512tr

I think this SPS (Speed Proportional Steering) is a rare thing on older Jeeps, as far as I have found out it was only on 1996 ZJ. Probably not the best system /too expensive, since they didn’t continue using it in the coming years. As far as I have figured out the system consists of a solenoid valve on the pump (regulating the pump flow), a standalone control module, a steering wheel sensor and input from the vehicle speed sensor. The reason I’m curious is that I have a part-out ZJ with this steering pump, and it bolts straight on to the +99 intake without any modifications. I think it works as an ordinary pump if the electrical system is not connected/fails (full power assists all the time). Time will tell if I will us it and get it to work. 😊

Is anyone familiar with the variable assist steering pump found on 96 ZJ’s?

I think you still could do the CAD delete and use the vacuum lines to only operate the 4WD vacuum switch and have the 4WD light working when the TC is in 4WD. If you feel the need for it, don’t let it be a dream.😊 It’s quick and easy to realize in few minutes, just cut the yellow line and install a small valve. If you want it inside the cab just extend both lines to the cab and connect the valve. You could use a small gas valve or as simple as an aquarium air control valve (as I did). I did this on my YJ a long time ago, to ease maneuver with a trailer in a very tight space.

Did some simple bump stops from a piece of 2” oak bench plate, and a HD rubber mat. I hope the pictures are self-explanatory. 😊

I don’t have any rear window to reinstall 😊 Luckily the rear window has a simple form and doesn’t require any shape on the window to fit, so I plan to use a sheet of best quality Polycarbonate or equal. Just after I got the truck, I replaced the old cracked window with simple Plexi glass, and it served well all these years…..then, I just cut it with a jigsaw, glued it and put some screws. What I haven’t solved yet is how to make a sliding window, any ideas? Have been looking on the internet in the boating and caravan world to find ideas for making a sliding window and trim around the window. Window trim alternative Fender Flares… 18 years ago a bought Bushwacker flares, they are still in the original box😊

The gas tank is 2 mm 316 stainless steel, tig welded, it's approximate 64 liters (17 gallons) I've refurbished the tank and made new cross members, don't want to bolt anything to the bed. Have some vague plans to make a second bed, easy on/off…time will tell😊 You observe details 😊 I think I have 11-12 sets of Jeep rims, near all cars in Norway do have 2-wheel sets, summer, and stud tires for the winter, at least in the north where I’m living…nothing beats studs on icy roads. The wheel in the latest pictures is just temporary, it’s the 17” summer wheels for my ZJ, don’t know yet what rims I will end up with, do have some to choose from, including Jeep turbines and some 15x10 rims.

Thanks, do have a picture with that big wheel loader wheel on the bed...but sadly I can't find it now.

That's good, you are a patriot😊

Yes, that’s the same truck as I’m working on, and yes it's black (dark grey) paint. Older picture. It is 20 years since I bought it, it has been a very reliable and good truck, but has been neglected for years. From the pictures you can see that it was quite shabby and needed treatment and care😊. Pictures taken the day I started dismantling.

Some years ago I was on a work trip in Holland, spotted this MJ in a small Dutch town. Looks like a company truck. I think this is the only Comanche I have seen "live" except for my own.😊

You mentioning Bulldozer yellow....the Comanche with my yellow 4WD's😊

Thanks for all input. I have decided to keep that color in the engine bay, the truck itself will not be painted before the spring so I have time to figure out what to do.😊

If you still have the D30 CAD and feel the need for 2WD in low range, you could install a valve on the vacuum line that engages the CAD. With the valve closed (no vacuum) there will be no traction on the front wheels. That clunky factory t-case shift setup could be improved by using this Transfer Case Linkage Kit, I just got 3 kits, for my MJ and other 2 Jeeps.

Thanks for all replies. I chose this color inspired by the color scheme on the 2016 Comanche concept car. In general, I find it very difficult to choose color. I finished a motorcycle project last summer and ended up leaving it unpainted, another bike I built I painted twice, the last time with expensive chameleon paint...after 14 days I couldn't stand the paint and wrapped the whole bike in satin black and carbon. ...now I'm reasonable happy with both.

Beautiful, has to be one of the best looking MJ's out there.

Tan/beige and these leather seats from an XJ

I have become very unsure if I should go for this yellow/tan color. The final paint will be a combination with black and yellow/tan Raptor paint. It is still time to go for another color. Your opinion please?

Good idea. Here in Norway, we have to plan when we need parts.😊 Over the years I have stored 3 parts cars, 2 XJ's and a ZJ, but when specific MJ parts are needed I have to improvise and customize. I think I have read somewhere that it was imported 80 Comanches to Norway, how many are left on the roads is unknown. Personally I have never seen any except for mine.

If you can't find any, check if you can fit a Mercedes e-brake unit. As one of the few European cars, Mercedes still uses the e-brake pedal system. Here in Norway, it is easier to find gold than a Comanche at the scrap yard.😊

The pads I got from China, bolts you will find in a hardware store, rounded the head for the center bolts with a drill and a grinder (poor mans lathe)😊 The clamps a did myself.

I was considering doing that, but ended up with the theory that the driver side is heavier, and needed more arch to be level😊 Impressive video with Indians re-arch the leaf pack on the street

Thanks for the replies, it will be interesting to see when I get it back on the road again, sometime next summer. I will use Skyjacker Nitro 8000 shocks, which I purchased a long time ago. Does the left one have more arch than the other, or is it just the picture? Mine also has a minor difference in arch, so I will put the one with most arch on the driver side due to more weight on the driver side (driver, transfer case and gas tank)

A long time ago a bought these AAL leaf’s from Skyjacker and installed it as a part of my total MJ restoration. These leaves came with a 2,5-3” lift kit. Put in new Leaf pads and did some leaf clamps in stainless steel with the bolt sleeve in aluminum. I chose aluminum to try to avoid more corrosion and mechanical wear on the main leaf, (there are grooves in the main leaf after the rusty steel clamp sleeve) As the topic says, I wonder how this leaf configuration will behave, many of you have long experience with different leaf set up and could maybe predict how this will work on my truck? Would it be stiff, jumpy or…? I will use my MJ as a “work” truck, light off-roading and transporting motorcycles.

Thanks for the replies, did use Eastwood Internal frame coating in the frame behind the cabin. Will consider using either Woolwax or some linseed oil based coating in the unibody frame below cab.

Are there any long-term tests of internal frame coatings? I have started a full restoration of my 87 MJ and have done some rust repairs. My findings are that all rust attacks on the frame/unibody are coming from the inside, the area around the front leaf spring brackets were the worst. The left side cab corner was gone, and some minor rust in the cabin floor.