87MJJeep

Thank you!

1987, Jeep Comanche SporTruck. Images coming soon (see avatar for small oldie) 4.0L / Auto (AW4?) / CommandTrac / Front axle? / Rear axle? / Short wheelbase Build date: (don't have access to it right this instant) Current Location: West TN Status: Purchased from someone daily driving it in 2007. I am 4th/5th owner. Getting repainted currently. Notes: Grenadine exterior color, burgundy interior, bench seat cloth, column shift.

Bringing up this old thread. I found it searching for tires. I love this place! "and amazing in the wet" is just what I was looking for!

I prefer the black look. The windshield trim looked pretty good before I painted it. I am open to leaving the trim above/below the grill chrome for some contrast. When washed those two pieces look pretty good. I do have some old chrome polish I could use on the top piece to see if it will clean up a little better.

I am looking for suggestions and advice on what colors/finish to use on my Comanche's trim and bumpers. I think I want to use the Krylon Fusion Satin Black on the fender flares based on some feedback I have gotten from 89MJ, shelbyluvv, and WahooSteeler. My bumpers need to be freshened up, too. I think painting the plastic bumper end pieces/caps (don't know proper name) and the front bumper pads(?) to match the fender flares makes sense. Should the steel portion of the bumpers be glossy black? I happened upon this thread of the 22K mile Comanche, and the bumpers seem shinier than satin though maybe not all out gloss. Well, after watching the "time capsule" video linked in that thread, the bumper looks more satin than it does in the still photos. Just use the same satin on the steel, too? Other parts I must paint: Headlight bezels (already black but look rough in lower corners) Chrome windshield trim (used SEM paint many years ago, and a lot has chipped off over time) Chrome strip that runs under grill Chrome strip that is between header and grill Maybe grill, though it is in really good shape as-is The plastic trim that covers the cab vents. Maybe the black mirrors to freshen them up I am curious how it will look if I hit it all with the same Fusion Satin Black. Attached is a photo showing where it stands now. I am curious how others have blacked out chrome while freshening up the parts that are black plastic.

I never really cared for Subaru's until the Crosstrek came along. I rubberneck every time I see a Crosstrek, and the appreciation for them has me liking all Subaru's now. My DD is a 2017 KL Cherokee Trailhawk. I love everything about it except a front end rattle that the dealer can't figure out. Started when it was 6 months old. I hear it on every other bump I hit. I have visions of jumping it Dukes of Hazzard style into FCA headquarters in Auburn Hills, MI. My other DD is a 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo Freedom Edition 4.7L HO that I bought a week or two before the 2005s hit showrooms. I had loved the WJ since I saw a photo of one in 1998. It was great getting one at the last chance with $8K off sticker!!! My mom's DD is a '93 ZJ I bought in summer 1996. Where has the time gone? Both Grand's are 2WD. It was awesome when I found my MJ in 2007, and it was 4WD. Finally, I owned a 4x4 Jeep! But I have never taken it off road, and now I don't have any plans to do so. I have taken my Trailhawk to Hot Springs ORV in Arkansas three times. It's stock with just the addition of Rocky Road Outfitter's "Super Sliders." One of the tougher Badge of Honor trails got me on the last trip. I hung it on a rock that stuck right up between the skid plates and cracked the catalytic converter when the post-cat pipe was shoved too hard. Other than that it's just got rock rash on the wheels.

Thanks guys!

Diaper is quite fitting! That's good to know I can get another. I grew up calling my wheels "10-spokes." My mom sold Jeeps then, and the two most common MJ/XJ wheels were called "10-spokes" and "5-spokes." The Turbines were my favorites back then, so I was quite happy when I found my MJ and that's what was on it. The 5-spokes seemed to be much more common on the XJs. I preferred the Turbines on XJs, too. Thankfully, the owner's manual was still with my MJ despite it being 20 yrs old when I got it and me being the 5th owner. Opened it up, and there was my mom's handwriting where she filled in the original owner's name. She had sold it! It seemed so old when I got it in 2007. It's hard to believe I've now had it going on 13 yrs!

Your MJ has a great stance, and your color plans will be the icing on the cake! I wish I had all the goodies to make mine into a Laredo, but I am rather content with it as-is + fresh paint. I need to do some research on the air dam and adding one to mine. There is some coarse leather-like thing that runs from just behind the bumper back into the suspension. It's torn and sags real bad. I've always wondered if it was factory or something home-crafted by a previous owner. Back to Fender Flares, I have some decisions to be making. I think whatever I do to them, I need to do to the bumper caps/ends.

That paint looks good on there Steeler!

I appreciate the added comments. That window looks good in the photo!

Thank you for the added replies. Smokeyyank, Can you tell me more about the bad fit of the CR unit? Did it look bad or was there any leaks or more potential for leaks down the road? I see the installation note for the CR window is "requires urethane adhesive." Looking back, had you had a standard 1 piece glass laying around, would you have wished you used it instead? Or was the fitment issue worth dealing with to have an opening window?

