chicofuentes0224

:roll: I think he's passed out now................ :nuts: That's funny. He had a couple posts over a couple threads that started getting, how you say in your country, not so nice. But I just read over his 26 posts and he seemed like a nice guy. Must be to much Bud Light Lime. Damn you BLHTAZ :laughin:

Here we go again, (Rocky's theme song is playing in the background) Hey Ex, I don't even think Motion posted anything on this thread. :nuts: Did ya mean to post this somewhere else?

Chico........Is that in case your steering column "fires" up again :teehee: That and crazy ex-girlfriends still carrying long forgotten gripes :rotfl2:

Yep, that way I'm in no way forced to give anyone a ride :rotfl2:

Did you get the front end alligned?

Yeah, well I started blowing coolant out of the top of the expansion tank and I hit it with the laser thermo again and the outside of the thermostat housing is reading 217* to 225*. The engine bay is noticeably hotter now and due to the lack of carpet/insulation I can feel every degree :headpop: :grrrr: Anyway, the system's not under pressure anymore so I'm sure that's one cause of my engine running hot. What's upsetting though is that this is my 3rd plastic tank bottle with the same issue causing me to believe that maybe, just maybe, I might have a blockage problem somewhere. Anyway the good news is ,all that's left in the coolant system if this doesn't work out is a new radiator and waterpump :brows: And hey MV, thanks fer cutting in, I was starting to get cotton mouth. :D

Ordered some parts today for my cooling issue. From Teamcherokee.com Heater conrol valve= $39.95 http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/847.html Heater hoses w/tee= $84.95 http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/1763.html From Mac's Aluminum expansion tank= $122.00 http://www.macsradiator.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=28&HS=1

We're pretty much up to date. A couple current problems have popped up. Problem #1: The truck is running above 210* but under 225*. Possible solutions include flushing out the system replacing hoses and changing out my plastic expansion tank for an aluminum one. We'll see how that goes. Problem #2 When I went to remove the carpet to replace the interior parking brake cable I found an extreme amount of rust. As I pulled out the carpet a couple of pieces of the floor board went with it. :headpop: Haven't decided yet but it's either going to get fixed with POR-15 and tape, or new pieces will be welded on. I'll post pics in a while.....

Sometime early 2008. New exhaust manifold Down pipe exhaust manifold, gasket egr valve, gasket, and related crap June 2008 New rear shoes, springs, wheel cylinders and parking brake cables.

Here's a pic of the cluster with the gear shift indicator cut out. I'm actually changing it back and adding what Hornbrod has on his.

Looked pretty good. Auction ends, I show up with the money and everything is not as described. The new paint job I believe was done with a roller. The interior looked well worn (it was to be expected) but what really killed me was the smell of $#!& that came with it. Oh well, I took it home and started my project. August 24, 2007 Before I found this site I took my cars to a couple differnt mechanics. I dropped the truck of with one and told him to give it a good look over. Front calipers were on upside down. Both front brake lines were replaced. Passenger front u-joint was shot. Both were replaced. Transfer case fluid replaced. Transmission flushed, pan removed, no debris was found. Replaced filter kit, cleaned pan and system refilled. There was a noice coming from the front of the engine. Harmonic Balancer replaced. September 20 2007 The $#!& hit the fan. The PO had the horn wired to a seperate button on the dash because the original was not working. What actually happened was that the wires in the steering culumn got old and lit up. This burnt the whole interior and under harness to one big plastic and wire mess :headpop: A used harnes was pulled out of a 1988 Cherokee. Dismantling and instalation took me close to 100 hours :eek: I can probably do it again in 5. The only set back was that the connect on the interior harness that goes to the fuel pump and rear lights is differnt causing me a good week of headaches trying to splice wires. Replaced part of the rear brake lines after a section blew. Replaced all exterior light bulbs. September 26 2007 Truck is back on the road. DW has appeared. Steering box was adjusted due to play in steering wheel. Found the track bar was junk. New track bar. September 27, 2007 Vibs are still there. Found out front brakes were locked up. New master cylinder. October 24 2007 Replaced all the emission hoses with parts from NAPA. (I'm going to switch em out again. I don't like the quality) Put in a full gauge cluster. Changed the temp sender on the back of the head. Added the oil pressure sender by the filter. November 2 2007 New TPS, adjusted it with instuctions on CC. New O2 sensor. November 8 2007 New spark plug wires Distributer cap Rotor Spark plugs November 28 2007 Went to replace thermostat and found there was none. :nuts: New thermostat. New CTS New Knock sensor December 1 2007 Replaced 6 relays in the engine bay December 4 2007 New electric fan switch December 10 2007 New CPS January 14 2008 New injectors from Precision Auto January 21 2008 DW's back. Balanced the tires. Found two wheels to be bent causing the vibes. January 28 2008 New MAP sensor New MAT sensor February 16 2008 New Monroe sensa-trac shocks March 14 2008 Bought a set of used wheels from LEAD not FOLLOW. Had the truck alligned and wheels balanced. No more DW. :D Here's the pic

Here's the pics from Ebay.

Thread is under construction. This thread is more for myself at the moment because when asked the other day I couldn't remember if something had been done or not causing me to ransack a manila folder I have that didn't even contain the answer I needed. I'm not really going into detail on what I've done since August of 2007 except post a couple pics and write down what has been replaced. Some of the repairs were done by myself and others by worthless mechanics. The DIY parts were done with the help of Alldata.com and the wonderful members of this club. Once again, thanks to everyone who helped me out this far. I'll probably forget half the stuff I've done due to the lack of receipts so I'll be adding crap as I remember. The 1988 4.0 AW4 LWB was purchased August 16 2007 off of eBay. It had roughly 210,00 miles. The pictures on eBay looked good. It was advertised as recently painted, with everything in good working order. Not so much.......

Wait is that a 97+ front end or did you just put clear side marker lights on?

Yup, that's just plain wrong :rotfl2:

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8093 You're going to need either MJ bucket brackets or adapt the brackets on the bottom of your bench. There is a really good write up. Or you could fab something up with the XJ brackets you have and put new studs/bolts. You're going to have to mess around with the floor pan though.

Chrome

Hacksaw the metal band off the hose. No, my recovery bottle inlet is at the bottom. The clear hose you see is the overflow outlet, but I typically keep the bottle so it's about 1/3 full when cold, so there isn't any overflow. Mine is the exact same bottle used in the markashurst kit linked to earlier in this thread. Note that he doesn't have a hose on the overflow. Got it. thanks guys :D

Adjustable control arms, upper and lower. That way you can change em around as you change the height of your lift. X2 on the buy quality parts.

This was actually going to be part of my Moroso tank thread but I thought I'd start a new one for anyone else who runs a search on this topic later. I bought a T-fitting kit so I can flush out my coolant system with a garden hose. I've figured out what hose to cut and install the T-fitting. I'll post pictures when I actually do it. My question is, to properly flush out the entire sysytem using this method, should I disconnect the hose at the bottom of the expansion tank or a differnt hose?The directions are for an open system so while the garden hose and engine are running, the crap in the system will fly out of the top of the radiator. Would letting the crap fly out of the hose to the bottom of the expansion tank have the same effect or should I do something differnt?

Eagle any chance you can tell me how to disconnect the hoses that are held on by crimps? I take it they came like this from the factory? It seems like I need to put on a longer hose from the upper left hand side of the Moroso tank to where it connects to the system. I also see that your overflow catch boottle takes in coolant from the top of the bottle. Pike up there says that will cause a problem. I take it that it doesn't?

So PIKE, to get this staight all I have to buy is the tank, the overflow catch bottle and a hose to connect the two. All other fittings and hardware are included?

It might be pricey, but it's not much more than I paid for my Moroso one. After buying the fittings to go in the bungs and the radiator cap I paid $120. I'm sure prices have gone up since you bought yours Eagle or maybe I just got ripped off. I still have to buy the overflow catch bottle, two hoses, and some kind of bracket, screws, and clamps to put everything back together. I'm sure I'll get close to that price after everything is said and done. Maybe I'll just take mine back and order that one. Pike, how long have you been running that and any problems with it? And X2 on the pics. :cheers:

That's fantastic PIKE. You couldn't have posted that up 71 threads ago? :rotfl2: Seriously, does that have two holes and fittings for the regular coolant hoses and one for the overflw catch tube bottle?

Really, how things change. I was watching Blue's Clues this morning with my two year old and they dedicated 15 minutes of the show to sitting on the toilet. What to use to wipe yourself and what to do with the stuff in the toilet when you're done. I'd rather watch Cookie Monster eat his pipe.