Oddmodman
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Everything posted by Oddmodman
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Approximately 80% of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources. Ronald Reagan Bloody Californian dip$****
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In gasoline, TB, or vacuum yes, but I wouldn't put it in the oil. If I really needed to de-sludge a crankcase, I'd use ATF a couple hundred miles before an oil change. Atleast it's supposed to clean and expand rubber seals so you don't spring new leaks.
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Cummins B3.3 Powered Mj Build!
Oddmodman replied to krustyballer16's topic in MJ Hardcore Tech: Epic Journeys to Greatness
I've been hunting for 3.3 conversions! Subbed.- 299 replies
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I back the CPS theory. Mine was hard starting and rough running till I pulled the CPS, cleaned it, and to boot I did Cruiser's CPS overbore trick. Mucho bettero now.
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Cool that you got it working. Something that I did that made my Cherokee start quicker was Cruiser's over-bored CPS holes. Probably just made the spark a bit stronger.
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Cuz I didn't know they existed when I found one for free, with a blown 2.5, and after some reading realized I could just get a cheap 2.5l XJ off Craigslist for a motor. So I found one for 150 clams and after a couple days work, I had me a good looking truck, and it came with gorgeous m/t's to boot! And obviously since I hadn't heard of it, it was quite uncommon to say the least, so the rarity or wow factor is more than just a bonus. An old lady walking past in the library parking lot stopped at the tailgate of my truck just as I was about to get in and remarked to me that my truck looked great and she didn't know Jeep had ever made such a truck. Made everything worth it.
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This is an old thread yes, but to address ftpiercecracker1's statement about a small vehicle with 4 corner leafs, try this on for size: http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/0302-4wd-1970-suzuki-lj10/ I want one of these so bad I'd trade my MJ and my Samurai for one in decent condition.
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I just replaced the CPS on my Cherokee the other day. With a ujoint and assorted extensions it was quite easy. Took about 15 mins to replace. A pain, yes, but quick.
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Lost The Only Key! Solutions?
Oddmodman replied to Oddmodman's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
That's cool. Makes sense. I didn't think of it. -
Lost The Only Key! Solutions?
Oddmodman replied to Oddmodman's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Actually that wasn't the trouble I had. Thanks though lol. I had just bought the vehicle and piled up a bunch of parts and grabbed the keys to go outside and fix it. After I dropped the parts in the back, I went to start and move it...but the keys were gone! Coulda dropped them or put them in a pocket with a hole, or put them somewhere momentarily. Anyway I lost them and looked for days inside and out, even though it snowed the next day, and I've strip-cleaned my living room since then and I'm forced to suppose they're lost outside under a few feet of snow and ice. Oh well. -
I just fixed it. I cleaned all connection points on the printed back, the 3 screws holding the gauge in, as well as pronouncing the spring on the jack that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster. Somewhere between those 3 things it was resolved. Thank you for your help everybody, especially Eagle. Thanks :bowdown:
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Ok I'll see if I have to resort to that after I've put it all back together. Now I realize that the sender itself is self-grounded, but are there any other grounds that could be the issue? Oh, and the continuity of the printed connector sheet on the back of the cluster is good, so that isn't the issue either.
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Seems the gauge is good. So, I've cleaned all the connections, we'll see where that'll get me. If that doesn't do it, I'm at a total loss.
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Btw, assuming the gauge IS bad, I do have a spare dummy-light gauge and corresponding sender. Could I just swap those in? Keep in mind I'm selling this vehicle. I wouldn't do it to my own lol.
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I checked for that, only visually though. It seemed good. I'm going to battery check the gauge right now. Thanks Eagle.
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I pulled the gauge out of the cluster and visually inspected it. It looked ok, the tiny copper filaments weren't broken, nothing else seemed broken, so I put it back in and made sure the screws on the back were tight. Still no cigar. This means I honestly have a bad gauge? Didn't think gauges went bad...
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Alright, it does indeed have continuity up to the instrument connector. So what now, I have a bad gauge and it needs replacing, or can I remove it and clean it, or does the Russian method of beat it with a wrench work?
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Lost The Only Key! Solutions?
Oddmodman replied to Oddmodman's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Btw, old post yes, but I did get a key made. Took the tumbler out, gave it to the locksmith, and $18 later I had two working keys. -
Yeah 10-4 on the teflon. Read that yesterday. Thanks though. I'll be pulling it apart today if I can. Thanks for the input Jeepers.
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To test for continuity I'd have to pull the gauge cluster out just to get to the wire huh?
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Okay, I just unscrewed the brass hexagonal fitting and it was clean, no sludge at all. So, while it was off I had my roommate crank it over and oil made a fountain a couple feet high, ergo the pump does indeed work. So I then checked the plug to Eagle's specs, and the needle didn't move. It barely twitched, though it did move a hair's breadth. Definitely a wiring problem. Any idea where I go from here?
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The gauge should be good. It was working when I first got the vehicle, then quit midway through a couple hundred mile trip this winter. The sender itself is indeed the correct one for real gauges, so that's not the issue either. I'm thinking I either have a plugged feeder or a broken circuit between the sender and the gauge. I'm going to go check it out right now. Thanks for the input.
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Hello again, a few of you recently helped me out with my '90 Cherokee. On the same vehicle( 4.0 5spd), the oil gauge doesn't read anything, though I'm almost positive the oil pump is still good. It died on a trip this winter. I tried ohming it out, and got erratic readings. Also tried using another working sender from an MJ, and I still got no gauge action. I'm curious if the sender feeder, or whatever it's called, can get plugged since it's only the size of a pinhole? Only idea I got.
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Bogs At 2300+ But Under 2300 Is Smooth
Oddmodman replied to Oddmodman's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I fixed it!! It was indeed the cat. The cat-to-downpipe bolts I couldn't get out because I couldn't find a wrench to fit them - bigger than 13, smaller than 14, bigger than 1/2, smaller than 9/16; probably just rust-warped. So I divorced the cat from the muffler, and sure enough, exhaust was packed with converter chunks. Since I couldn't just drive a hole through it, I used long needlenose pliers and pulled each chunk out. Some were too big so I had to crush them into smaller chunks. All in all it took about 45 mins to clear out. Thank you everybody for your help! She revs like a demon now :clapping: . PS, I just reattached it and I'm leaving it alone since I'm selling it anyway. Once I get rid of this I'm one step closer to being able to work on my real project: fixing my . :MJ 2: . -
Bogs At 2300+ But Under 2300 Is Smooth
Oddmodman replied to Oddmodman's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
A) No inspection. I think Alaska's probably got the cleanest air in the US. B) I'd probably go get a cherry bomb to replace it C) When the law is stupid, I don't mind breaking it :USAflag: .
