512tr

I’m stripping my MJ completely to do a full restoration/modification. Have 2 partout XJ’s (-88 Laredo and -92 Limited) which I’m trying to pick XJ parts in order to improve the MJ. I started with the leather/power seats from the -92 Limited, to see if I could use them in the MJ. It turned out to be much easier than first expected. I seat height difference is not more then 0,5-1,5 inches in lowest position (depends where I measure), so the XJ buckets with full power functions will definitely go in my MJ. Some pic's what I did with the el. power frame, and some comparising with the stock MJ bucket. Bear with me if my English grammar is sometimes bad, I’m from Norway.

Parting out 2 XJ’s, both with electrical leather seats (tan and dark blue). The tan leather buckets will go in to the Comanche, and the other become office chairs. They are surprisingly comfortable to sit in

Some pictures of the mechanical and electronic speedometer The electronic is from a -92 XJ, the mechanical from a -88 XJ It should be doable to do a custom job to fit the electronic in the Renix housing. The wiring is simple, only 3 wires.

Use a thin nail, pen, needle or somthing, and push through the smal holes next to HR and MIN.

As Minuit stated, the max 85mph US speedometers was a political BS regulation, and had nothing to do with the cars max speed. https://www.yahoo.com/news/question-of-the-day-why-did-1980s-cars-have-233212628.html EU did have other regulations, speedometers should show the max speed the cars was capable for under ideal conditions.

Sorry my mistake....PCM (Power Control Module). XJ export cars to Europe had both mph/km/h speedometers 120mph/200km/h Have some MJ/XJ/ZJ/WJ instruments on my shelf

A early XJ HO electronic speedometer can easily be used in an Renix MJ. These speedometers are “stand alone”, and do not have to be wired via the HO PSM.

Thanks for the reply, also for me it looks like a dual. This booster is from a part out XJ have, it's an European -92 w/abs. Is there any way to determine if it is a single or dual? https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/Jeep/BOOSTER-PACKAGE--Brake-1994/4358046/04713075.html

Hi, I’m an old member doing a forum comeback, after near 10 years away. My Comanche have been standing still for several years, but now I have started a full restoration. I'm collecting parts for upgrades and modifications. Is this a single or dual diaphragm brake booster? Part no.

Test PB Test direct uppload

To look for vacuum leaks, use START GAS, spray over potensial leak areas. If you have a leak, the idle rpm will increase.

Yes, I did it on my XJ after 2,5 OME lift. Drilled/grinded new holes on both sides, made and put in two “offset washers” Work perfect with the stock track bar.

Read in an other forum it was a fox, not a deer... some more picture...what a mess.. :eek:

Did this a couple years ago, -87 MJ 4.0..

I assume you have the computer and relays from the Renix 4.0, then you have to use the fuel pump relay to supply power to the fuel pump. The output from the fuel-pump relay also supply/trigg the EGR solenoid, O2 heater relay, AC clutch relay. The fuel pump relay ground circuit is controlled by the ECU, and thus the ECU activate the fuel pump when the engine is cranking or running (And 1-3 sec when the ignition is turned on, enough to pressurize the system). On idle, the pressure reach 31 PSI, then the pressure regulator opens and maintain max 31psi by sending fuel back to the tank. I think if you are using an aftermarket fuel pump, it has to have at least 90-100 psi max pressure. Sure you can make your own wiring to the fuel pump, but still you have to use a relay (fuel pump relay on the Renix) in order to operate the EGR solenoid, O2 heater relay, AC clutch relay.

Don’t have any looking straight down..but these may help.

On a Renix the 3 lines from the fuel tank are: Fuel supply (10 mm) connected to the rear of the fuel rail. Fuel return (8mm) connected to the fuel pressure regulator at the front of the fuel rail. The small one is connected to the fuel vapor canister.

On my -87 MJ w/o AC, I have hot air through the defroster and when switching to the floor the air is cold. Have checked all vacuum motors controlling the vent doors, and the water valve….. they are all working good. Have also checked the cable that operates the heater control valve (blend door) and it works as it should. Have not open the housing yet, would check if any of you have experienced the same problem, before I tear it all apart ? Could the problem be that the blend door is leaking in warm position, so some of the cold air is NOT going through the heater core?

In Europe Jeep offered a 2.1 L TD Renault diesel in the MJ and XJ, and later an Italian 2.5L TD VM diesel in the XJ’s (116hk.300Nm). None of them could compare with the mighty 4.0L, concerning power and reliability, the parts and maintenance is pricey vs the 4.0.

Every second year we have to take the cars in for control, prior to the control I always remove the drums, clean everything, rub the bands (shoes) and adjust the brakes manually. So fare both my D44 drums MJ/YJ and D35 on the XJ have perform good.

Joop, Gratangen in the north I love them all....Depends on the situation, my GF us the XJ for DD and myself run the MJ when I'm home (at work an XK), this was the first time I took the YJ out of the garage this winter. ..but when I'm done with the MJ it will be on top of the list ;) ...and guys, it's still snowing :cheers:

No tools or Jeep stuff for me this year :cry: But first week in January this will show up :chillin:

Was on a rescue mission this afternoon, my sister in her VW 4x4 did have problems in the snow. It was damn slippery and she was afraid that the car would go further out and roll. Took the YJ out of the garage and winched her car back on the road. For sure, a Milemarker is on the list for my MJ.

Merry Christmas all "Comanches" out there Pics taken 1 hour ago, 13:30 hrs..Christmas Eve.