jtdesigns

I just don't want the plastic to get fuzzy ( you know what I mean?) in the spots where the paint is missing...I really don't want to take the those suckers off, so I may just get some striper and test it in a small spot to see results. How hard was it to take the bumper ends off? ( if you did) I need to do those with the grill and flares. I'm in the same boat as you with the "work" truck. I bought mine for 250 just to haul the trash (told my wife that at least,lol) and I think I have passed that price on parts and whatever 3 times. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7579&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 here's a link to my trash truck ^^^ I need to up date the pics but dog ate digicam,, My truck is black and all the clear on the top side is burnt off and flaking. (at least that makes sanding scratches easier, but feather edging sucks where the clear is ) I'll get it painted one day. Its been raining eveyday here for the passed week, the only thing I have got done is new clear corners and driving lights... :roll:

how did you guys cut it in half? A mill or bandsaw? Was thinking if you milled it down a few .001's at a time it would show if theres any bore going all the way up. and if I removed the bypass line and capped it, then open the front bleeder it should shoot fluid out of that spot on the prop valve.. If not I think it would be safe to say that whole line is unneeded.... and then I could just cap it off at the tee in the rear and not have to f%

oh shucks.. just take your drivers side headlight out cut a hole and put some pipe into your air box out to the cool air.. just don't go busting through any water holes!!

I don't know what I'm going to do about my fender flares. They have been painted (from the factory I think) and theres paint chipped all over them. Every one of them have half the paint still sticking. I don't think I can sand it off without messing up the bare spots.. I hate to use stripper because it might deform or melt them... did your flares have paint on them already? I tried pressure washing them, with no luck. what would you do?

Do you have some type of antenna hooked up or does the laptop use the wireless card for positioning signal?

Good school.. I know where its at, they just had a big alumni bash last month. You know a guy Gorden Johnson? He married my cuz. Alecia Daves a few years back. Her dad owned Performance Counts, a shop in Farmville that builds race engines. Had many crazy nights at the hitching post and around campus' farms.. It's been awhile since I've been back there.. Next trip I'll have to let you know.

Your South East of Farmville aren't you? I use to live there, and around. Lived in Phenix, Prospect, Arvonia, and Buckingham.

You have mail.....

I think if its under the motor it would be classified as a ram air. If you wanted a cold air intake that was "truly" cold air and still go in water then a snorkel is the way to go

Great find.. looks really good,, I bet map lights would fit right up in there no prob..

Nope. When you add load to the bed, the axle stays where it is and the truck bed drops. The link rod pushes the arm on the proprtioning valve UP. If you shorten the rod, you pull the arm on the valve DOWN, which reduces your braking. If you want more brakes, make the rod longer. Hey Eagle you have anymore valves cut open?? Did I get the line labels right?

Now you need a audio card with preamp outs for the mp3 collection....

Work truck.... :laughin: :laughin: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: XLNT Job!! What all did you do to paint the grill and headlight doors?? I was at the paint store the other day and picked up some mar-hide satin black for bumpers I was thinking about using it with some adhesive promoter. Did you sand them or scotch-brit them??

From what I gather bleeding them, the rear height adjusting valve is a POS, rusting lines, crappy booster, and parking brake cables breaking... The biggest problem would be that height adjusting valve in the rear... But hey at least their not ABS,,,,,, gezzz I hate to see what that would be like........

I have a 96 xj booster I'm going to swap in. I'm just going to have to wait before I can get the right tools and parts together before it happens. I have replaced a few small lines on that valve anyways so I'm going to run it until everything is together to swap the xj's booster in. I live in NC so rust isn't on the top ten here. I just want to make sure I have everything right so I only have to do it once when it happens.. + I'm hoping Eagle will see this and post up more pics of cut away valves

You might want to try talking to the mall supervisor or whatever,, they may just let you tow it out of there, and then charge the guy a storage fee, serves him right just letting it sit there dying from thirst... It's inhumane I say! If he doesn't want it (as it seems) he should just say "The he!! with it",,, then your out what 40 bucks the most??

+ 3 you should here my girl cuss when I bout run off the road looking through junk yards while driving!! I like driving though the country on searches too... But hey, it works, I found a few just sitting in fields and what not on those drives...

At least you have a boy to escape with. Closest thing I have is a fixed female cat, who does keep me company in the garage and is learning how to pump the brake pedal quite well. :D :laughin: :rotfl2: :laughin: :rotfl2: :rotf:

Was there spose to be a link somewhere in that? yes. here http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... t=steering :smart:

deal for will !!

I would think you could do it by removing the wheel.....hummm.. I know an alignment shop can do it by adjusting the toe- in/out

here's a 3 spoke in black on fleabay.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250199633008&rd=1

Was there spose to be a link somewhere in that?

Easier,, swap'em,, cheaper,, tighten the joint.. I'm poor so I have to do the second :cry:

Can you make a leak down tester?? I've looked for them and can't find them without its own compressor for like under 5 bills.... was thinking if you just had one of those small air tanks and a better gauge, hooked up to a hose from a compression tester screwed in to your plug hole you might be able to get a good leak down reading