87MJJeep

That's good to know!

I am not sure about the smaller section being removable. I hope someone that has messed with theirs before chimes in. I think the lettering is silver.

Wow. That's incredible.

I'm a definite buyer for the size made for 10 hole Eliminator wheels. The entire cap is approximately 64 mm in diameter. The center part is approximately 43 mm. Please let me know if you need more detail or better photos.

That's a nice cross-reference! I wouldn't expect a part on a RENIX system to be the same as a GM unit. But I am not surprised.

The GP Sorensen part's groove width was slightly narrower than the Standard part. It definitely kept the O-ring more perpendicular to the axis. I did use silicone lube on each O-ring. Never would of thought of trying to swell an O-ring. Good to know!

I ended up getting the GP Sorensen FPR at Autozone for $86. 3 yr warranty and 2 miles from home. I would have gotten the Wells (lifetime warranty) at Advance with the 15% off code, but the closest one to me turned out to not exist. They cancelled my online order after I got the "your order is ready" email. The 2nd closest was 30 minutes away. When I told the guy I was ordering it and would come get it, he pulled it from inventory (in their computer). My shopping cart *instantly* went red where that part was now unavailable. I asked if he just "pulled it" and he confirmed he had. I told him I couldn't order it. He put it back into the system. I waited two hours, and it still was not available. I wasn't driving an hour round trip to pay full price (he said they couldnt honor the online discount for walk-in customers). And today, nearly 24 hrs later it's not appearing as available. It's always a drama working on cars...

That makes good sense! I got another new FPR last night, so all is well now. I wish I had gotten fed up with the long cranking sooner for the starter and battery's sake. At least I got it solved now the temps are dropping, and the oil will be maxing out the 15 in 15W-40. I noticed it was cranking a little slower this past week.

Thank you! I wondered if there was a built-in way to clear a flood like the carb days!

I have experienced for a while the long crank time, when my 4.0 has sat anywhere from 30 minutes to 6-7 hrs. But stone (overnight) cold, it fires up as it's supposed to with just a few spins. When it would have the long crank times, once it did start, I usually smelled gas in the exhaust. Just like the engine was getting flooded. I found this thread on a Jeep site from 2011: 87 Cherokee 4.0L - hard to start when hot | Jeep Enthusiast Forums Eerily the same issue. That Cherokee owner replaced all sorts of parts, but he finally determined it to be the fuel pressure regulator (post #8). All last week, I pulled the vacuum line off the regulator when I arrived at work. When it was time to go home, it started up just fine. Two days I could smell gas when I walked up to it to leave. One time I disconnected the line from the intake and left it on the regulator. There was gasoline residue on the end of the hose fitting where it had burped fuel far enough to the other end of the line. What's odd is it doesn't leak immediately after shutting down. The regulator's internal leak must be slow. Of course, my replacement FPR leaks *externally* hence my other thread... I'm back to pulling my vacuum line each time I park it.

I changed out my fuel pressure regulator this weekend with a Standard Ignition brand PR21. It is what O Reilly’s and Amazon sell. There were a few bad reviews on Amazon, but so many more were positive that I tried it. One reviewer posted a video showing a fine line of fuel spraying out of the side of the body. Ultimately, I had a similar occurrence, but only saw it three times out of well over 2 dozen Key ON primes. And my spray line was so fine, it looked as thin as a strand of hair. What was consistent is a leak at the connection to the fuel rail. Within seconds of priming, it's dripping. What is perplexing is the fact that upon installation, it seemed to be OK for a little while. I drove it quite a bit Saturday and all was well, but Sunday I could smell some fumes in my garage, so I Keyed ON and from that point on, I got a leak every time. Thankfully, it didn’t leak when I had last driven it. I put the original regulator back on, but first I compared the two. The diameter of the groove that the O-ring rests in was 8.48 to 8.51 mm on the original, and it was as low as 8.41 on the Standard PR21. Also, the width of the groove on the OEM part was just wide enough for one O-ring to fit in the groove. The Standard PR21 groove width is wide enough to fit maybe another 1/3 of the O-ring’s thickness. So, I am curious what contributed to the leak at the fuel rail. Is it the slightly smaller diameter mating to the inside diameter of the O-ring, or once pushed into the fuel rail, is the O-ring cocked at a slight angle due to the width of that groove? The Standard is made in China. It was ~$50 on Amazon, and sells for ~$84 at O’Reilly’s. (not to be confused with Standard “economy” model, PR21T. It’s $37 on Amazon.) There is a Wells brand at Advance Auto, limited lifetime warranty. The one photo doesn’t let me see how wide the O-ring groove is, but the shape of the casting where the vacuum fitting sticks out tells me it is not the same part as Standard. Similarly, there is a GP Sorensen model at Autozone (3 yr warranty) for $85 that is different in appearance from both the Standard and the Wells. I can even see “MADE IN USA” on the GP Sorensen. It’s also hard to tell the groove width in its photos. I know most people shy away from Autozone parts, but the Made in USA has me considering it. I’m curious if anyone has any experience with the GP Sorensen or Wells parts. If not, my next step is to go to each store with calipers in hand and ask if I can look and measure the parts before purchase. I know NAPA is popular here. NAPA carries Echlin, but the body/casing and stamped # on the part in their photos looks exactly like the Standard PR21. Even the photo NAPA includes for instructions is exactly the same as what came with the Standard part. The second photo is of the Standard PR21 that I grabbed off Rock Auto. You can see the how much the O-ring can move in the groove in that photo.

Woohoo!

That's the coolest thing I have seen/heard about for a good while!

That looks very nice. Pretty cool considering your dash!

Alright! Hopefully, it will run OK!

That's a pretty color, but so close to black.

That's interesting! I look forward to your update!

Carbs are pretty cool devices, but they are greek to me. Hats off to you for tackling the dinosaur-era magic device yourself!

That looks really good, @OldSch88L I am not totally content with satin black on my grill and other front trim. I am kicking around looking for an '88+ grille and maybe paint it to match body color, but the graphite color is tempting!

I don't think the plumber's putty will remain soft indefinitely when subjected to high underhood temperatures. I'd use silicone caulking or something else similar.

@Rubikahn, please update us once you have repainted the parts!

Thank you!

Hi Cruiser, You didn't mention a filter change. Is there a reason? What would you recommend for ~84K miles on what may or may not be the original trans fluid? I've owned it since 2007 when it had 71K miles. One of the previous owners is the 2nd generation of a repair shop. I don't know if he changed it before selling it to the guy I bought it from. The fluid color and smell is fine. I know with some older automatics, a fluid/filter change creates problems when the friction material is lost. Is that the case for these AW4s? Thank you.

My 93 ZJ 4.0 slaps a LOT more than my '87 MJ. My '87's slap sounds more like "knocking" than "slapping" if that makes sense. Even my '04 4.7L HO also has some slap. But none slap like my my 2001 LS1 Trans Am. At an event at the Corvette museum in Bowling Green back in the day, one of the GM guest speakers listened to it. He was some really high up Quality guy. He said, "Yes, you have piston slap. And loose wrist pins. And a noisy valvetrain, too. Just keep Mobile 1 in it, and you'll be fine." It's been beat on in 12 road course events since 2002. It's fine. Noisy engines have character.