chicofuentes0224

Yeah I'm buying that one next week. Story in a couple posts.

There's no redness to the dipstick. Compression test was done with engine cold from overnight wait. Cylinders 2-6 were all 150-160. Cylinder #1 was 135. The oil on the dipstick does smell like gasoline a little :dunno:

You're going to have to splice I think 5 or 6 wires

So, called NAPA today. 1988 radiator=$145 1992 radiator=$158 These are both aluminum with plastic ends. He then told me the 1992 also had a copper one w/brass ends for $210. He can't get it though. I take it the copper one is better? Anybody have any opinions? Later on, I called a friend who's a VW mech. He said don't spend the money on the radiator because he thinks the head gasket is blown. Told me to get a kit that hooks up to the coolont bottle and somehow changes color if there's a loss of compresion due to a head gasket leak. Anybody have any experience with this?

So Pete, what should I ask for at NAPA tommorow? A 91 or newer radiator for a 4.0 automatic.

If I get one with a radiator cap don't I have to change evrything else over to the newer style though? At the begining of the week the gauge would read a bit over the 210 mark I used a laser thermometer to point at the sensor on the head. It said anywhere from 215 to 225. Tonight the gauge is almost in the red and the same spot/laser thermometer is reading 230 to 245. :eek: However nothing is leaking/system is under pressure and the big reason I think it's blocked is because the fan isn't turning on until it gets really really hot (wasn't like that before). The temp at the fan switch is perfectly normal (160-180).

The days here have been getting warmer. So has the MJ. My truck's getting really hot now but not overheating yet. Here's my first question. With the temperature hot, the top of the radiator fins are warm , but the bottom is cool. Is this normal or does it mean my radiator is blocked? The truck has new: thermostat, fan switch (electric fan does work but does not bring the temp down) fluid, pressure bottle and cap. I guess the water pump works because fluid shoots into the bottle and I just replaced the fan clutch and bled the closed system by removing the sensor on the back of the head (which blew all over the place when I took it off) Question number two: If it's normal for the radiator fins to be cool at the bottom what should I check next?

Don't listen to T. The rest of us want to see em. :D

Thanks hornbrod :cheers: TAZ, PM on the way :D

K, thanks guys. Would not having that bottom part have a negative effect on the cooling system? What I'm really asking is getting a new one going to actually help keep the engine temp cooler?

Anybody have one? I changed out my fan clutch today and noticed there's no bottom part to it. Is that normal? Sorry I don't have anything else to reference to. :cheers:

May 31st.

x4 or 5 or 6. I lost count.

Buy the MJ if all you want is the engine. Sell off the interior and anything else that's good and get the money for the scrap metal then. It should just pay for itself.

If you google insurance quotes there's a site that asks for your info. I can't remember what it was though. Anyway, you punch in your stats, it asks you a bunch of questions and your email address. I did it. In a couple of days insurance quotes started rolling in from local agents. I went from paying about $2800 a year for three cars to $643 a year. You just have to wait a week to see who sends you the best rate. $2100 was well worth the half hour it took out of my time. If your in central PA call my guy. Douglas Erwin 717-533-0252 546 West Chocolate Ave. Hershey, PA 17033 Out of state (800) 209-7183 I don't know if he does out of state but it's worth a try. Between all my policies he probably saved me close to $5000 a year :eek:

Allright. Mitch wins the Comedian of the Month award :rotfl2: :rotfl2: Maddzz, if no one can figure it out by tommorow I'll call my computer guy for you. Good luck :cheers:

Should have said something. I just sold mine I wrote this really long post but when I hit the submit button it dissapeared :nuts: Anyway, you won't save any money on gas but it is a great car. Let me know if you need any input on it. I've owned 14 VW's now.

We have a Yamaha Zuma 49cc scooter. It gets used for delivering pizzas and when I'm too tired to ride my bike to work. It gets about 80 miles to the gallon. But only because we drive it at WOT all the time or it would do better. Top speed is about 40MPH. We never even get on the highway so it's all we need. I believe it was $2300 two or three years ago. It's already paid itself off in gas alone because we do about 100-200 miles a day with it. Someone who's extremely bored needs to figure out how much we saved in just gas compared to a car that does maybe 18-22 MPG. Only part that sucks is that if the temp drops below 50 degrees it starts to get cold riding it. But that's just like any other bike. My Comanche on the other hand is only getting 12-14 MPG in town. I guess it's because I only drive it to work 4 miles and back. Still trying to figure out if that's normal. I probably save about $30 a week in gas between using the scooter and the bike. But hey that's $120 a month plus $150 extra because I quit smoking which comes to almost $300 dollars a month that I can blow on the Comanche :rotfl2:

Man, only when I see pictures of palm trees is when I seriously miss Miami :cry: Looked like fun. Hope you had a great time :cheers:

Just get new ones at NAPA. They're not that expensive and you know they'll work right.....hopefully.

IT LOOKS LIKE ABSOLUTE CRAP!!!! Jeepco, sell it to me :D

Bastard! What are we supoosed to do if we need a interior door clip over the weekend. WHO ARE WE SUPPOSED TO CALL! :rotfl2:

So should I change out the fan clutch?

So Eagle, mine moves easily after it's hot. Not as easy as when it's cold but still easy. I guess it's bad. However my temp doesn't go up at a light. It goes up while driving around town and drops back down when I stop at a light. Could the fan-clutch cause this to happen? I pulled out the laser thermometer again and ran a couple tests. While my gauge reads probably somewhere between 215 and 225 it never hits 225. I aimed the laser at all the different places I could think of and right where the sensor is by the VC is where it almost matches my gauge. Everywhere else though it reads anywhere from 170 to 200. I thought my gauge was just wrong because it never overheats but now I'm secondguessing myself. I've changed the thermostat, fan temp switch/sensor, plastic expansion tank, and the PO put a new radiator in. The fan works but it doesn't turn on until the gauge reads close to 220-225. That's why I always thought the gauge was off. Is it normal for it to turn on that late? So should I just go ahead and change my fan clutch and does anyone have a good set of instructions on how to do it? Oh I've flushed the coolant and replaced and bled the air bubbles too. What da ya think?

See Pat If you build it, they will come :rotfl2: