-
Posts
2846 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by Drahcir495
-
I saw SW2’s thread on updating the shifter knob here -> http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=, and thought it I should give it a try. I can’t stand the dildo looking shifter that the PO left in it, so I got a TJ 5-speed knob to replace it -> While I was tightening the new one on it SNAPPED off in my hand! :mad: Fixed it on page 9 ->
-
Fixed the camber problem -> The write up is on page 7 8) - Rich
-
Sa-weet, thats the one! Thanks #2
-
I lost all my favorites when my computer crashed :cry: . Can anyone tell me the name of (or the link to) the site that has all the MJ owners on the USA/World map? I thought it was Flicker, but I can't find it. Thanks, Rich
-
Yep - "Juneteenth is the oldest nationally celebrated commemoration of the ending of slavery in the United States. From its Galveston, Texas origin in 1865, the observance of June 19th as the African American Emancipation Day." Been around for 143 years???
-
Now it would not be any fun if we just told you :nuts: I had to google it ;)
-
You had to make me look it up :clapping:. Never heard of it until today 8) - Rich
-
[Fender installed and antenna screwed on: Close up of antenna: Pretty ingenious work there . I like it :cheers: - Rich
-
And what it looks like on the truck: Only problem now is, where to put the FM radio antenna? Might just have to put it on the ds fender, just to be different. That looks pretty darn good :cheers:. Anyway to get a combo antenna, something that would work as a CB and Radio antenna? Thanks for getting back to me on that - and again, pretty sweet looking - Rich
-
More Pick-n-Pull goodies from today - I found a 1990 XJ with a high flow intake -> I have no idea who makes it? Picked it all up for $8, so it was well worth the price. I just need to polish it back up, and fabricated some sort of support leg for it. I went ahead and pulled off the NP231 Skid Plate too ->
-
Thanks, that is a fantastic write-up -> http://www.madxj.com/. That is exactly what the guy at TK said. I just can't imagine how a lift (with a solid axle) could possible change my camber 1.5*?! The only thing that I could see changing would be the caster - right? It has to be the old knuckles on the new axles?? The kit I got from Napa will give me +/- 1.5* for around $50. I hope it works :roll:. If not, I will be trying this next :popcorn: - Rich
-
Thanks, I can't wait either. :cheers:
-
That is because of the 97 ZJ V8 assembly that I am using. More pictures of it on page 4. - Rich
-
I get the front lift done on the MJ a few weeks ago, and I immediately notice that there was a problem -> :headpop: :mad: :headpop: :eek: :cry: :nuts: :headpop: :cry: I jack the axle up at the center section and the tires spring back into place. I am thinking strange, but it looks fine now. After finishing the rear axle, I take it down for a four wheel alignment. According to the manager at TK, the Camber is off -1.5 on both sides. Shiite! He suggested that I get some new adjustable ball joints. These are brand new ball joints, on a brand new axle housing – just my luck :mad:. I am pretty upset, and I start thinking what is wrong, and why does this seem to only happen to me. Every frickin write-up on this 44 swap touts that it is a simple bolt on project! Never once did I read about the $50 bucks in specialty bolts and nuts for the lower control arms :nuts:. I didn’t hear that I may need new extended sway bar brackets, because the drag link/tie rod is hammering the stock bracket. And they sure as heck didn’t mention this! I figure it is two late to go back now, I better just get the new ball joints. They are pricey; at around 1 hundred a piece on top of the specialty tools needed to press everything off and back on. Then I came across this post by xxmidianxx on NAXJA - http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... all+joints. This would allow me to keep my new ball joints, and cut down on cost and time :roll:, and hopefully correct the situation. I ordered the kits from Napa, now I just need the 4 prong spindle nut socket to arrive from Snap-on. I will post up picture of the install, and if it is successful, after I get it installed. :popcorn: - TBC 7/03 – I got the special camber adjusting kit from Napa (264-2072) -> And the special 4 prong socket from bwatsoncj at Gear Works :cheers: -> . I spent a couple of hours each night after work taking the front end apart. I supported the brake calipers up and out of the way like this -> . Use the 36mm socket on the spindle nut -> I had to run out and pick up a few of the tools that I had borrowed the fist time I swapped out the Dana 30 knuckles - the 33mm socket for the lower nut on the knuckle, a new ball joint fork, and a 12 point 13mm wrench and socket to get the bearing off -> . After I removed the bearing from the knuckle I was