chicofuentes0224

phillip

Well, over the weekend I ran Prestone's flush thru the engine with water and the heater on full blast for about 4 hours. It sat in my driveway because I haven't put the front clip back on yet. Drained it out. Pulled the rad again. Changed the waterpump. Put them back on, filled the system back up. Ran a couple heatup/cooldown cycles and burped the system out of the back temp sender. (It didn't need it). Still no change in temp. I'm still running 215-225* I'm gonna button everything back up and run my electric fan on a switch to see if that will bring the temp down. MY REMINDER TO PUT A PIC HERE.

The other thing is that the harnesses for the two companies might have differnt colors.

Did you by any chance get a manual with the deck? I think your problem is that you need a constant power supply to the memory wire. Is there two power wires back ther right?

Told YA :D Chico, how much did you sell the stereo for? :rotfl2: I didn't need to. Mine got stolen about a month ago, but I already got it back. Unfortunately, it's not usable anymore. If your truck's a five speed I'll tell you what happened. Some dumb white kid from Kessington figured it was an easy car to take for a joy ride, couldn't figure out how to shift a twenty year old truck because his parents are probably either crackheads or alchies and never taught the dip$#!& how to drive. So he gets four blocks away after bumping and grinding up the tranny, decides it would be faster to walk and takes the stereo so he can trade it in at the pawn shop to hit up the dollar menu at Micky Dee's. And if ya got an AW4 it's probably that your @$$ stinks and he couldn't take the smell inside so he used the $5 the pawn shop gave him to buy a bar of soap and some deodorant and got a shower for the first time in two weeks. All joking aside, I'm glad you got the truck back almost complete :cheers: Weird thing is if they took the toolbox they had help and I'm surprised they didn't take the rims and tires. All the better for you :D

No, but then again it was winter, the temp outside was 40* or lower and since I drive around all year round with the windows down the heat was always on full blast so the temp would be kept down anyway.

Told YA :D

Nope. The factory t'stat only has the hole at 12:00 Well, then I'm oficially done replacing everything with the cooling system. I'm wiring up the electric fan this week to run on a switch.

Back in the winter when I put a thermostat in because the PO wasn't running one and the truck wouldn't heat up and run like crap I put a 195* in and drilled a whole at the 12 o clock position only. You guys think it makes a differnce I didn't put one at the 6 o clock position?

Rich I finally got the pump in tonight and ran it. I think it's leaking though. No change in temp. 215 to 230. I'm going to wire my electric fan on a switch this week. If that doesn't lower the temp I'm gonna let it run outta coolant and oil and drive it till it blows and catches fire. :D Just don't kick it... I did that once and was limping around for like a week! :jump: :rotfl2:

Rich I finally got the pump in tonight and ran it. I think it's leaking though. No change in temp. 215 to 230. I'm going to wire my electric fan on a switch this week. If that doesn't lower the temp I'm gonna let it run outta coolant and oil and drive it till it blows and catches fire. :D

Thanks for the replies guys. Where did you buy the Right Stuff, and does anybody know if Autozone carries it?

So I have all the bolts out for the water pump and power steering pump. I know they all came out with 13,14, and 15mm sockets but how do you guys want me to measure them (meaning like with a tape measure from where to where.) And do you want me to count the threads?

I've read all the threads on here and checked Alldata and I'm getting differnt answers. Should I put RTV on the water pump gasket when I install it or put it on there dry and clean?

Nice option, but not that deep at the moment :eek:

Yep, Jasper's the company that wants $2600.

You know now that I have the front clip off and I'm having so many problems with the cooling issue I was thinking of going a differnt route. I have an 88 4.0 in there now. If I keep all the renix stuff and externals, up to what year Cherokee can I pull an engine out of to replace my 220,000 mile one. Obviously the newer the better with lower mileage because it makes no sense to do it with a 1990 that already has 150,000 miles plus. Would I be able to use a realatively new one that's maybe been in an accident (side or rear hit)? Is this a viable option or should I just buy a reman one for $2600 and save myself a lot of headaches?

Pulled the old rad with LEAD NOT FOLLOW"S post. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7695 Put the new one in but I'm still running warm. Bought a new waterpump from Autozone for $35.00. Make sure you buy the one that says reverse rotation. I also got a bottle of Prestone cooling system flush. I'm supposed to run it thru the system with just water and that for 3-6 hours of operation. This is supposed to loosen up any build-up and rust in my block from years of neglect. When I drained my 50/50 mix last night again to add this all of it came out clean with just a few specs of crap in it. We'll see how it goes. Hopefully I'll get it all buttoned up this weekend, but it's getting kind of hard doing it outside at night with a flashlight in between my teeth and under occasional thunderstorms. I envy everyone on here with a well lit garage :D

Rich, here's LEAD"S post http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7695 Oh and make sure your waterpump is reverse rotation and is stamped with an R on the back. The moron at Autozone tried to sell me a differnt one.

Rich, I followed LEAD NOT FOLLOW"S DIY post on changing from a closed to open system. He goes step by step on how to remove your rad. It only took about 15 minutes to get the whole front clip off his way and makes working in there really easy. Great detailed write-up with pics. Anyway keep us updated and good luck :cheers:

Rich, I changed the rad and meade sure all the air was out of the system and I'm still running warm. Since you have the header off and rad out it's really easy to get to it. I just bought one for $35.00 so while you're in there, why not. I also drained all the 50/50 mix again and added Prestone's flush crap that's supposed to clean out a lot of the build-up and rust in the block. Only thing that sucks is I'm supposed to run it thru there for 3-6 hours and drain it out again and replace the 50/50 mix. But since I'm changing out the waterpump to see if it helps I said sure ok.

Rich, did you change the waterpump yet?

It;s possibly your IAC if it's not the TPS. It was my IAC on a manual VW. Run a search here for TPS and you'll find posts that link you to how to adjust your TPS correctly.

Jt. the cap on my expansion tank is a regular rad cap, says 16 lbs vented. The whole point of this set-up was to turn it into an open system without changing the rad style. I just checked it again. The coolant level in the plastic tank was noticeably lower so the the system is still sucking coolant in. That and a lot less bubbles came out of the second tank. However it's still not running at 210*. I'm goin to give it another cycle and try it again tommorow morning. The temp is ten degrees cooler at the thermo housing down to 210*. Of course the outside temp dropped 20* and it's raining. I also don't have the fan shroud on the mechanical fan yet or the electric fan hooked up yet. Would running that electrical fan nonstop on a switch really lower my temp a good amount by drawing air threw the driver's side of the rad.

I really like those seats. Did you say they're $600 dollars :eek: