87MJJeep

What is the correct way to check the voltage? Poke a multimeter's leads into the two wires going into the blower? Thanks!

I guess I am just a youn' grasshoppa when it comes to electrical stuff. I should have looked at the fuse first. It was melted. It was not too scorched, but there was some portion that was getting a little darker than its original shade. There was a 25A fuse in that slot. Is that the correct rating? I put the radio's 25A fuse in its place, and I have a blower again. I am concerned at what has caused it to get that hot. Any input is appreciated.

I just figured out how to jumper the blower. Connected to the battery, it blows just fine. The fact it doesn't blow on High speed rules out the resistor pack based on what I've read in other threads. Is that correct? Something occurred to me when I read this post in another thread: Thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/44026-new-blower-motor-not-functioningmust-be-something-else/?hl=clicking Post #21 http://comancheclub.com/topic/44026-new-blower-motor-not-functioningmust-be-something-else/page-2?do=findComment&comment=449499 Ever since I got my A/C working again two summers ago, the compressor cycles off and on a lot, and when it does, I hear a click around the passenger feet area. SInce this blower issue occurred when I switched to Defrost (which uses the compressor), I wonder if there is any connection...?

Today I was driving my '87 MJ 4.0, and when I changed from Vent or Heat to Defrost, the fan quit running. Flipping back to the other positions made no difference, but within a minute I could tell some air was moving again. It really feels like it was blowing the same speed on all 4 speed settings. At times it would stop completely, then start back up, but always at the really reduced speed. I took a 30 minute drive, and it was blowing at what seems to be either the lowest speed or a tad slower. At times I think it sped up a little but not much. Just before I got home, it quit blowing completely. No odd noises were heard. Is this the resistor pack I've read about in threads I just searched? Or would a motor behave this way? Where is the preferred place to get either of those parts? Thank you! Edit: there is a chance I changed the speed just before/after I changed the selector over to Defrost., Also, I noticed the voltmeter reading stays the same regardless of the speed position. It's not pulling the load it normally does when operating on High speed. I kinda think/assume a motor failing due to bearings dragging may draw more juice, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Edit: I just remembered that 1/2 a mile before this happened, I hit a huge puddle of water. Is it possible water could have gotten somewhere it shouldn't? The inop started only when I changed the settings. I can see where there is some dampness where the cowl meets the "shelf" just below the blower motor, but it's not soaked. Edit: one more! With Key On, Engine Off, I hear absolutely no sounds when I turn the heat on and change the fan speed. Whatever was intermittent seems to be totally dead now.

Tested in the wet today. Front brakes lock first. I'm good to go for now. I'll experiment some more when I have more time. If I can get repeatable results for given lever positions, I may rig up something where I can quickly switch between 2 or 3 positions.

Thanks for all of the replies. I lowered it down to horizontal, and no more rear lock up on dry pavement. It was the right rear that would lock easily under hard braking. It is supposed to rain here tomorrow, so I will get to test it in the wet, too. I could tell the overall braking was reduced a little, but having the rear end come loose is worse as far as I am concerned.

Thanks for the replies! I'll lenghthen the wire or find some zip ties to hold it horizontal then test on dry pavement. I never load the rearend, so I don't need the lever to function as designed. I had a set of heavier and meatier '93 ZJ Laredo wheels and 235 tires on it until just recently, and the stock '87 10-spoke wheels and cheaper brand tires weigh less. (acceleration was peppier with the swap!), so i know the rears will lock up even easier if I don't alter it from the current redneck setup. Does anyone think this valve needs to have the rear brakes bled after it's been in the WAY up position? Edit: If the valve dies after I mess with it due to the extreme position it's been in, does anyone know what pressure it defaults to? Low or high?

The previous owner of my '87 MJ put a 2" lift on it. He turned the lever all the way up (almost straight up vertical) and tied it there with chicken wire. It will lock the rear brakes easily in a panic stop on dry pavement, so I drive in the wet like a grandma. If I snip the chicken wire and let the lever go down to the normal horizontal position, will that be okay with a brake test before and after I make the change? I've read in threads I searched that it didn't take much travel of the lever to increase pressure. I wonder what effect being all the way up has had on it.

thanks Hillbilly!

Thanks, Scott!

I appreciate the replies. I saw "with shims" and "without shims" on one auto parts store's website. I did look at the pads carefully. The friction material is still mated to the pad back plates. I see calipers are not too pricey, and I need to replace the two front rubber hoses, so I'll get new calipers, too. I'll check on getting new bolts, too.

I just stumbled upon a possibly needed brake job while trying to figure out what I posted in this thread: I might as well freshen everything up. http://comancheclub.com/topic/44883-rearendaxle-or-brakes-making-a-noise-front-passenger-wheel-is-culprit/ On the passenger side caliper, I see where a prior owner or tech wrapped teflon tape around a bolt/pin. Is this advisable, or when I replace pads and rotors, should I fix this differently? See the photo below tef-tape2.jpg. As shown in the other thread, there are shims(?) behind the pads on both driver and passenger sides (see pics shims2 &3 ). Are they supposed to be there, or did someone put them in as a band-aid? Will a new set of pads come with them? If they are supposed to be there, why did they slide out of their correct location? Pads too thin or are clips missing? What store/brand brake parts have you Comanche owners had the best experience with? I'd like to replace the front rubber hoses, pads, and rotors.

