512tr

I already have the FSM for the MJ (not -87 but -88 ), and for sure I will need the FSM covering the 4,7L, especially the wiring diagrams. Sure I will keep you updated, but it will take some time before I start the rebuilding. I’m starting to build a new house this summer , which will take all my spare time…and the MJ is an excellent ‘building truck’, transporting things here and there, during the house building project. I’m collecting parts at the moment, so fare I have 10” rims, Bushwacker Flares, Skyjacker 3" lift w/nitro shocks and the new engine/trans investment…everything that’s make me happy is for me an investment :-)

Check the position of butterfly in the Throttle Body, it should seal completely at idle. The air supply at idle should only be through the IAC channels, controlled by the IAC motor. If the butterfly is partly open, check the throttle cable, if it's in close position, check for vacuum leaks.

Got a very good deal on a Jeep 4,7 L V8 incl transmission/transfer and all electronics, fuelpump, instruments and ignition switch....only 19k miles. To late to regret...it's already shipped. :oops: Target: into the Comanche :nuts:

The MJ/XJ used the 1985-1987 2.1 L Renault turbodiesel I4 1985-1987 and 2.5 L VM Motori turbodiesel I4 1994-1996 Available engines: 1984-1996 2.5 L AMC I4, 121 hp-125 hp 1984-1986 2.8 L GM 60° LR2 V6 1985-1987 2.1 L Renault turbodiesel I4 (initially sold in US and until 1993 in Europe) 1987-1990 4.0 L AMC I6, 173-177 hp 1991-1996 4.0 L AMC "High Output" I6, 190 hp 1994-1996 2.5 L VM Motori turbodiesel I4 (sold in Europe)

CPS=Crank Position Sensor, but in the Renix it's called Engine Speed Sensor. The CPS don’t have to be 100% dead, but work a few minutes after start up and then shut off, causing no spark….so your symptoms indicates a CPS failure.

I hate smilies :D

Will this pic help you?

That's correct :) Norway is an EXPENSIVE country, so $3,889 is not a high price for the (according to the pictures) nice MJ, a guy near me consider to buy it. It's a -86, is then the engine eider a 2,5 TBI or 2,8L V6, and the rear a D35 or AMC20 ?

What's the ca. lift on this MJ-86? (for sale in Norway) The tires are 31"x10.5" More pics at: http://www3.autodb.no/cgi-bin/car/detail.pl?nr=979471

Maybe this helps..

heralue, where in Sweden are you located?

Looks damn nice.

Back on track again :) Here's mine MJ with GEM top, pic taken oct last year, the day a bougt the car.

He,he..it’s made of a thick paper roll( to keep drawings, posters etc. in), it’s was just for testing. However, today I made the heat shield box, and replaced the paper tube with a 3” steel tube (from a galvanized exhaust tube) The heat shield, I made of a steel shelf.. I use what I can find around me :) Here is the shelf…cutting the top cover. 3” bent steel tube, installing new nipples. Put a cover on the top. This modification cost me nothing and was fun to do, and I’m 100% satisfied with the increase in power :-D My future short term plans is to put on new rims/tires, I have no time (will start building a new house this spring) to re-gear, do a lift and put on big tires, so I will run with the stock 3,55 gears and 31” tires. Yesterday I got 5 cheap 10x15 rims, and now I’m checking prices on tires, 10,5” wide tires will be to narrow on 10” rims, or :?: So, I’m checking prices on BFG M/T 325/60/15 meats ( 30.4”x12.8”) …low and wide. Any opinions how M/T-325/60/15 will look/work on the Comanche :?: :?:

The 'new' 39psi/21.0lb/hr HO injectors vs the stock 39psi/18.6lb/hr injectors. Fuel rail Fuel rail installed, next is to remove the air filter box and connected vac lines All Gone.. New cone-filter set up, used an 80mm tube, and made a Y connection to connect the fresh air supply to the crankcase, and the evaporator canister. It’s good to get rid of all the vacuum lines to the stock filter box.....rerouted the vac lines to/from EGR solenoid. Will fabricate a combine heat shield/bracket for the cone filter. Have not run an AFR analyze yet (can’t find the extension cable to the wideband O2 sensor :( ) But I can definitely feel more power, when accelerating from stand-still the wheels slips when giving full pedal, can also feel slipping when shifting from 1 to 2….was not able to do that before :) Love this old MJ :-D

Thanks, will go for a desent brand of Dexron lll.

