87MJJeep

Thank you for the explanation. I'll ask the shop to check the charge level and maybe add a dye to determine where it's leaking if that is what's going on. The vacuum operated air controls work fine. It blows where it should for each setting. One of the duct "doors" squeaks when it closes. That's the only thing wrong in that regard. It's just odd I hear that click every time the compressor cycles. To my ears, it is a very flimsy click. Like small metal pieces coming together or similar to the sound plastic makes if you break it. Maybe it is the clutch, and just doesn't sound as "solid" on inside of the truck.

I just remembered something that may be useful. When there were still summer temps, it seemed like the compressor cycled less frequently if I ran A/C instead of MAX A/C.

I had a new compressor put on back in the summer (and converted to R-134a), and after about two weeks of blowing really cold and continuously, the compressor seemed to start cycling - or cycling more. I can't recall if it cycled any while the air felt cold 100% of the time. After a while, I realized I hear a flimsy clicking sound that seems to be in sync with the compressor's cycling. Click on and click off. If it is the A/C clutch cycling, I would be surprised, because the sound is so distinct, and I would bet money it is coming from behind the dash or over the passenger kick panel. I wondered if there is any sensor/switch that is mounted on the evaporator that would make such a noise and send a signal to cycle the compressor. When the compressor is on, the air out of the middle vent with it set to MAX A/C gets down between 40-45F. It does the same clicking/cycling now that I am using the defroster. Thanks for any input.

Check this thread too: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=30657 And this one: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15074&hilit=ohms+temp Note Hornbred's post at Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:16 pm:

Check this out. A post by Eagle in thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31282

Ya aren't kidding. :( Here I am a year later, and I figured out my oil leak. It's the AZ oil sending unit. OEM, here I come.

Surely you mean .035" :yes: LOL I think I'll try 0.35". I'll lean out the A/F mixture and run several coils in parallel. 100 mpg, here I come! :rotf:

Thanks guys!

Agreed!

Thanks! That'll save a few pennies! Is the consensus that Factory spec gap and heat range is best?

Thanks for the help! I kinda figured anything new is better than what's in there. I didn't have Seafoam on the agenda, but it had crossed my mind. Thanks for the alert to do that before changing plugs! I'm crushed, I wanted to put a set of Splitfires in there. j/k! Thanks for the advice to get platinum. I didn't know if that was advisable or regular style were fine.

I had success cleaning the contacts with a small piece of fine grit sandpaper folded and wrapped around a toothpick. It took more effort than I thought, but it finally worked.

I can't answer your questions, but if they fit and you put them on the MJ, post pics! I have '93 ZJ wheels on my Comanche (and Comanche "10 spokes" on my ZJ!) FYI, the '99-'04 Grand Cherokee is the WJ. ZJ is the first gen only ('93-'98).

Does anyone that puts a lot of miles on their Comanche have any advice on what brand of parts to get or to avoid? (cap, rotor, plugs, and wires) Is there anything else ignition-related to replace during a tune up?

Thanks for the added info! I will probably go that route this coming spring!

Thanks for the reply. Yesterday the shop told me the AZ part had a 12 month warranty like the NAPA part, but I saw only 3 month warranties on AZ's website. They checked again this morning, and they said I was right. I had wondered if AZ was giving a repair shop a longer warranty, but apparently the first sales guy gave my shop bad info. There's no way I am putting a 3 month warranty compressor on just in time for winter! I bought the truck in Sept-07, and part of the negotiations was dropping $200 off the price since the air was blowing partly cold. I never had it checked until a little over a week ago. It was nice having it for a week, but it's not a priority. Though driving it with my windows up was really nice! I'll check around and see if I can find a shop that rebuilds compressors and line up the work for the spring. I may consider getting one of those units from Jeepair.com.

Thanks for the advice! The only kits I have seen are for all of the system's connections. Is there a separate kit for the compressor? This is sad and surprising about napa. :(

My shop told me my compressor is the source of my leak (it was recharged with dye a little over a week ago - that lasted all of 4 commutes to work and back). I was told if I can locate a compressor seal kit, I can do it myself and then this shop will recharge the system (they don't want to rebuild(?)/re-seal the compressor). Has anyone ever done that with a factory compressor? I'm tempted to give them the go ahead on a reman compressor and be done with it. Oddly enough, this shop is partnered with NAPA, but they are suggesting I authorize them to get a Autozone compressor instead (~$100 less). They said they are having difficulty getting NAPA to stand behind their warranty on covering labor when there's a failure during the 12 month warranty period. Any advice is appreciated.

As someone else said, it's Plug n Play, and Plug is the key word. The harness has a plug that snaps into the back of the cluster (it presses against the flex circuit that is on the backside of the cluster). Now that you're not fighting with the harness holding the cluster a few inches from the dash, just gently pull/unsnap the donor plug out of your "new" cluster. You now have room to work. Splicing the new wires to your own wires is unncessary when you can get that plug out of the donor cluster with a little more effort. Correct on just two sending units. Just oil and temp, and thankfully they are easy to get to on these engines! I would recommend you upgrade them asap so you have some means of knowing if there's a oil pressure or temp problem. I would disconnect the water temp sending unit wire (pull it off the sending unit). I think the idiot light sending unit will cause the temp gauge to peg. I rather that gauge have no signal until it gets the correct signal to be safe.

I did that swap. If the donor had the same number of engine cylinders as yours, you're good to go. If it's different, you will have to adjust the tach. Oh, I just replaced the temp sending unit with a dealer part. If you didn't grab that off the donor, I recommend getting the OEM Mopar part. My Autozone sending unit (possibly Wells brand) didn't last but about 8 months and 2K miles. :(

Thanks for the help!

I will be flushing mine transfer case sooner than later. Is there a specific torque spec, and is one of the Loctites recommended?

I was looking through this thread again, and I see where no one commented on that question. Is the newest Dexron fine, or do we have to hunt for an older grade?

I'll roll it down and carefully watch and see if any gets near where that block was. Thanks for the help!

I'll take a closer look. I didn't notice anything in there that appeared to rest on the bottom.