I think I found the problem. There are shims (?) behind the pads, and they have slid inward toward the hub of the rotor. Both sides have done this, but the passenger side has a fresh cut line in the rotor. You can just barely see that shiny line in the second photo, shims2. In shims3.jpg, I tried to push them back fully behind the pad, but they bent. The driver side slid back where they belong. I will start a fresh thread with several brake questions.

There I went assuming again. I had my mom let it slowly roll down the street so I could listen more closely and count wheel revolutions per whine. It's the passenger side front wheel or brake. One thing I forgot to include in the first post... It doesn't make the noise in reverse. And no wonder it didn't make the noise when I had the rear end jacked up. LOL I sorta know my way around disc brakes. I'll report back later. If it is the 4wd ujoint at the wheel, that will be new ground for me. I see those two front axle joints do not have grease fittings. I hope it's the brake... Edit: I am fairly certain it is related to the rotor and pads. The pads have even wear (side to side and along the whole length of the pads). Before I took the tire/wheel off, I tried to see if they wobbled when gripped at the top and bottom. There was none. Would a wheel bearing seizing up make this noise and not create enough slack for the wheel to have play when tugged at the top and bottom?

I haven't inspected the brakes yet. Drum brakes have my number. If there is not something really obvious, I May overlook it. I wanted to arm myself with as much input before digging in there.

I never thought of the u joint. I'll take a look at it first. Thank you!

Just recently my Comanche has started making a noise at slow speed. I think I can still hear it at faster speeds, but at the higher frequency is it less audible over road and wind noise. The video linked below is 1.4MB. I held my phone out the rear window to record. See video attached. - I am doing about 1-3 mph. It's the loudest when I am barely rolling. - the noise stops with just a little brake pedal applied. Release brake and it's back instantly. - I think it is making the noise more than once per wheel revolution, but I am not 100% positive. - I am fairly sure it's the right side. - the first few times i heard it like this, it did it after the truck had been driven a few miles. I think it's worse now. I could barely hear it cold when I moved the truck in the driveway last weekend. - I hear it if I coast slow with trans in neutral. - I put the rear axle on jackstands, then put it into gear. The left wheel spun and the right barely turned. I didn't think too much of that. I've seen other vehicles do that... - I put a chock under the left tire to force the right side to spin. I could not hear the noise. I've wondered if it is related to the drum brakes since very light application of the brake makes the noise go away. I'm hoping it's not an axle seal/bearing. My dealership inspected and bled the brakes for me about 6-7 years ago as a precaution when I first got the truck. All was fine. It has only had about 8K miles put on it since then. I don't off-road. It's just my backup daily driver. There is a 2" lift on the truck. The previous owner that lifted it disconnected the rod that adjusts the rear brake pressure for varying loads in the bed. It appears to be zip-tied in the position that mimics a loaded bed. I can see how that leads to premature wear. Any advise is appreciated. rear-noise.mp4

I just wanted to post a late update. The right P/N o-ring that fit the fuel pressure regulator was found in the Fel-Pro 4-pk P/N ES-70599. ID is closest to 5/16" and the OD is approximately 9/16".

Thank you!

I appreciate the detailed reply. I tested the regulator tonight, and it's good! 31 or so psi with vacuum and 40 psi without vacuum! I'll tackle this Friday night or Saturday. If anyone in the meantime knows the exact size of the o-rings, I'll get them ahead of the disassemly.

Thanks for the quick reply. Are any special tools needed? I see how the fuel line snaps into the inlet. How does it attach to the rail? Can those be replaced without removing the rail from the intake and injectors?

I forgot to ask where should I look for any parts I need. Is this dealer only stuff? If so, is it hard to find?

My '87 4.0 has developed a drip from the round thing at the front of the fuel rail. It's the thing that has a vacuum(?) fitting on the side closest to the valve cover. From my first look, it appears that part is a part of the fuel rail. Is it serviceable on its own? Is a leak here common? Can someone tell me what all needs to be replaced? Any adjacent parts that are wise to replace at the same time? Thanks!

Thank you for the help. I will send you a PM. I still have warranty left, but I'd like to see what I can determine myself. I suspect the sound I hear is the thermostat you referenced.

When I was driving in the hot weather, I'd say it cycled once per minute, maybe twice. Maybe the last bit, it would cycle up to three times in a minute. With the defrost the last few days, I'd guess it cycled as often as once every 10-15 seconds. Where is the relay you're thinking about? What controls the relay? In hot weather, it definitely cycled less with it on A/C vs. MAX A/C. I sorta assumed that was due to MAX A/C running colder, and it was cycling out of necessity by design, so with it running on regular A/C and cooling the incoming outside air, the sensor(?) wouldn't call for it to cycle as much.