Drahcir495

Please - somebody help! I am trying to ditch the ugly push button switches that were included in the Eaton locker kits. I bought some new rocker switches to replace them and they diddn't come with instruction :nuts:. Where do I place these wires (on the push button switch)-> Onto the new rocker switches (like this on the back) -> The numbers are (clockwise from the top) 4-3-2. I have to find out where to place the relay wire, the 12v power wire, and the ignition wire :dunno: without blowing something up. Thanks, Rich

Thanks BLHTAZ! Just let me know if you need me to keep an eye out for something :thumbsup: . I am down there a lot. -Rich

How do you keep yours in :laughin:, mine just fall out! I seemed to have luck pushing them towards the front (direction of windshield) and then using my finger nails, or a small screwdriver, and carefully prying it out. These were dome lights at the Pick-N-Pull, so I wasn't too concerned with damage :brows: I guess you could also take the top screw out of the trim piece and pop it out from behind? - Rich

I was starting to believe that I was going to have to pull another wiring harness out to replace mine. I decided that today I would try everything I could to repair the existing harness, and if I was unsuccessful, I would pick up another from the pick-n-pull next weekend. Nothing in the cab was working except what was needed to start-up and run the Comanche. I never had interior lights, dash light, buzzers, tail lights, radio, clock, etc. Well that is not entirely true – I had a functioning clock up until 3 weeks ago??? The PO had a hot wire running to the brake stop switch, and a few unknown wires and splices underneath the dash. I quickly learned that most of my problems were caused by the leak in the fire wall above the fuse box. I spent a good deal of time removing rusted fuses, repairing corroded connectors, and installing new fuses and relays with dialectic grease. Now I have functioning courtesy lights -> My map lights work in all three position too -> I was also able to get my radio to power up and blast out some tunes (Back to Black by Amy Winehouse)-> It is absolutely amazing to see the light in the glove box turn on, the windshield wipers start moving (I wasn’t aware that they did not work, lol), and a screeching buzzer sound-off when I turn the key! I am really excited that I may be able to repair all this myself, and keep the original harness. I am going to work on getting the tail lights to work tomorrow. The blinkers work, and they light up when the headlights are turned on, but nothing happens when I apply the brakes. I have a new brake stop switch ready to go in, so that may fix the problem? There is a rats nest of wiring out back for several trailer light connection tapped into the rear wiring harness – not good. After the taillight problem, I will just need to complete the CB & Eaton locker wiring and I am done. - Rich.

Any fish in there? Looks nice. I will be getting the back half of this completed :D ->

Try here -> http://yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html

That is pretty cool. Don't see thinks like that every day :thumbsup:

Thank you sir! I will let him know - Rich

I hope, no I know that some of you on here can tell me if there are any differences in the way a Short Wheel Base bumper mounts vs. a LWB. I am working on getting a rear bumper made and the fabricator only has a SWB MJ on hand for reference. I realize the bumper itself is the same, I just need to know about the mounting arms and anything else that may be different between the two. If this works out, we may have another rear bumper option for the MJ! Thanks - Rich

I took out my courtesy lights to test them. They work great, so the lack of light in the cab it is a part of a larger problem :headpop: . Before I placed them back home, I realized how much I hate the chrome trim. I decided to try and change that, so I stripped the old chrome coating off and really cleaned out the old lenses -> I cleaned up all the contact points, and then lube them up with some dialectic grease. I painted the light housing with some black trim paint and reassembled it -> Used some more dialectic grease on the connector and put them back in the Jeep. They look much better in black ->

Just awesome How about a picture of the spare tire mount :brows:

Had a few hours to work on the Comanche this weekend, so I work on a couple of accessories. I installed the PA speaker for my CB -> I figured this was the best spot; I need to make sure that there will be room to try and fit some air horns somewhere under there too. I wanted to have a quick disconnection point for accessories like a winch, jumper cables, etc. I ordered Plug-to-Lug cable {http://www.quickcable.com} to permanently mount to the front tow plate with a cover to protect the industrial battery connector. I went with 2 Gauge, 175 amp cable that was 5 feet long to be make sure it could make it to the battery. I found a spot that would be easy to access and would provide the least obstructed path to the battery. I mounted it next to the shackle bracket on the tow plate to provide maximum protection. I did not have any 1/4 -20 nuts for the stainless steel bolts I had, so I just ended up tapping out some holes in the 1/4 inch tow plate for the 1/4-20 bolts (ooh, sneak peak of the RE lift)-> . I made up two spacers, and secured it using the SS bolts -> Here is the connector with the protective cover on -> I also bought a 25 foot Clamp-to-Plug cable, for jump starting any other stalled vehicles. Again, I went used the 2 Gauge Cable & industrial battery connector, but with 500 amp rating. The jumper cables connected to the quick connector -> While I was placing the cable order, I picked up an extra industrial battery connector in anticipation of a possible future winch? I also picked up a few marine battery terminals and protectors -> I still need to work on tucking the cable out of harms way, but that won’t be an issue. I can’t wait to try it out - Rich

Good question? I would think that the replacement seals would be what was available for that year; just new? In my opinion, the newer (98.) seals are better designed. IIRC we have a member who works for a Jeep Dealership's parts department . I am pretty sure his screen name is BLHTAZ. I would PM him and ask - he has always seemed eager to help out others on this forum. Edit: I would also post this question in Tech - we have a lot of knowledgeable members on this forum. - Rich