Witch Atutomatic Transmision Fluid do you use on your AW4. Any Dexron II (Dexron III) brands better than other? Thanks

Hi again, went away to England on Monday morning (working in UK now) so I didn’t get time to post how it turned out. However, I installed it, adjusted the TPS with a digital Voltmeter and fired the engine…..it idle to high, around 15-1600 rpm, (I expected this to happen but hoped the idle stepper motor were able to compensate for the not perfect butterfly sealing) So I removed the TB and took out the butterfly and did some accurate grinding in order to seal off better, Here how I grind it... Now it sealed perfect, and installed the TB again, adjusted the butterfly stop screw, so the edge on butterfly didn’t rest against the TB wall. Adjusted the TPS again, and fired up the engine, and finally adjusted the Fine Adjust Idle Screw until the engine idle smut at ca. 800 rpm. Took it for a test drive…and I think it rev faster when I hit the pedal in all rpm’s….. definitely at higher rpm’s. According to my knowledge the AW4 trans works as it should, when going 50-60 mph in 4th and give it light pedal it downshift to 3rd, if I floor it, it shift down to 2nd (in Power mode)…then I feel the old MJ is pretty fast :-D Some time ago I did have problems with the trans lock up, but after fixing the brake switch the trans lock-up as it should. When I’m home again I will run an AFR analyze using an Innovate LM-1 Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Meter in order to see how the Air Fuel Ratio is through the rpm range, to see if it’s running lean in WOT conditions due to the increased air supply. The exhaust manifold and down pipe is stock, but after the flange it is a 3”with only a small 3” muffler (mean sound) I will replace the stock Renix 18, 6 lb/hr (39psi) injectors with the HO 21 lb/hr (39psi) injectors and see how the Renix engine will work with bigger injectors :?: It’s fun and interesting to work and play with the old MJ and it cost me nothing, to bore the throttle body was pure recreation, the HO injectors was left after going bigger on the YJ, and the AFR analyzer I already have. Have also a K&N cone filter lying around, so I may test this out as well, here in Norway the emissions for pre -91 cars is easy to pass so I have nothing to fear in that matter.

I haven’t had much time to spend on my MJ the resent months, but today I just have to do something…..and decided to bore the TB, (did it on my YJ long time ago with good results) The stock 52 mm bore. Don’t have any sophisticated machines so I’m using hand tools.. Started to grind Then I used this..don’t know the English word :) Finished with a hone tool Modify the butterfly-shaft Making new butterfly The new 59-60mm butterfly compare to the 52mm Modified the fine adjustment Idle screw Extended the TV cable bracket Ready for installation :)

Did search my computer and found this table over Jeep injectors Model Year, ...Part #, .......Colour, ....Fuel Pressure, ...Static Flow, '87-'90, ........53003956, ...Dark Tan, ...39psi, .................18.6lb/hr '91-'93, ........33007127, ...Brown, .......39psi, .................21.0lb/hr '94-'95, ........53030343, ...Tan, ...........39psi, .................21.0lb/hr '96-'99, ........53030778, ...Grey, .........49psi, .................23.2lb/hr '99-'01, ........04854181, ...Blue tip, .....49psi, .................22.5lb/hr

I have a set of stock HO injectors (replaced with bigger when I supercharged the YJ) I'm considering to bore the MJ TB and put in the HO injectors.

Have read somewhere that the Renix (87-90) injectors are 18.6lb/hr, and the HO (91-95) injectors are 21.0lb/hr, anybody knows if this is correct?

Here is a good overview over the stock Renix vacuum/air system

AW4 Do you have any info regarding the scanner, cost, web page etc ? Can the same scanner be used on the OBD I systems (HO PCM's) ?

The Jeep Renix Manual says input 5.0V (between A+ and D-) and output 4,15V (between B+ and D-) with closed throttle. The volt difference is 4.15V/5V= 0.83 (83%) I measure the input voltage to only 4.67V, I then adjusted the TPS until the output was 3,87V (4.67 x 0.83) Is this how you guys do it?