Geonovast

Just remember you need to reuse ALL your wiring, including your gauge cluster, and all heater control stuff. Just an FYI.

84-89 D35 should all use the same bearings.

Did you snap a shaft, or just need new bearings? Non C-clip D35 bearings are pressed onto the axle, and I believe retained with a clip on the shaft. Pretty sure you'll need a press to get the old one off, and the new one on. If you snapped a shaft, definitely don't bother buying new. Junkyard, or I'm sure someone on here has one sitting around. Remember, D35 shafts are not the same length.

That doesn't help with his question, which is about replacing the bushings in the axle. OP, I'm fairly certain you can also use a balljoint press with the correct adapters to replace them.

If a 1989 had a temp sensor in the thermostat housing, then someone swapped a 91+ thermostat housing onto it. The temp sender for the gauge is on the back on the head, driver's side. It has a single wire connector attached to it. Be very gentle with these, they break without warning.

Finding stock 4wd driveshafts is near impossible. Those that have them, aren't gonna let them go. After you factor in initial price and shipping for it, it's not cost effective, either. Having your 2wd one cut down is not bad. I paid $102, for a cut, balance, 2 new spicer joints installed(that right there is worth $40), and they even painted it for me.

http://springfield.craigslist.org/pts/2018249753.html Looks like it's got a CPS still bolted to it as well.

Pretty damn good deal if you ask me, and I'm gonna grab them if they're still available next time I'm up. http://madison.craigslist.org/pts/2018883526.html

Yup, my 2.5 came with them. And I hated them. I shouldn't have to lean back to use my side mirror.

Should work fine.

Marvel Mystery Oil is also a gas additive, Pete. Dunno why you'd need a specific device for this... just dump some in the tank when you fill up.

Yup, just make sure they are for the 10" diameter brakes. C-clip Dana 35s(90+ I believe), and the Chrysler 8.25 use 2.25" wide pads, with 9" diameter drums.

The 10x2 1/2 shoes are for the Dana 44. You need the 1 3/4 ones.

If they were toed out after lifting the front, that means they were toed out even more beforehand. Were there any recent changes to steering components? When I put the D30 on my 2.5 waaay back in the day, before I knew much, the whole steering rack went with it, because it seemed easier to do one disconnect at the pitman than retain my current steering rack. Shortly after, the outside of my front tires were near bald. Finally got told about the toe alignment, and I had almost a 6" toe in.

Bed length?

You don't need to remove the caliper bracket. Also, if there's any reason to think that U-joint might be on its last legs, now is the time to change it. That 30mm nut is a PITA, and changing the U-joint with the bearing attached to the shaft isn't fun.

AX-15 swap? :brows:

I had to hack 11 inches off my 2wd one for 4wd. :hmm:

Probably about 48 inches. You need a shorter shaft.

So when you startin that harassment suit? :brows:

Feel like driving to Missouri to get one? :brows:

Avoid bolt-on SOA kits.

Spline count has absolutely nothing to do with swapping the rear housing of the trans.

A good number of MJs did roll out of the factory without the XJ style mirrors. My 2.5 came with mirrors in that same spot, but they didn't look the same. Crap pic, but I'm pretty sure it's the only one I have before I put XJ style mirrors on.

Yes, when you raise the front of your truck, it causes your front tires to toe in much, much more than they're supposed to be. Toe alignments are very easy to do yourself. Your toe-in is probably the cause of your all-over-the-roadness, not a disconnected swaybar. Here's how to do the alignment: http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html