Drahcir495

More Pick-n-Pull goodies from today - I found a 1990 XJ with a high flow intake -> I have no idea who makes it? Picked it all up for $8, so it was well worth the price. I just need to polish it back up, and fabricated some sort of support leg for it. I went ahead and pulled off the NP231 Skid Plate too ->

Thanks, that is a fantastic write-up -> http://www.madxj.com/. That is exactly what the guy at TK said. I just can't imagine how a lift (with a solid axle) could possible change my camber 1.5*?! The only thing that I could see changing would be the caster - right? It has to be the old knuckles on the new axles?? The kit I got from Napa will give me +/- 1.5* for around $50. I hope it works :roll:. If not, I will be trying this next :popcorn: - Rich

Thanks, I can't wait either. :cheers:

That is because of the 97 ZJ V8 assembly that I am using. More pictures of it on page 4. - Rich

I get the front lift done on the MJ a few weeks ago, and I immediately notice that there was a problem -> :headpop: :mad: :headpop: :eek: :cry: :nuts: :headpop: :cry: I jack the axle up at the center section and the tires spring back into place. I am thinking strange, but it looks fine now. After finishing the rear axle, I take it down for a four wheel alignment. According to the manager at TK, the Camber is off -1.5 on both sides. Shiite! He suggested that I get some new adjustable ball joints. These are brand new ball joints, on a brand new axle housing – just my luck :mad:. I am pretty upset, and I start thinking what is wrong, and why does this seem to only happen to me. Every frickin write-up on this 44 swap touts that it is a simple bolt on project! Never once did I read about the $50 bucks in specialty bolts and nuts for the lower control arms :nuts:. I didn’t hear that I may need new extended sway bar brackets, because the drag link/tie rod is hammering the stock bracket. And they sure as heck didn’t mention this! I figure it is two late to go back now, I better just get the new ball joints. They are pricey; at around 1 hundred a piece on top of the specialty tools needed to press everything off and back on. Then I came across this post by xxmidianxx on NAXJA - http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... all+joints. This would allow me to keep my new ball joints, and cut down on cost and time :roll:, and hopefully correct the situation. I ordered the kits from Napa, now I just need the 4 prong spindle nut socket to arrive from Snap-on. I will post up picture of the install, and if it is successful, after I get it installed. :popcorn: - TBC 7/03 – I got the special camber adjusting kit from Napa (264-2072) -> And the special 4 prong socket from bwatsoncj at Gear Works :cheers: -> . I spent a couple of hours each night after work taking the front end apart. I supported the brake calipers up and out of the way like this -> . Use the 36mm socket on the spindle nut -> I had to run out and pick up a few of the tools that I had borrowed the fist time I swapped out the Dana 30 knuckles - the 33mm socket for the lower nut on the knuckle, a new ball joint fork, and a 12 point 13mm wrench and socket to get the bearing off -> . After I removed the bearing from the knuckle I was ready to pull out the shaft (EDIT: the axle shaft :oops:) -> . bwatsoncj called me later that night to see how I was coming along, and to remind me to expect gear oil to pour out of the axle now that the axle shafts were no longer there to contain the lube – a bit too late -> I had to use my shirt to stop the flow :nuts: . On the other side I just ended up plugging the hole back up with the shaft - FYI. – and avoided ruining another shirt. I removed the knuckle and secured it in the vice. The directions say to run the insert towards the inside of the knuckle (basically tightening it out) like this -> Thank god for bwatsoncj and Snap-on tools, and my personal favorite; PB Blaster. The DS was a biatch, but the PS was easily removed. Here are some comparisons of the inserts. Top view -> Side by side -> I screwed in the new insert from the bottom in -> The adjustment piece snaps in like this -> And when you get it all back together it should look something like this -> The after shot looks pretty good -> I had it aligned last night without any problems ! So I guess that this does work :D . Now I can get the tires on and complete the write up on the suspension lift. - Rich

I spent a few hours today changing out my old 7 piece grill -> I am going with the 3 piece style grill off a 1993 XJ. The grill looks like the old one on the MJ, but it is all black and in better shape. There are a few slight differences in the way the two mount, but it was almost a direct swap. The inner grill used the same original mounting points, but these side pieces -> There were two screw holes on the side light covers that have no place to screw into on our older headers, so I place a nut on the back of two filler screws to keep them in place. I also had to drill two small holes into the header (per side) to keep the side pieces snug up against the header. You can see the two holes openings in the picture above - far left side along the edge. There are two spots of fiberglass that needed to be ground downfor the side lights to sit flush -> After grinding -> Here I am test fitting the DS piece -> I also touched up my bumper and attached the brush guard and fog lights to it. Here is the converted front end with the bumper and brush guard on -> I am still working on getting my parts from the painter, so I am missing the badges, new side lenses, cowl part behind hood, and the list goes on :headpop: . -Rich

Wa-hooo, he scores! I can take that off my list then! - Rich

I just cut what I needed out of a junk yard donor and pop rivited it in -> It is all in my build-up page located in my sig. Page one / 3rd entry - Rich

*In my 89, I have a white 3 prong relay up under the drivers side dash - where my missing kick panel is. I found that when it is out, the horn doesn't work ;) . Brought the relay down to Auto Zone and comfirmed it - HTH Rich

Hey chico, Thanks for taking this on :cheers: I will be running 33x12.5x17 Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ radials on 17x8.5 rims, looks like I may be all alone :roll: - Rich

Got them hooked up :thumbsup: -> Thanks for the help - Rich

Do not ASSuME Rich. :D All relays have contacts that are either are NO (normally open) or NC (normally closed). To change the NO or NC state, either a ground OR 12V is applied to the relay coil. Current flows thru the coil, and the relay changes state. This is what your switches are applying to the relay coil. W/o seeing a schematic, I tend to agree with Motion Offroad's reply only because of the color code on the push button switches. It looks like the black wire (ground) should go on the rocker switch center pin, and the blue wires should go on the outside pins. If they are indicator rocker switches and they do not light up, reverse the blue wires. Dayem - I did not see the back wire, lol. I had to go out into the garage and check. I thought they were all blue :nuts: . You are correct, the relay wire is hot. Best not to ASSuME. Now I can figure it out with my volt meter. Thanks :D

Thanks for the reply - It is a Carling Technology switch, if that helps. My only question now is - since the relays are grounded, can I assume that the relay wire would be the ground wire? Thanks again, Rich

I hate that, but I am not going back in there for awhile. It can be frustrating, but when things start to work it is a great feeling. I am not done yet, so it was not as bad as I thought (up to this point) :cheers: I don't know where that thing is :???:. Luck of the draw is on your side, it is a bit annoying :cheers: You got it Wahoo! They don't come through often :rant: . Correct me on this - did the D44 rear only come with the Metric Ton kit and springs? - Dra(H before C)ir :roll: :brows: Just busting your chops because I know you will appreciate it. :cheers:

I will let you know when a MJ with the Dana 44 pops up :cheers:

That is nice 8) . I would like to get one - great price - but I would have to wait until my MJ is done for the proper picture :D . PM me your paypal info if you think you could sit on one for a while? Anyhoo, looks really nice - Rich

Please - somebody help! I am trying to ditch the ugly push button switches that were included in the Eaton locker kits. I bought some new rocker switches to replace them and they diddn't come with instruction :nuts:. Where do I place these wires (on the push button switch)-> Onto the new rocker switches (like this on the back) -> The numbers are (clockwise from the top) 4-3-2. I have to find out where to place the relay wire, the 12v power wire, and the ignition wire :dunno: without blowing something up. Thanks, Rich

Thanks BLHTAZ! Just let me know if you need me to keep an eye out for something :thumbsup: . I am down there a lot. -Rich

How do you keep yours in :laughin:, mine just fall out! I seemed to have luck pushing them towards the front (direction of windshield) and then using my finger nails, or a small screwdriver, and carefully prying it out. These were dome lights at the Pick-N-Pull, so I wasn't too concerned with damage :brows: I guess you could also take the top screw out of the trim piece and pop it out from behind? - Rich

I was starting to believe that I was going to have to pull another wiring harness out to replace mine. I decided that today I would try everything I could to repair the existing harness, and if I was unsuccessful, I would pick up another from the pick-n-pull next weekend. Nothing in the cab was working except what was needed to start-up and run the Comanche. I never had interior lights, dash light, buzzers, tail lights, radio, clock, etc. Well that is not entirely true – I had a functioning clock up until 3 weeks ago??? The PO had a hot wire running to the brake stop switch, and a few unknown wires and splices underneath the dash. I quickly learned that most of my problems were caused by the leak in the fire wall above the fuse box. I spent a good deal of time removing rusted fuses, repairing corroded connectors, and installing new fuses and relays with dialectic grease. Now I have functioning courtesy lights -> My map lights work in all three position too -> I was also able to get my radio to power up and blast out some tunes (Back to Black by Amy Winehouse)-> It is absolutely amazing to see the light in the glove box turn on, the windshield wipers start moving (I wasn’t aware that they did not work, lol), and a screeching buzzer sound-off when I turn the key! I am really excited that I may be able to repair all this myself, and keep the original harness. I am going to work on getting the tail lights to work tomorrow. The blinkers work, and they light up when the headlights are turned on, but nothing happens when I apply the brakes. I have a new brake stop switch ready to go in, so that may fix the problem? There is a rats nest of wiring out back for several trailer light connection tapped into the rear wiring harness – not good. After the taillight problem, I will just need to complete the CB & Eaton locker wiring and I am done. - Rich.

Any fish in there? Looks nice. I will be getting the back half of this completed :D ->

Try here -> http://yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html

That is pretty cool. Don't see thinks like that every day :thumbsup:

Thank you sir! I will let him know - Rich

I hope, no I know that some of you on here can tell me if there are any differences in the way a Short Wheel Base bumper mounts vs. a LWB. I am working on getting a rear bumper made and the fabricator only has a SWB MJ on hand for reference. I realize the bumper itself is the same, I just need to know about the mounting arms and anything else that may be different between the two. If this works out, we may have another rear bumper option for the MJ! Thanks - Rich