jtdesigns

10 pin connector, up near the front bulkhead = under the air box right, under the egr solenoid right?? Just want to make sure.. :D

I did pull the dizzy cap and everything "looked" ok.. Not sure what it'd look like if it was bad,, meaning the pulse mod ring thingy.. I have the fsm page saved to check all those lil sensors, just havent had time to do it.. Dint have time to check the compression but will this weekend,, I hope... I think I'm going to post the fsm on those too so I can find them easier... As soon as my injectors get here I'll be installing them and checking fuel pressure again.. One thing is for sure,, I'd like to do one thing at a time, just so I know exactly what was wrong with it.. Not that it really matters; cause it'd be fixed, but just cause...

Well.. I never did do a compression test... Thing is it only backfired when rpm's were low. above 3000 rpm (if it ever gets there) seems to regain power... Got my new injectors ordered today.. I'll get an compression test done tomorrow afternoon.. Two vehicles are down,, now... Getting around is kinda a bi+ ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGEWWGJ wb'jhirv;qeenn'knnnnnk'lniobni :mad: :mad: :rant: :grrrr: :rant: :grrrr: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop:

Shoot me a PM with an email address and can send you a wiring diagram with which you can use your existing factory wiring from the switch to the forward bulkhead connector. All you have to do is add a relay and wite to the lights from it. Hey Don,, do you know if all the wiring is there from the bulkhead to the connector under the airbox? I have the switch wiring for the switch in the dash (on my 96) and got a headlight harness that had the relay and fog light connectors in it. I tried to chase wires with my meter but couldnt find any matching.. Just wondering.. I was hoping like most things on these Jeeps if I could luck out and have it plug 'n' play...

Or at least have him send me a set of those decals for my truck... :yes: :wavey:

I had a s-10 that wouldnt charge the battery if the cluster wasnt hooked up.. took me a bit to figure that one out..

Do tell? :dunno: http://fitchva.com/jeep/?page_id=20 http://fitchva.com/jeep/?page_id=34

I thought for sure when you said you had a problem you were going say you were ghey.. Those are some sweet rigs you got there man.. You have any build specs on the "bad" xj?? Welcome to CC to bad your not going to build the truck to be a monster like that xj...

sweet, I was looking at the spray guy at O'Reilly's. Figured it would be worth a shot. Neighbor has a compressor, I couldn't justify dragging mine down to florida when I PCSed here. Just gonna have to set up some drops and find an area of the parking lot where no one parks. I live in base housing in a cul-de-sac so I got to be a little careful. How high does it float when spraying. Overspray wise I mean. I figure it should be pretty heavy and not drift too far. Hey NCSU.. Best time to paint is early Sunday morning when the wind is calm and not alot of ppl stirring dust about.... Outside that is.. Set your compressor up to spray lightly and just keep it under control, you should be green to go..

Well that makes sense... Is there anyway a 4.0l can jump timing?? Recap on what its doing... Idle erratic.. Runs better going downhill, no load, like crap with any kind of load.. Sometimes I find I have to pump the pedal to get her running at all.. Low fuel pressure, good pump flow, 2 leaking injectors, and regulator seems like it has a strong seal..

A lil update... Pulled fuel rail and found gas sitting in # 3 and 4 injector connectors.. Not sure what that means but its what it had.. Didnt see any drips and the o-rings looked pretty good. They were changed before I got the truck. The pressure regulator seems to be in good shape, going to put a controlled air pressure on fuel rail side and check for any leak down.. Pull a vac on where the vac line goes and see if holds vac.. That should rule out regulator being the culprit.. I still am kinda dumb founded at the injectors having gas in the connector though.. :hmm: :dunno: :hmm: :rant: Maybe the plastic body has cracks,, maybe the o-ring was leaking.. Either way going with precision ones from Ford. >>These ones<< that Brent hooked us up with. Wonder if the gas in the injector was shorting out the injector from opening.. :hmm: The injector ports look like black crusty holes.. I'm going to clean them up by removing the spark plug and pushing air through the the cyl with the valve set on the intake stroke for that cyl.. I guess... Thats the only way I can think to do it without getting the crap in the cylinder.

Its a soap dish... Gezzz man don't you read anything anymore???? lol j/k'n I remember him saying something about it not long ago... I remember because I just one of those magy ones in my truck... just happened to be there when working on the dash, and never moved... lol.. Does make a good lil tray though, to bad change isnt made from iron, or a nickel is.. well nickel. EDIT---dang I need to concentrate on one thing at a time... Don beat me to it!

The camera guy sure got the "F" outa the way didnt he!!!!!!!! lol.... That scout is a beast!!!!

If your looking into your engine bay standing in front of the truck and look on the bottom of your throttle body you will see a oblong plug at the left side bottom of your thottle body. That plug has two holes in it, the bottom hole should come out of the plug bend 90* and run back to the map sensor on the firewall. The fuel pressure regulator is attached to the front of the fuel rail and has a line that runs to the connector on the intake. That connector has 3 nipples on it and one pointing straight up, the one pointing straight is where the regulator line goes. the egr solenoid is a kinda hard to explain so

Where is this diagnostic connector?? Is that those yellow caps things over the relays beside the batt?? Nevermind... Found it... Thought so...

I'm gad yours is doing good.. Shhhiiiiii Pure panic comes over me just at the thought of my daughter getting hurt, or becoming sick.... I hope to that she learned her lesson.. I don't ike to be mean to my babies,, but I have to because I only see the "what if this happens" factor.... Truth is I could do without allll my Jeep's, Honda's, and toy's if I had do if it meant my kids were in trouble..

:rotfl2: :clapping:

You need to return that crap and pick up some Army Digital print ACU or Marine MARPAT fabric.. :smart: Army, Marine,

Caution:::::::: :hijack: Was he saying the Touareg is butt ugly???????? :eek: WTH those things are FREAKING SWEET!!! I would LOVE to have one.. Just like this.. the R50 is bad arse!!!!

4.0L MPFI 1) Remove cap from pressure test port in fuel rail. Connect Fuel Pressure Gauge (J-37730-1) to pressure fitting. Start vehicle. Pressure should be approximately 31 psi (2.7 kg/cm ) with vacuum hose connected to pressure regulator. 2) Pressure should be 39 psi (2.74 kg/cm ) with vacuum hose removed from regulator. If fuel pressure is not to specifications, check for kinks or restricting bends in fuel supply and return lines. Check fuel pump flow rate. Pump should deliver minimum of 1.06 quarts (one liter) of fuel per minute with fuel return line pinched off. 3) If flow is inadequate, check system for plugged fuel filter or filter sock. Fuel pump flow rate can be checked by connecting a hose to fuel test port on fuel rail and inserting other end in clean container. 4) To operate fuel pump, install a jumper wire into diagnostic connector terminals D1-5 and D1-6. Pinch off fuel return line to ensure that no fuel returns to fuel tank. If fuel pressure is still not to specifications and fuel flow is normal, replace regulator.

OK back home now... here's the test for fuel pump from the FSM... Going to just post it here for reference...

I tried to extract the file and it pops up saying I need to insert the last disc.. I'm thinking its the windows set-up utility disc thats not installed. :dunno:

I can't open that file for some reason Brent.. I'm at my buddies house and for some reason his pc won't load it or the copy I brought with me on my thumb drive,,,, :dunno:

Right... I thought it should be around 39psi... Pulled all plugs... they look kinda ashy white, telling me running lean... Guess I can rule out leaking injector.. I thought when your pump builds up pressure it stays there.. Like the pump has a check valve on it right?? I guess my next step will be dropping a 3/4 full tank..... :ack:

update... TPS within specs. +lead to A= 4.86V +lead to C= .83V Did fuel pressure test.. 17/18 PSI switch on 15/16 psi engine running clamped off return guage went up maybe 2 psi if that Pressure IS NOT holding when key is switched, a relay beside batt clicks pressure goes to ~19psi then relay clicks and pressure drops. I have some sort of fuel problem... Pump runs when switched... filter is flowing good,, refurbished rear ground on tail light, banged on tank, still running low.. Going to pull plugs and see if injectors are stuck... be back in a bit. Whats the way to test pressure regulator??? Eagle,, how can I tell if i have water in gas????? Tank level at 3/4