cranks, you don't need a starter relay. Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail? have you checked? What pressure? Do you have spark? Do you have headlights and tail lights? DON'T just start throwing parts at it -- you'll go broke. Diagnose the problem one step at a time.

ZJ V8 coils (which are the same part number as 2000 XJ Up Country coils). Or, NAPA (and I think Carquest) sell variable rate "cargo coils" for the XJ/MJ.

One consideration -- I assume the kit calls for removing the pan from the transmission. The dipstick/fill tube is integral with the pan. It's in two pieces, so the upper part can stay in the vehicle when you drop the pan. The problem is that the rubber O-ring at the joint is probably rock hard and you won't be able to separate the two halves. And you'll probably have to destroy the upper half to get the pan out of the truck. To be safe, buy a spare upped tube and O-ring to have available if you need them. Use Vaseline on the O-ring when reassembling.

Install metric ton springs. The LWB Comanche with the metric ton package was rated to carry 2,200 pounds (which happens to be a metric ton).

That's correct. Keep dual pipes all the way, or don't bother.

Must be nice to live where it never rains or snows ... Around here, something like that would just be a portable reservoir.

Merry Christmas, y'all. Tomorrow I expect to see lots of reports of MJ toys under the tree.

I wouldn't use pipe. It's steel, but not particularly strong steel, and a 1" pipe really isn't going to offer much protection. Tubing is better, has structural properties, and can be bought in different wall thicknesses depending on how strong you want it.

I've been driving the '88 MJ with no rear proportioning valve and the MJ distribution block for several years with no issues. The XJ has more weight over the rear axle than an unloaded MJ, so I don't expect any problems there, either. And with the cup washer removed, I don't think the bare piston/plunger can restrict the brake fluid anyway, so I don't think leaving the spring in would create any bias. As I've mentioned before, I was driving for more than 20 years before I owned anything with a proportioning valve, so I'm very comfortable having good brakes when I need them.

Yes. The forward shank of the piston fits into another rubber gasket or bushing. That's open to the "nose" of the block and the forward retainer plug, which has a hole in it. Leave out the piston (plunger), and I think (I'm not certain -- haven't tried it) you'll have a quarter-inch hole for rapidly dumping your brake fluid into the engine compartment. I plan to remove the rubber cup washer from the aft end of the plunger, remove the spring, and manually shove the plunger full forward -- then I'll screw the plug into the valve body and enjoy having rear brakes again.

??? Please cite a source for this, because it is contrary to everything I have ever heard about oil filters and the Jeep engines. In fact, the Wix, Purolator, Mobil-1, and NAPA Gold filters all have reliable anti-drainback valves.