ready to pull out the shaft (EDIT: the axle shaft :oops:) -> . bwatsoncj called me later that night to see how I was coming along, and to remind me to expect gear oil to pour out of the axle now that the axle shafts were no longer there to contain the lube – a bit too late -> I had to use my shirt to stop the flow :nuts: . On the other side I just ended up plugging the hole back up with the shaft - FYI. – and avoided ruining another shirt. I removed the knuckle and secured it in the vice. The directions say to run the insert towards the inside of the knuckle (basically tightening it out) like this -> Thank god for bwatsoncj and Snap-on tools, and my personal favorite; PB Blaster. The DS was a biatch, but the PS was easily removed. Here are some comparisons of the inserts. Top view -> Side by side -> I screwed in the new insert from the bottom in -> The adjustment piece snaps in like this -> And when you get it all back together it should look something like this -> The after shot looks pretty good -> I had it aligned last night without any problems ! So I guess that this does work :D . Now I can get the tires on and complete the write up on the suspension lift. - Rich
-
I spent a few hours today changing out my old 7 piece grill -> I am going with the 3 piece style grill off a 1993 XJ. The grill looks like the old one on the MJ, but it is all black and in better shape. There are a few slight differences in the way the two mount, but it was almost a direct swap. The inner grill used the same original mounting points, but these side pieces -> There were two screw holes on the side light covers that have no place to screw into on our older headers, so I place a nut on the back of two filler screws to keep them in place. I also had to drill two small holes into the header (per side) to keep the side pieces snug up against the header. You can see the two holes openings in the picture above - far left side along the edge. There are two spots of fiberglass that needed to be ground downfor the side lights to sit flush -> After grinding -> Here I am test fitting the DS piece -> I also touched up my bumper and attached the brush guard and fog lights to it. Here is the converted front end with the bumper and brush guard on -> I am still working on getting my parts from the painter, so I am missing the badges, new side lenses, cowl part behind hood, and the list goes on :headpop: . -Rich
-
Wa-hooo, he scores! I can take that off my list then! - Rich
-
I just cut what I needed out of a junk yard donor and pop rivited it in -> It is all in my build-up page located in my sig. Page one / 3rd entry - Rich
-
*In my 89, I have a white 3 prong relay up under the drivers side dash - where my missing kick panel is. I found that when it is out, the horn doesn't work ;) . Brought the relay down to Auto Zone and comfirmed it - HTH Rich
-
Got them hooked up :thumbsup: -> Thanks for the help - Rich
-
Do not ASSuME Rich. :D All relays have contacts that are either are NO (normally open) or NC (normally closed). To change the NO or NC state, either a ground OR 12V is applied to the relay coil. Current flows thru the coil, and the relay changes state. This is what your switches are applying to the relay coil. W/o seeing a schematic, I tend to agree with Motion Offroad's reply only because of the color code on the push button switches. It looks like the black wire (ground) should go on the rocker switch center pin, and the blue wires should go on the outside pins. If they are indicator rocker switches and they do not light up, reverse the blue wires. Dayem - I did not see the back wire, lol. I had to go out into the garage and check. I thought they were all blue :nuts: . You are correct, the relay wire is hot. Best not to ASSuME. Now I can figure it out with my volt meter. Thanks :D
-
Thanks for the reply - It is a Carling Technology switch, if that helps. My only question now is - since the relays are grounded, can I assume that the relay wire would be the ground wire? Thanks again, Rich
-
I hate that, but I am not going back in there for awhile. It can be frustrating, but when things start to work it is a great feeling. I am not done yet, so it was not as bad as I thought (up to this point) :cheers: I don't know where that thing is :???:. Luck of the draw is on your side, it is a bit annoying :cheers: You got it Wahoo! They don't come through often :rant: . Correct me on this - did the D44 rear only come with the Metric Ton kit and springs? - Dra(H before C)ir :roll: :brows: Just busting your chops because I know you will appreciate it. :cheers:
-
I will let you know when a MJ with the Dana 44 pops up :cheers:
-
That is nice 8) . I would like to get one - great price - but I would have to wait until my MJ is done for the proper picture :D . PM me your paypal info if you think you could sit on one for a while? Anyhoo, looks really nice - Rich