Hi jdog, thank you for the help.

My paint guy needed to remove my rear window to do a clean job. He found some rust in the lower corners, so it's good he called a glass guy to remove it. The removal process ruined the seal around the window. I had put silicone around it many years ago. I don't know if that made the removal harder or if the seal would have not survived either way. Here are some photos. I always assumed this sliding window was aftermarket, but I don't know. Whether factory or aftermarket, does anyone know the simplest way to replace the seal? The glass guy that pulled the window said he doesn't show any part listing anywhere if it is OEM. And he is concerned about finding a correct seal if it's aftermarket. If getting a good seal is not possible, are there any aftermarket rear window kits to purchase for these old trucks? I like having the sliding glass to open, but I could live with a solid piece. The glass guy said he can cut a custom piece, have it tempered, and then install it. The rough estimate is $250. I just hope someone can give me good advice for replacing the seal.

That's good info to know. The TJ looks sharp!

Thanks! I'd love to see photos. Love your avatar!!! I watched those two last night!!!

What did you ultimately do with your flares? Keep their plastic surface or paint them?

I'm bringing this topic back to life! I need to remove my '87 Sport Truck's flares. I assume those many 10 mm nuts are behind the plastic inner fenders. My inner fenders are very brittle. If I break the inner fenders, is it possible to replace them with something home-made? How does the flare attach to the mounting plates? I'll go ahead and plan on the nuts breaking off. The reason I need them off is to get my Comanche painted. My painter doesn't want to mask them off. He rather have them off the truck.

Thank you for the conversion advice and switch confirmation, Cruiser. Thanks for the option, Jeep Driver!

This is totally confusing..... The fan SWITCH is located just above the lower radiator hose on the radiator. Key On, unplug the switch and jumper the connector on the harness side. Fan should come on. Report back your findings and we'll figure this out. Hi Cruiser, I jumpered the connector with a paperclip, and the fan came on. Does this confirm the switch is the problem? I have had on the back burner the task to replace the radiator and all coolant hoses after deciding if I keep it closed system or convert to open. If the switch is the issue, will it carry over to a new radiator that is open? Or should I get an OEM closed radiator and use one of those parts where I add a filler/cap between two sections of upper radiator hose? Is 12V running through that switch, or by jumpering it was I just grounding the circuit? Depending on radiator advice and when I will do the replacement/swap, I am considering running a temporary manual switch to the connector.

I can't figure out how to post a photo. I just snapped two from the driver side of the block from underneath. Is the temp sensor the smaller one that is located higher up? I assume the lower/larger one is the knock sensor. As low as these are, I assume it's best to just remove the sensor and screw the new one in asap rather than bothering to drain coolant first. (on a cool engine!) Edit: I just disconnected the smaller sensor's plug (2 prongs), and I ran a grounded wire from the battery and touched each connector in the harness' plug, and the fan would not come on. I did this with the key ON and even with the engine running. Does this sensor circuit operate by grounding the circuit when the sensor reaches the ON temp? Is there a relay upstream for this circuit that is separate from the AC's control of the fan? Turning the AC on still kicks the fan on. Thank you.

Back in the winter, I let my Comanche idle for a while while talking to a neighbor about - The Comanche. The guy is probably 20-something, and he has a 2016 or so Wrangler. It was neat that he was digging the Comanche! I hopped back in and freaked when I saw the temp gauge getting up to 260. I immediately got it rolling, and airflow dropped the temp down to normal in a hurry. The electric fan will turn on if I turn on the AC, so I know it's okay. I am fairly certain the sensor that grounds at a set temp has failed. Where is this sensor located, and are their any brands recommended to buy or avoid? Is a Jeep part still available through Mopar? When I swapped to a full gauge cluster years ago, both the oil sending unit and temp sending units I got from Autozone failed within a year (coolant read super low on a normal temp engine, and the sending unit was leaking oil out the backside!). I figured I better ask for brand advice before getting this even more critical sensor. Thank you.

Thanks for the replies. Is the TruFit Walker's true OEM replacement down to the quietness? I bought my Comanche in 2007, and a prior owner had put something non OEM on it. It does idle louder than OEM, but it is the 1500 to 2000 rpm drone in 1st and 2nd gear that is on my last nerve after all these years. It just roars when I putt putt through my neighborhood. On the outside, the muffler on it now looks like a Flowmaster, but I know there are other brands with similar appearance. If not for the drone, the rest of the time doesn't sound half bad. Going back to OEM seems best. Any advice on other brands that have a true OEM sound is appreciated.

Do you by chance know the part number you are referring to for quieter one? I see a $35 Walker SoundFX that is #18387. Is Tru Fit the quieter one, #18113? When I look up both, they are approximately the same price at most vendors.

This project rocks! I admire your vision and eventual completion. :) I'm a muscle car fan, but Nissan is my favorite import, and I always thought the 240 car was a sharp vehicle.