chicofuentes0224

:wall: :wall: :wall: Airtex Part#E7901S will not work in a Jeep Comanche fuel tank because of the in-pan tank. The unit is a mirror image of the correct comanche unit. IE. Everything is backwards.

:wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :hateputers:

Did any Comanche ever come with one from the factory? Only reason I ask is because a seller on Ebay is trying to sell the cherokee fuel pump/sending unit from Airtex as a Comanche one, and I keep trying to tell him it won't work. This discussion has gone back and forth 4 or 5 emails now with him replying it will work. In his latest email he decided to tell me that it will fit all 87-90 Comanches with a 242 transfer case. Anyway, I'm done trying to tell him but I'd like to know about the 242 just for my benefit. thanks again :cheers:

The sensor itself is the one on the firewall. A long tube runs from it to the bottom of the throttle body and it plugs into the wiring harness close to the last fuel injector if you have a I6.

PIZZA! FRAGGIN PIZZA! i'VE HAD A DAMN SLICE OF PIZZA EVERY DAY FOR LUNCH FOR THE LAST FIFTEEN YEARS. DAMN I'M SO TIRED OF PIZZA. oh but it's so good :oops:

onehundredshot,rapidload,CO2powered,madeinchina,wallmartspecial :rotfl2:

Adam, what makes them differnt that they don't fit? Looking at measurements on Ebay it looked like they were the same height and width, or close to it. The only differnce I could see was the lengths were differnt and the position of the hole for the fuel pump.

Alcan, and MotionOffroad.com sells some.

Yeah I'm sorry wild. I forgot that post. Thanks again :cheers:

Wildman, are you yourself resoldering the lines? If so let me know. I have three sending units now. The one on my truck needs the leak at the lines fixed. If your doing it, I'll pay you when I take mine out and put one of the good ones in.

Don't feel stupid. I told you to check because I've done it plenty of times. Good luck with the CTS :cheers:

exactly, however the cable doesn't always slide right into the speedo gear in the transfer case

Yup, that's it.

This might sound stupid, but did you remember to plug everything back in? If you did, try putting the old IAC back on. if the problem goes away it's faulty.

Ladies and gentlemen. This man definitely wins the cleanest MJ of the month award. Congrats and welcome :cheers:

You can not buy the MJ sending unit from any JEEP dealer in the USA. You can like brig says google junkyards that can use a database to locate a used one. You can buy an XJ one but will have to modify a bit to fit your tank. That one from Autozone will not work in your tank without modification. A lot of people on this board have bought it and need to bend/reweld certain parts to get it not to hit the in-tank pan. I have not done it personally but if you run a search in the TECH section a lot of posts have come up on the subject. If you do decide to buy that sender you can get it on Ebay for cheaper. To answer your question, No one stocks that part new. It does not excist.

Personally Dubya, I still think it's the battery or the alternator. If you can't or don't feel like running the tests, go to Wal-mart. Buy a cheap battery and put it in. If the truck works and dies later you know it's the alternator. If it doesn't even start with the new battery you can always just take it back to Wal-Mart and get your money back and then start looking for crazy electrical problems. I agree w/ Eagles first post that you might as well get the obvious crap outta the way before you start stressing yourself out with the other crap.

What's wrong with your sending unit? You can no longer buy a new one for an 88 comanche.

Replacing the dash harness is easy. All you need to do is take apart the whole dash :D The good news is you don't need any special tools. Just a screwdriver and a couple sockets. Yu'll need a marker, tape, and baggies so you can mark and remember where everything goes after you pull the old one out. TAKE LOTS OF GOOD PICTURES AS YOU PULL THE OLD ONE OUT. I didn't and it took me about 100 hours to replace the dash and engine harness because I had no idea where anything went. Seriously though, if I had to do it again I could probably do it in three to four hours. And that's with absolutely no mechanical experience or patience.

Two small bolts hold the bracket in place at the transfer case. Pull these and the whole piece pulls off. If you still can't get the cable into the gear you have to unscrew the large nut and fanaggle from there. I'll take pics tonight if you need em. I just did it again yesterday when I changed my speedo gear to the correct tooth count. The work under the truck took me less than 10 minutes. It's not hard as long as your patient and have good tools.

So let's get this staight. You ripped up the bolts on the dana 44 because you had to rip over a parking stop at the local Linen & Things just so you could get a good parking spot? I understand your pain man. Happens to me all the time :rotfl2: Just kidding :cheers:

It's not hard to do. You can do it in less than half an hour. I think there's 4 screws that hold the dash bezel in place. Then pull the cluster out by taking out those screws. (I think it was 7 or 8). Put the "new cable" on. Make sure you have the same style clamp. stick the cable back into the housing. If you get lucky it'll slide back into the speedo gear in the transfer case. If it doesn't just pull the speedo cable out of the tranfer case. Set the cable back into the gear and put it back in the transfer case. Remember to grease the cable when you put it back into the housing so the needle on your speedo won't vibrate. I just don't know what a good grease is because I used petro-gel lubricant that I use on my restaurant equipment and it didn't last more than two weeks. I'm sure someone else on here can tell you what is good.

So basically you can't get it to Autozone or an equivalent to have em check the battery and alternator right?

James, I'm sorry I was wrong. After reading up on the sensors again I read that the CTS controls engine warm up idle speed. So glad to hear the MAP helped. Any more problems and I guess the CTS would be next.

JT. It is also possible that you have an exhaust leak somewhere between the head and the O2 sensor. I've changed my TPS, IAC, CTS, knock, EGR, injectors, MAT, MAP, O2, EGR solenoid and CPS and was still running rich. It wasn't until I changed my exhaust/intake manifold gasket that I started seeing a little better gas mileage which still sucks. Eagle explained a little while back that if exhaust is leaking before the O2 sensor it believes the exhaust is lean causing it to adjust the fuel ratio (going up) which makes the truck run rich and gives ya crappy gas mileage. Just another possibility. Before you go changing a million sensors though I'd try to find someone with that Snap-On MT2500 that reads the info and tells you what's going on with the sensors or you can use that page Wildman gave you to check em. Of course it is completely possible that the new O2 sensor is junk.