chicofuentes0224

If you're going for the 31x10.5x15 on stock rims just get the WJ (I think) lower control arms that have the bend in em or do like MV says and adjust the steering stops.

Cursing some more usually does it fer me.

You can fit 31" tires with a couple little issues. Decide how wide you want em and everyone will tell you what you need. The tires in my avatar are 31x10.5x15. (No rubbing on the lower control arms but they're ripping up my front fenders due to backspacing on the rims.)

PM sent homey :D

If you use the XJ interior harnes in the MJ you're going to have to start cutting and splicing wires at the connector that goes back the the taillights and fuel pump. The connector is differnt.

Yeah, I started playing with this last night again. Changed out the sensor for another one fom Autozone to see if it would make any differnce at all. Nothing. Still reads high. Don, do you have a whole other cluster with a cable driven speedo I can buy from you. I vaguely remember my temp gauge working correctly on the second cluster I had in there. It's oil gauge was shot but the temp worked right. I made the mistake of letting my two year old work on it with my drill :roll: . After I change it out if I still get a whacked reading I'll start ripping the harness apart and figuring out what's wrong. I'm gonna get this stinkin gauge to work if it kills me :wall: Then I'll start working on the dumb crap like you know, brakes, tierods, engine :rotfl2:

Thanks fer the links guys. I called Advance Auto yesterday. They'll have it in store in two days. $16.84 after tax. Napa's was in the $30.00 range.

$4650. 3 hours 36 minutes left.

Well, pulled the new defective cable out. Put a new one in. Started adjusting it under the truck. After about 10 tries the rear wheels started locking up again and the cables wold not release. Took the cable out again to find out that not only was it not passing thru the housing again but the actual housing split where the cable was unraveling itself. It's official. I'm done with NAPA parking brake cables. :headpop:

Is this what's considered a 9"axle? There's one close to me for sale for $250 with 4.10 gears. It's outta an explorer. Would it fit under the Comanche with minimal fuss and do ya think it's reasonably priced? It has 31 spline axles and is a non-posi and is out of a 1999 ford model year.

It's easy to spend $10,000 if you're replacing everything that's twenty years old and PAYING someone to do it for you. Mechanics labor rates are high now. Lowest I've seen is $55. Highest is $110 an hour. I bet you the $10,000 is from initial purchase price of the vehicle, normal part replacement and the money he had to pay a mechanic to do it. Like I replaced my rear brakes and parking brake lines. I got an estimate from two local shops that wanted between $600-$750 for parts and labor. And that didn't even include the actual drums because mine were fine. I ended up doing it myself and saved a lot of money on my car insurance. :D

Hey Pat, it's wednesday. I don't wanna harrass ya man but the suspense is killing us :D

Oh good, so it's either 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 :rotfl2:

Well, found the problem. After taking everything apart in the rear and verifing that it matched those pictures and making sure the rear cables weren't binding up I moved on to the front cable. Jeff the line wasn't pinched under the bracket. Ends up the front cable is binding up inside the sheath. I disconnected it from the junction block, pulled it back thru the cab and tried to move it by hand. No dice. Looks like I'm going back to the store to get a new one. I'm seriously contemplating never returning to the local auto parts stores. It seems half the crap I've bought at either NAPA or Autozone has either been defective or the wrong part alltogether. :mad:

Sounds good. Thanks bud, I'll let you know what happens :thumbsup:

No, I'm driving it. I'm gonna take the drums apart sometime this week and really look at it well. I think I just messed it up some how. It's not draging right now because I manually released the parking brake from underneath the truck. I'll let you guys know where I goofed and take pictures.

So Don, I was reading the gauge wrong, On the gauge 180*=2320 ohms 210*=179.1 ohms running temp=119.5 ohms I had it verified by someone who knows what they're doing. So I guess the sensors are calibrated wrong right? Like you said, guess I'll get one from Taz.

You know those look great. What progran are you guys using?

Yup. I think Jaekl hit this one on the nose. I think it's the spring in the drums. I'm gonna take it apart again to looksie............

Here, let me add this too. After I press the pedal down. Then release the e-brake it pops back up but there is 2-3" of play till the top. That is until I get back under the truck and pull on the cable coming from the cab, and then the pedal goes all the way to the top and there is no play. I'm leaning toward the pedal itself is jacked. Opinions?

I just replaced all three cables associated with the parking brake. At the same time I replaced the shoes, hardware and cylinders in the back since I had the drums apart. Everything worked fine yesterday. Today I go to leave my driveway (truck's facing a down ward slope) pull my e-brake off, throw it in drive and notice that without touching the gas the car would not roll down the hill. (Thought the parking brake was still on, but it wasn't) Ends up the back tires were locked up. I adjusted the nut at the junction box to give the e-brake lines more slack. It worked. Drove a while, put the ebrake on, let it go again, and the same thing happened. Got back under the truck, pulled on the cable coming from the cab and the ebrake let go. So in conclusion the e-brake is not working correctly when I pull the lever. It's not pulling the cables that go to the wheels back off the drums. 1)Is there suppose to be a spring at the junction box to pull the cables back? (There wasn't one there when I took the old ones off.) 2)Anybody got an idea where I goofed this up? (or is the new cab cable faulty) 2)

12-14 mpg. In town, 31x10.5x15, no lift 4.0 355 gears. Couldn't tell you highway. Never gotten the truck on a good long run. Oh 220,000 miles on the engine.

Yeah I'm gonna have to play with it some more tomorrow. It's too dark now and I can't see a thing a thing. Plus I really don't think I'm reading it correctly. I'm just giving out the numbers that are popping up on the screen.

I really hope that they catch the SOB blowfish that did this to you :rant:

Donnie, this was resistance test #2 On the gauge 180*=.232 210*=179.1 runing temp=119.5