chicofuentes0224

Ok, on the gauge 180* =.205 210* =171.1 running temp =119.5 I'll check them again in an hour to make sure I get numbers close to that to make sure I didn't mess it up.

Stick the negative on the sensor brass case; that's the ground conductor. You didn't wrap the threads with an insulator like teflon tape when you installed it did ya? Nope, didnt use teflon tape. So to get this staight. At 180 I'm gonna pull the wire. Touch the positive to the tip if the sender and the negative to the brass base? Then, I'm going to repeat at 210 and at running temp? Did I get it right?

Ok tip of the sensor was 36 to 47 depending where I stuck the negative to on the ground braid.

Well, I know for a fact that the last gauge you put in was calibrated correctly. :chillin: Here's what you can do. Start your engine up. When the temp gauge indicates 180*, disconnect the wire from the temp thermister and accurately measure the resistance between the thermister tip and ground. Stick the wire back on, and repeat at 210* then at normal running temperature. Let me know what these three resistance readings are. Not going to tell you what they should be so you're not looking for a certain resistance. :D Yeah, uhhh Donnie. I'm getting a big fat 0 at all three temps, am I doing something wrong? You did say to measure the resistance at the wire right, or am I actually suppose to measure the tip of the sensor coming outta the head? Edit: I measured at the tip of the sensor coming outta the head and at running temp it fluctuates between 36 and 47 :nuts:

Open air elements do in fact add horsepower and torque. However for our trucks they're not worth the money. Here's the reason. The small percentage that they add (3%-7%) is not noticeable until you hit about 65 MPH. Nobody in this club really ventures beyond this speed in our trucks because we don't use them as race cars. Even then the only real way to take advantage of the gains would be to ram cold air either through a hood scoop or with plumbing that hits the filter coming from the bottom of the truck. Actually using it in our trucks really hurts both HP and torque due to the fact that the system is sucking in hot air out of the engine bay which we all know is hotter than a lot of other car's engine bays. So unless you plan on making a street comanche running a Hemi don't bother with either one because you'll actually do more hurt than good. I've run K&N sysytems in VW's and took them all to get tested on Dyno's and these are the results I got. Also if you do run it I would relocate the filter over to where the battery sits to get it as far away from the manifold as possible and build some kind of wall around it to seperate it from the engine bay heat. Edit: Hornbrod's stroker or a supercharged engine or turbo would be a great candidate for this system but you also have to add a free-flowing exhaust to fully gain the advantages of it. (Actually I just read Adam's post, so yeah like he said)

I think you can take the locks out, take them to a locksmith and they should be able to make you a new key.

Yeah, this site rocks. And the good news is next year due to inflation, the economy, politics, the price of gas, the positioning of the solar system,and the mark up on can cozies our membership dues will only be $103.45 per year. Credit cards and money orders accepted gladly. Sorry, no personal checks. Please PM Pete your bankcard numbers or paypal addies pronto. We still gotta pay for last months beer bill, not to mention the tan couch the new guys keep falling asleep on is starting to smell like poo. We could sure use a new one.

JT, I looked up the article I was thinking about but like they said it was basically rebuilt with stronger parts.

nope not jeff, I met the guy while I was trail guiding there. His rig is set up very nice with ox lockers and regeared to 4.56s I believe. Yes but did you give him a card? :D

You know i've reread the whole post and realized nobody said anything about salt. The best beer when it's over 89* is a ice cold Corona that's temperature is between 33*-35* with a thin wedge of lime and SALT. It will cure any thirst. Try it next time you come in from the heat, but it's gotta be at that temp :cheers:

Did everyone see the picture of #24 over in classifieds. TheJeepNut owns it. If you check out the pictures in his flicker account you'll see the plaque on the dash. The interior looks nice.

Good eye Jaekl. Something does smell fishy. This looks like a job for Scooby-Dooby-doo........... I bet ya at the end the monster will be demasked and it'll end up being either an alien...or the FBI ...and he would have gotten away with it if it hadn't be from those dang meddling ComancheClub.com kids... :jump:

Maybe this should be in a sticky somewhere on the forum (or is it already)...pretty cool... I agree.

Good eye Jaekl. Something does smell fishy. This looks like a job for Scooby-Dooby-doo........... I bet ya at the end the monster will be demasked and it'll end up being either an alien...or the FBI

You know, I just took a magnifing glass to those pics. I changed my mind. I'll give him 4 grand unless he can come up with a better list of crap he's done.

So whats you High Bid gonna be Chico? What do you mean? What I think it'll go for. $7500. I'd pay 5 if I had the time to fly to Cali and make sure evrything he said was true. I'd never buy from Ebay without looking at it first. That's how I got stuck with my monster.

Thing is, I doubt any one on this forum would spend the amount of money that he wants. However, do you remember the one that sold a little while ago for 7 large on Ebay. That one was supposedly cherry and low mileage. I don't remember what it went for the second time it was on. But now listen. You figure you're gonna spend $1000 on buying a half decent Comanche in OK shape. They're all 20 years old. If nothing has been replaced you're gonna end up doing it all yourself like I'm doing. I've already spent 4-5 grand between truck and parts and I'm not even halfway done with the "restoration". So if you reeealy want a Comanche and don't feel like playing mechanic and this guy is being honest in his statement that this is the best Comanche on the planet originality wise, asking 5-6 grand is not outta the question. Now anything from there is whether or not people truly want to start fighting for this truck. It's got eight days left and there are already 19 bids which means a crapload of "lurkers" are watching. I see the bidding getting high. And to be honest from the tone of his description he sounds like he's talking to anyone on this forum which leads me to believe he's a member here. So if you're listening California Comanche Man. Come out with your hands up and give up the Comanche. Damn FBI and aliens....illegal or otherwise :rant:

$2650.00 19 bids...8days 10 hours left..... Let's go team... let's go I got a good idea.. Everyone start guessing what the final sale will be for. That is if he doesn't pull it first. I'm guessing $7500.

OK, thanks :thumbsup:

yeah, I think so JT. I'll see if I can find the JP article on it....

For those who don't, TMI stands for three mile island, our local nuclear powerplant that went to crap back in the late 70's and made everyone around here crazy. It's a good start definitely but you're right, it's a little bright. So now I'm thinking an orange like beater's pic and the bottom trim a light grey. Anybody up for it? I'm not asking for much am I? :D

Yeah, I thought the price was extremely reasonable.

That looks great! Thanks guys. Beater, what orange is that? By the way free pizza fer both of ya! :D

And I always thought she'd gotten rich from being a porn star :clapping:

I tried to download the program from Wade's post but for some reason my computer's not getting it. I'm trying to see what Kubota tractor orange or maybe a lighter shade would look like. Free lunch at the pizza shop to whoever get's it done. :D