Geonovast

Everything will swap right over if you currently have a 5 speed. If you have a 4 speed, the axle ratios won't match, so you'd either need a different front axle or to move the XJ rear axle over (requires welding on new perches). If you have an auto, it's going to be a little more work. Regardless you're going to need to have your rear driveshaft shortened.

All I got was a little rain and a lot of lightning. I saw some pictures of what happened out in Oklahoma, it's insane. Looked like a field with roads. Wish I could get out there and help.

Long beds and short beds are not interchangeable, and no, the driveshafts are not the same length as the wheelbases are different.

I've never seen that before... did it leak at all?

Is it the same both directions? Your steering box may be off center. TJ is going to have a much better turning radius because it's so much shorter, so you may just be jaded.

Are you saying the Renix system does not have a speed sensor input to the computer? Does it? I've never seen or heard of one.

I seriously doubt any MJ does that. Certainly not the Renix, the computer never even knows if the vehicle is even moving. Certainly possible that the momentum of the truck with no throttle uses less gas than idling.

I'm betting it was simply a typo on his part. And yes, if you can unscrew the sender from the T-case, you'll be able to just screw a cable onto it. That's how I was able to run a 207 in a 91 for a few months.

I still don't know where you're getting NP 232 from, but it was never an XJ/MJ case. The AX-5 you're getting from him has a 231. I should know, I put it in the truck he took it out of. I don't remember which sender it has in it though. The first electric ones simply screwed onto the sender in the case like the cables did. I don't know when they switched to the single piece though, and unfortunately I can't recall which one's on there. I know it's from a 93. The NP 207 used its own sender that isn't compatible with the 231, but I don't know about the 2wd AX-4/5. I know the newer ones are the same as the 231, but again, not sure. The sender that's in your 2wd trans may drop into that 231.

You can't use an electronic speedo without doing a full 91+ wiring/control system conversion. You may simply need a longer cable to rear back to the T-case. You're going to need the 4wd lever, brackets, and shift linkages for the trans/t-case combo. Also, I think you mean 242, not 232. You won't need a new crossmember, that's only a concern with the AX-15. AX-4/5, BA 10/5, and AW4 all use the same crossmember, and there's no difference in 2wd and 4wd ones. Your current clutch lines will work, since you're already an external slave. You'll just retain your current bellhousing if you're using a newer trans.

Fuel rail has pressure, but how much?

I'm not blowing it out of proportion. I've been inside our transmissions. If the clutch is engaged and the motor running, the input shaft and counter shaft are both spinning, which causes all gears except the reverse idler to spin. If the motor is running, the only way to stop the counter shaft from spinning is to push in the clutch, which wouldn't make any sense to leave that in if you've popped the transmission into neutral.

But they would be moving if the clutch was engaged. The only way the gears wouldn't be moving is if the trans was in neutral and the clutch pedal was down.

That's quite possibly one of the stupidest things I've ever heard. I bet that's a large factor of why those transmissions are so crappy. I have always put my manual vehicles into neutral when coming to a stop unless I needed the motor to help slow me down. Why would anyone design a transmission with a system that damaged itself when moving in neutral? Which still doesn't make sense... when you're in one gear, as far as the synchros for the other gears are concerned, you're in neutral. I've been on this board for 6 years, and this is the first I have ever seen this come up. :hmm:

Probably a completely different issue, since the 2.5 was carburated in 85.

That is interesting... I've never had any of these quirky formatting issues that keep popping up. What browsers are you guys using?

Was not aware that 'yodas used a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern. Figured it would be metric... I wonder if they were rattlecanned so they wouldn't be identified as Jeep.

I don't understand a taboo about coasting in neutral downhill. There's nothing wrong with that. What there is a problem with, however, is the idiots I've talked to who've shut their motors off intentionally while coasting to "save gas." Usually incline related issues have to do with fuel delivery, but I'm still thinking you should tackle the hell out of your IAC before going any further. You say it idles fine, what about driving around on flat surfaces, traffic lights and such? Some IAC issues can be that it sticks for just a moment, so when you take your foot off the gas to start slowing down for a stop, it may try to die, but the trans keeps it going long enough for the engine to catch and keep itself going. Wouldn't be the case if you were popping it in neutral. If you go for a drive before you can take out the IAC, try popping it in neutral with no throttle on a level surface(and an empty road) to see what it does.

Yup, seems to be meaningless. My first two Jeeps were an 88 XJ Laredo Olympic, and 89 XJ Laredo. They were 100% identical (even color) except that the 89 had the 4 black nubs on the bumpers, and solid headrests.

Idle Air Controller. It's a small motor in the throttle body, it's what gives the motor air when you're not giving it any gas. They can stick and choke out the motor if nothing's keeping it going. Can be fixed(usually) by pulling the TB off, pulling the motor out, and cleaning everything up with 02 safe TB cleaner and a toothbrush.

Does it only do it when you pop it into neutral? Fire right back up? Sounds like the IAC to me.

MJs came with full consoles from the factory. And being that this is a Laredo, it's not at all surprising that it would have one. Also, no difference between XJ and MJ consoles.

It will be a direct swap. 2.5 and 2.8 Bells are identical. Crank sensor is in the exact same spot... computer doesn't care what type of slave it has. Just make sure you change the bearing retainer as well.

AFAIK the only difference between the head bolts is that the newer ones have a 12 point head. 1/2", IIRC. Rockauto has the hex head bolts for $41.

That's a very good question. I too, am now curious.