pingpong

You might have to add a washer to the inside of it. It will rotate your pinion a LIL, and move your axle forward some in the wheel well.

The reason why I say add a seat frame that is mounted to the cage is it is basically stamped steel and sheetmetal that is holding the seat in place. As for puttin git to the frame, I would hate to see a hrad roll that could push the cage through the sheetmetal floor. On a soft flop I bent one of my door bars, that is why I am rethinking my cage design, and am adding more stuff inside... just added insurance that I might be able to walk away from that hard or multiple roll As for the seats, since you make them get out on the insane stuff, and you feel safe with it the way it is... I say go for it.

I can't see if you ran a tube underneath to your frame, I would suggest that. I also would suggest a front windshield bar in the middle, but I know due to legality of blocking vision that is unreasonable. I also suggest that you, if you havent allready, build your seat frames into the cage. and make it all rigid, @$$ well as some race style seats and at least a 4 point harness.

After my last trip to PAP, and cutting a sidewall, I plan on running tubes in all my tires that don't have run flats/ double beadlocks. I would do the inside Patch, a lil better then a plug, and a more permanent repair

I just emailed FOA, hopefully they will get back to me soon, so I can decide weather or not to use them....

Those pics are at PAP arent they :cry:

Eagle well put.

Tell me where the Mogs are at.. I wil buy them for that. DC is right... lots of times you can find whole trucks for les then the price of axles individually. For me it was just easier to pay the dude the price, and have them delivered to my door from New Jersey

I got my 60 and 14 boltwith everything and in useable condition delivered for a lil over 1200, but I have seen them go for as lil as 600, but it didnt last long at that price.

They are H1's rims. They are not recentered yet, but they will be. The reason why you recenter them is cause they have like71/4" backspacing, which negates the advantage of being full width, and makes it harder to do a high steer conversion

They are 2" drop shackles from the chevy fullsize truck

I just get these today. The quality on the cut outs isn't as good as I expected, and it took longer then I expected to get as well

Thornbirds are basically an AT, everyone expects them to be a good mud tire cause of how aggressive they look, but look at how close the tread blaocks are, and how big they are. Basically ppl expect an AT to act like a MT or a bogger, and it just don't work that way

You can find a useable one from 600 and up, sometimes it is better to pick up both front and rear that are useable. you can find basket case axles for around 2 to 300. Expect to pay way more then that to reconditon.

Thats why they are only recommended tire pressures. You have to make sure you get a flat tread pattern, otherwise you will wear the center (over inflated) edges (underinflated)

Well everyone knows I am a fan of the cut up look :D

I will tell you why ppl think they are crap.... they read it on the net ;) I ran a set of pro comp AT's for a yr and a half on the street and trail... no issues with them... as a matter of fact those are the tires I took to Tellico the first time :eek: I sold them after about 10,000 strret and trail miles, and the guy I sold them to is still driving on them and that was well over 18 months ago :eek: So as for them sucking.... they read it on the web.

I want to say almost all vehicles, even RV;s have a vin number located on the front dash in the lower left hand corner. ther places to look are drivers door edge, glove box, and sometimes the cowl tag. Missing VIN number is a sure sign of a stolen ride :eek: Get a notorized bill of sale from the dude, then go to DMV, or local state police, and they can tell you what you need to do to become legit

I have had many of the same experiences when Pong was on the road. My favorite question used to be " where are your doors? or what happened to them?" :nuts:

It is if you are restoring a m715, but for the most part I agree.. not worth the money

8" wide rims are fine for that, especially with the amount of back spacing you have. Helll I ran 35x12.5's on 8's before :brows:

I did the same thing on Pong... its an ease thing. Btw looks good.. I would lower it some though... that tall cog, and rock crawling, equals some scarey feelins especially off camber

Run the front tires backwards on the trail... I had a set on lil pong... they worked all right.. just didnt lie the caly we have around here unless I gave them a liberal amount of wheel speed :D

The newer WJ/TJ have a cam bolt in the LCA to help adjust the caster.

I dint auctually measure them, but I found out that the 2.63 joint is considerably bigger. The re joint as in the whole body will fit inside the body of the ouuter case of the 2.63 joint. Also the bolt whole is a different size. My re ones are 3/8, while the Ballastic joints are 9/16. I guess you can buy the RE builder joints and go from there. They are pretty stout and reliable