Eagle

Large reservoir feeds the front.

The aux fan relays on my '88 XJ and my '88 MJ are on the inner driver's fender, right next to the airbox. Yeah, thanks...I don't have those. my AUX fan relay is in my PDC. So how do I verify the AUX fan is switching on when it is suppose to? My bad. I went away, and when I came back I forgot we had switched from discussing a '90 to a '92. Hornbrod is the man for HO stuff.

The aux fan relays on my '88 XJ and my '88 MJ are on the inner driver's fender, right next to the airbox.

I don't think you understand. The XJ and the MJ are set up with two SETS of cross member mounting locations. Whichever one is used, there is one stud and one threaded hole for a bolt. There is another set of mounting holes, forward or rearward of what you are currently using. This is to account for differences between engines and transmissions.

Three inches off longitudinally, or laterally? Are you aware that the XJ and MJ have two sets of mounting holes/studs in the frame rails for the cross member? Perhaps you need to relocate to the other set of mounting holes/studs.

Which terminal in the relay socket did you test? Remember -- a relay is an electrically controlled switch. For the relay to be "ON" there has to be 12 volts to the input of the control side (terminal 85 or 86), and 12 volts to the input of the load side (terminal 30).

The discussion in this thread was about a '90 MJ -- that was a Renix design, with AMC/Renault electrics. Your '92 has a completely different wiring system, designed by Chrysler. On the '87-'90 Renix system, the aux fan is controlled by a temperature switch in the driver's side radiator tank, which sends a signal to a relay on the driver's side inner fender, which in turn controls the fan. There's a second feed from the A/C circuit that turns on the fan when the A/C is operating. On the HO models, the temperature sender is located in the thermostat housing rather than the radiator tank. The sender transmits a signal to the ECU, and the fan is controlled by the ECU. I don't know if the HO aux fan has a relay.

In internet lingo, It stands for "Cool Story Bro" :yes: That's the problem. Just about all home-brewed acronyms today have multiple meanings. When you want people to understand the question and provide meaningful answers, it's better to just use words, despite their being so last year. This is an Internet forum, not a text message. There isn't a 256 character limit to posts.

Good catch I went SOA so I ditched the stock spring plates But you didn't have to. You could have just flipped them from one side to the other and reused them. That would also have allowed you to keep the same shock absorbers.

"csb" meaning "Chevy Small Block"?

Probably not. Axle tube - 2.75" Perch offset - .5" x 2 Spring pack thickness - 1.25" Total - 5" I don't see how it can be any less than that.

But you'd need to take the front axle out to get access to the needle fitting. It's easier to just grease it well when you install it, then replace the zerk fitting with the supplied plug.

Also check the coolant level. When the level gets down (and it doesn't have to be very much down), coolant doesn't get to the heater core.

This is for a 1990 MJ, per your signature? Hornbrod is a post-90 owner, and that page looks like a page out of a Chrysler-era FSM, not an AMC manual. It's entirely possible that the wire colors changed from the AMC models to the Chrysler models, and the entire schematic of the headlight delay module may have changed, as well.

Sounds like there may be a new master cylinder in your future.

If you still have the factory flares on the front, the stock ride height was 17-1/2" measured from the center of the hub straight up to the bottom lip of the flare. What's your measurement? Subtract 17.5 and that's how much lift you actually have, with all that extra weight on the front. Choose rear springs accordingly. If you don't have the factory flares (or if you want to double check): http://comancheclub.com/topic/11098-how-to-measure-ride-hight/

I have never found gravity bleeding to be effective. Enlist the help of a friend and do it the old-fashioned way.

Don't ignore the obvious -- did you put the calipers on the correct sides, so the bleeders are on top?

My leaky vents are pre-Chrysler. My original Cherokee is AMC all the way.

Bollocks is right. In 1988, the operable wing vents were an extra-cost option on the Pioneer trim level. By offering to replace my operable (but leaky) vents with the fixed ones, Jeep was asking me to throw away the money I paid to get operable vents. And they weren't willing to refund the money I paid to get the defective vent windows. As for sealing them by adjusting something -- you can't. The problem is that the metal surround on the glass doesn't run all the way around the perimeter. Where the metal ends, there's a pronounced, sharp step. The molded rubber seals don't step that sharply, the transition is more rounded. This leaves a small gap that invites water to come in. It's just a bad design, and it's difficult to correct a bad design by adjusting parts that simply don't fit together. I "fixed" it by sealing the vents with silicone. That essentially transformed them into fixed windows, and in fact I haven't used them in twenty-plus years. But -- I can open them if I want or need to.

Okay, if you want to guess. The "at rest" (mid-travel) length for several Monroe shocks listed for the MJ is approximately 18.521". This ain't rocket surgery, so round that to 18.5". Add 4.5" and you get 23.0" Step 1: Refer to the Monroe length chart. For the MJ the upper and lower fittings are both L1, so look for an L1/L1 shock with a mid travel length of approximately 23" and a total travel distance somewhere in the range of 8 to 10 inches. Monroe doesn't list the at-rest length directly, so you're looking for something with a collapsed length of about 18.5" and an extended length of about 27.5".http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf Step 2: Go to Monroe's application listings to find out what make, model and year vehicle the shocks you find are designed for. http://www.monroe.com/en-US/catalog/Part-Search/ Step 3: Shop for shocks fitting the resulting vehicles in the shock brand and series of your choice.

I get them at Auto Zone

The shock length will depend on how you position/reposition the lower shock mounts when you put in the lift. If your truck is now stock, the lower mount is a stud that extends off the lower spring plate, which is under the axle and under the leaf spring. If all you do is install an add-a-leaf, then you'll need a shock with a mid-travel length about 4 inches longer than stock. If you go to the Monroe on-line catalog, you can look up shocks by end fitting and length to get a part number. Then go to a different section of their web site to cross-index that part number to what vehicle(s) it fits. The look up Bilsteins to fit that vehicle. There is only one rear hose, from the frame to a junction block on the rear axle. You will need a longer one. '95 YJ is what I used with a 4" lift.

I'm going to assume that when you dropped the transmission to change the clutch, you first removed the shifter from inside the cab so you wouldn't have to "feed" the shift handle through the hole in the floor. If so -- are you sure you reinstalled the shifter with the little ball at the bottom properly engaging the shift rods in the tranny? My guess is that the shifter isn't engaging the mechanism properly.

Hey, we got there in the end. So we can check calibration ... just not directly. What kind of transformer is needed? Any old thing that puts out 12 volts?