The interior of the Comanche is getting wet when it rains. I have narrowed the leaks down to the rear window and the top of the doors. I adjusted the door in a little to try and correct the problem. It seemed to work, but I am still not satisfied. I was going to order a new set of door seals until I read an article online about using the newer XJ door seals. Today at the Pick-N-Pull, I found a 1998 XJ and grabbed the seals off of it. Even if they were going to be the same style they were going to be close to a decade newer than what I already have. I got them home and compared the 1998 door seals to the 1989 seals. There is some difference in thickness and shape, but they look like they are going to be an exact fit . The 1998 is on the left -> And in this picture the newer seal is on the bottom -> Here is the old seal on the driver’s side -> And then after installing the newer style seal -> Then I did the same thing with the passenger side. Old seal -> During the switch over -> Then with the passenger side complete -> The newer seals are ten fold better than the originals. I think a part of the improvement could be because the original seals were close to 20 years old, and these are under 10. But the new design and bulk of the seals make the doors water tight. The doors take a bit more effort to close them now, which is alright by me! I still have to give them the water test when I am able to get her back on four wheels, but I am not concerned at all about leaking in these areas. - Rich

Thanks guys. I have no idea where I am going to put the antenna yet. Make sure you post pictures of your CB antenna mounting spot mvusse. I did install the P.A. speaker in the front. I will have to get a picture of that in here. - :cheers: Rich

I just completed what I feel is one of the coolest mods that has ever worked out for me . I was debating on where to place my CB. I started thinking about placing it inside the center console, or where the parking brake handle should be (mine has the parking brake up in the DS foot well). Then I figured with a bit of jerry rigging, it may be able to fit it up in the tray of the center console. I removed the XJ air diffuser box and slid the CB right in. I had to remove a small support tab in the back of the box so that there would be room for the antenna cable to hook up. I also cut the box so the CB would sit flush up against the top of the box -> I also had to decide on how I was going to support the CB in the air diffuser box. I remembered that I had some of the Velcro pieces left over from my headliner install and decided that that would work fine. I contact cemented two pieces in the air diffuser box-> And two of the opposing Velcro pieces to the CB itself -> After I let the Velcro strips dry overnight, the CB was securely fastened inside the air diffuser box -> Now I had to work on the center console coin tray. I quadruple checked the dimensions on the CB, and then transferred the measurements onto the plastic. I quadruple checked these to make sure that I would only have to cut once -> Satisfied with the measurements; I cut out the unwanted plastic. I cut a tad under the marks to make up for any angles in the cuts, unsteady hands, etc. And it much easier to take a little of the plastic off with a file if need be, then to have taken too much off and have no options to correct it. This is the ugly side you will never see -> I realize that I will not be able to hear anything out of the internal CB speaker, so I decided to mount an external speaker on the back of the center console like this -> I got everything back together and found it is damn near a perfect fit. I may take a bit off the top to allow for more visibility of the display. Other than that, everything fits and can be switched/turned on and off. It just needs to be cleaned up now. Drum rolls please-> I just finished it up about an hour ago. The picture could be better but that is what you get for 9 o’clock in a dark garage.

I had them nesting in between the headliner and the roof. They took a lot of the backing material off the headliner, and a handful of the carpet "lint" to build quite a nest up there.

I did the Oizarod115 thing, but I flipped my first name around. I got the number from my first jeep - an 1982 CJ7 Jamboree edition #495 :brows:

Sa-weet I am in the Tarpon Springs area, Tampa being the closest identifiable landmark. We need to get a Southern Pow-Wow going - Rich

I am in the Tampa area :cheers:

I spoke with Barney from Eaton this afternoon about my concerns with this new (to me) information. First off, he told me that there has never been a “safety feature” to protect the axles on the Elockers. Any talk of a fail-safe in the Eaton locker, according to Barney, is just a case of miscommunication/misinformation. He was quite frank in telling me that he has seen a few broken Elockers, but he has also seen broken Detroit lockers. “Anything that we build, someone will find a way to break it.” He also warned me that when the Elocker is engaged, it is a spool. It was designed to be used to overcome an obstacle, then once it is cleared, disengaged. It is his belief that a few of the broken lockers were a result of engaging the lockers at speeds. Barney went on to tell me of all the testing that they had done recently in an YJ out at a recent (I forget the name) off-road event. No problems or breaks. And he also spoke of his confidence in this product. Since I will not be beating in on the rocks everyday, with a 3:1 transfer case and nitrous, I am very sure that I will not have any problems. Barney was very straight forward with his answers and invited me to call back with any other concerns or questions. On a side note, he mentioned that they are in production for a 4 pin design for the 30. Bottom line is that I am going to keep the Elockers and hope that if I do have an issue it will be with in the 1 year warrantee. And should a problem manifest itself at any time, based on this customer service experience, I believe that the issue will be satisfactorily resolved. - Rich

We have seen the exact same issue. Oh no :roll:. I hope this doesn't become an issue with mine.

I am doing this right now. Getting the knuckles off the 30 was a ho-wore. I am working on getting the caster right {the drag link is hitting my axle side sway bar mount} this weekend and doing the write up on it. I don't know if they mention it in the article or not, but you are going to have to order $50 in specialty hardware {nut and bolts}for the lower control arms. The factory bolts will not work. - Rich

Cool junk yard tip number two - I noticed that the front disc brake bleeder valves on some of the JY XJs had rubber covers. I grabbed a bunch while I was there -> They make awesome Zerk fitting covers -> Cleaned them up after the picture ;) I have them on all my Zerk fittings now :D - Rich