pingpong

I was going to suggest moving your front mount forward, and moving the rear one forward as well, Or change to XJ leaves and center them in the wheel openings, then build mounts to suit the location. DC was right... Link it :brows:

I have been thinking of doing this to my 14 bolt, and having the ring gear turned down... But I am still on the fence about it. I think its a great nod, if you want to increase ground clearance, with out goin up in tire size. Definately build a good difcover/skid plate though

If you do the shackle and spacer I say YES if you have a basic set of tools, some PB bblaster, good jack, and a set of jack stands. Rear is easy... Just 2 bolts per side, but you will need a GOOD set of jack stands cause you have to support the rear of the truck from the midway point of your rig. Front is a lil harder, and here is where you can run into lots more problems. The way I install pucks, is to remove sway bar end links, UNbolt top of shock on both sides, Remove the driveshaft from the front axle( just unbolt and move out the way) Then Jack the rig up supporting the frame behind the lower control arm mount. This should let the front end drop way down, allowing easy Installationl of the lift pucks

Thats a lot of weight.... I would have tried to find come 2x4x3/16 C channel. But since you have that pice go for it. Got a question though... What are you going to do about the frame being further back then the bed? I got an Idea if you are game :brows:

There are several ways to try this build... the front suspension is going to be tricky, You can do a leaf spring set-up... In that case see Dirty comanche's build, You can do a custom 4 link, Dig deep and do lots of research, Or you can buy a kit from a manufacturer that will re-use the stock jeep style suspension, and all you do is weld on brackets. DC all ready pointed out that the LP front axle might cause caster issues, which might mean you will have to do a cut and turn on your knuckles. As for the engine setup... you are going to have to make your own brackets, cause Advance adapters stuff is set up for a drivers drop t-case, and moves the motor over 1" to the passanger side, since you are runnning a Chevy drivetrain, you won't have that extra inch on the Passenger side. Do lots of research and then do some more. I would not attempt this swap with at least 1500 bucks cash and the ability not to drive said vehicle for 2 months, and that is if you have everything you think you will need

2" Pucks for the front, chevy drop shackle for the rear, Dakota rear brake hose, some hard line extensions up front, and longer shocks of your choice. Shgould be able to piece it together for around 250

Keep in mind the 700r4 has a mid fluid pump, not the best for off cambers and hill climbs. Do a 4.3 easy enough to do a Pane conversion on them, plus they are cheap an everywhere. Dove tail the front, I am going to make mine just wide enough for the Rad, anythng more then that is a waste of space :eek: For steering just go full hydro, solves all issues with steering box and linkages, plus it is just cool :cheers:

Chris and Heather are awesome ppl, and as soon as I get something worthy of running there, I am going back :brows: That place is why Pong has a cage and has gone so far past extreme :driving:

Have fun, when you get back I need you to come visit me... I need to take measurements, and that what not of your rig

That sure is Crozet... That is Body Shop, going through it backwards :D Talk about fun :driving:

To get the 8.8 to work in the back of the MJ you are going to need perches, and wheel spacers. For the brakes I did the xj prop valve, and bled the brakes really well, and no issues This is the article I based my swap on yrs ago, I kinda used it as a guide http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html

Now that I know what ppl want I need Jeff to pop back on the site so I can make a few templates using his rig. Shipping on the bumpers won't be cheap, the one Jeff got from me even after removing the rock rails of the side weighed a bunch. Now thats not Pong on its side... Its a pic of Upper wompom at PAP, it is the far right line up the obstacle... kinda knarly line.. Puts you on some pretty off chamber stuff Here is a pic of Pong on his side

Each link with ends is going to weigh roughly 50lbs :eek: Lots of weight, but ppl are bending the 1/4 wall stuff and with the price of tubing the way it is.. I don't want to be building it twice

The snake tank was the best place to keep money inside the house.. no one would go in there to get it

Here is a pic of the rails I had on Pong... 3 mounts to the frame plus along the pinch weld here is a pic of the rear Needless to say the the hitch will be moved up and centered on the newer versions I gog to looking a there are a million companies offering the fronts, I guess I could do custom stuff local, like stingers and what not. BTW I just ordered this http://www.pro-tools.com/105.htm with the 6" 240* die :D

Do the rock rails... it will give it that custom look and will be easier in the long run

http://mpjai.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6105 That is the swap to do... Eddie has lowered the price to 200 bucks and everything is there but the fuel pump... Best bang for buck swap there

Thats why Pong is getting rebuilt for the 3rd time :eek: Can you say 3/8 wall 21/4 DOM :D

The reason why I say a compact frame, is cause It will be hard to get a MJ to look right on a full size frame. If I am not mistaken the 6.2/6.5 are close to the same size as a v-8 chevy. Using that theory you could do a basic v-8 style swap and make it work. Many companies are making adapters. As for placement of the axles, doing leafs front and rear is pretty easy, I would hate to say almost basic, in comparison to building link style. Also there are plenty of SAS kits out there for the s10's. Another Idea would be to use a CJ-8 frame :eek: Hmm think of the options

I don't see how.... I am more scared of a dog then I am a snake :eek: A snake you know is a snake, and if it bites you, it means you were doing wsomething wrong... dogs can turn in a minute. But here is a pic of my chow akita mix

Now the question is... for rails what thickness, and mount to the pinch weld or not? round or rectangle? I know some of you have seen MJjeffs rear... where it mounts flush with the tail gate, is that what you are liking, or would you want it to drop down and not need any body mods? I just now need to find a stock non butchered rig to start making a few templates

I am just wondering how much of a market is there for trail armor for MJ's I am talking front, rear, and rock rails. Here is waht I want to know. What size rails, and wall thickness? Weld on or bolt on?

Depending on the joints you use, and wether or not you use bushings at one end, you are looking at anywhere from 150 to 400 for joints depending on what you use. Then you would still need brackets, and if you made them your self a half a sheet of 1/4 plate. Lets not forget about link material. For the 1.25 size joints you need huge 1.5 ID tubing. I am looking at having to use 2.25 by .375 wall stuff, and That is going to cost me a pretty penny. I figure just in link tube is going to be 3-400 depending on what I order at the same time Most ppl who do the captured coils eventually end up doing coilovers or airshocks :brows: The cost savings is only minimal, by the time you figure in fab time and figuring out the right spring rate. Lots of ppl doing it though. To me it would just be as easy to do coilovers, easier mounts to fab. Also the captured coil rigs have more hieght for the most part

I thought the same thing that LA's would be better giving my wheeling style, and yeah they ride nicer, but the problem now is they are being used as ramps and skids :eek:

Man.... there is nothing to fear with snakes :brows: I used to have one till I got sick and the Dr's told me they carry funky bacteria, and my wifey wouldnt feed or water him. So I ended up giving Golliath away Here is a pic He was a colombian redtail boa, and this was a pic when he was a yr old... he was over 6' long when I gave him away