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  2. Grey mirco console has sold. Everything else listed is still available and open to offers. I need this stuff gone so make me an offer. Thanks for looking.
  3. The head gasket could do that as it is steam escaping through what could be failing valve seals. Which means you will need a head rebuild. The valve seals can be had for cheap and you could replace them on you own and completely skip the professional rebuild step. But I wouldn't recommend just replacing the seals if the head has never been serviced
  4. The smoke out of the valve cover looks white to me. After driving the Jeep about a mile I opened the radiator and found it was half a gallon low. Added water to top it back off and oil floated to the top. I think it is safe to say the head gasket is done. Can a toasted head gasket cause the smoke out of the valve cover? I am willing to throw $40 worth of head gasket and other gaskets at it with minimal R&R on the head/block. Not willing to re-ring the bottom end. Again, just looking to get another 5k-10k miles out of this engine if I can. Not too worried if I can't. Definitely not my daily driver, I have three vehicles ahead of this one before it is.
  5. True. Seems to be a tough question to answer. Go low and work your way up.
  6. You can take a reasonable guess by looking at what they power and what gauge the wire is... At the end of the day the fuse is not protecting the device it is hooked to, it's protecting the truck from burning down. I think I replaced most of them with 20A fuses, save for the alternator one. But I'd have to look. My harness has about half of it cut out, so it's not exactly a fair representation either.
  7. FWIW- I have no idea what the values are of the fused links. I've asked here in the past and no one else seemed to know. Links are available, at least at independent stores here and I've asked what the values are, no one here knows either. So, ask again, maybe someone will come up with something. I decided to go another route. Guess you'll need to decide also........maybe you can buy used ones from someone here? Or create your own fused panel?
  8. That's fusible link F. Could it be fusible link H?
  9. Today
  10. It's one of the green fusable links coming off my starter relay. According to the manual it's the link connected to my ignition switch. My orange link to the fuel pump and the ecu is fine.
  11. I counted wrong. It branched off into 3 red wires.
  12. I might have one. Can look tomorrow evening Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  13. Isn't that ORG fusible link? Which fusible link was blown?
  14. Dana 35 diff guard/skid plate kit. Still new. Attempted an install, won’t work if your height sensing valve is still operational as the kit needs that piece of metal that holds the bar gone to install. $50+shipping. Feel free to make me an offer on any of these parts!
  15. If I had a little more cash I could deal with it a little better. I'm going to have to get it good enough for work for a couple of weeks because I just don't have the funds to replace anything else for a while. Fortunately chasing shorts is free. I did pull back my fuse box and didnt find any bad wires. A couple of the connections were loose and I tightened them with a pick. Will be cleaning it as the day goes on.
  16. It's possible, none of us are there so..........just guessing............ If the headlight switch has melted down, it could be back-feeding a 12v circuit, the ignition circuit somehow. It's aggravation, I know, but you are just going to have to start stripping it down and chasing and inspecting.
  17. Your right, I need to tear into the fuse box. I have been putting it off but it looks like I can't anymore. I'll go through your old thread. As a side note, I just ordered some comancheclub stickers! I really appreciate all the help from you folks. As I get more experience I'll be able to return the favor some day. You guys are really cool and I'm happy to be a part of this group.
  18. So I traced the burnt green fusible link to my ignition switch. Looks like I know what I'll be replacing. The confusing thing is that even with it blown I can start and kill the engine. I'm guessing that the ignition has been hotwired somehow. I didn't mention that the cylinder comes out with the key. I'm guessing I'll find another mess once I have replaced the ignition... crapola... my guess is that they wired it into my headlight switch somehow because I can't kill the engine if my headlights are on. Why do people try to do these stupid hack jobs instead of fixing it right? It would have been so much easier for them and me.
  19. I have been down the path you are on now. If I was doing it again I would pull the fuse box apart clean and check all the wires going to it. There are multiple wires in the fuel pump circuit. I found shorts in 4 or more wires. mj1988electricalmanual_(1).pdf This is the 88 electrical manual. I would save it so it's easily accessible. I even printed it all out. You going to need a decent multimeter, time, and patience. The PO had installed this switch to $#!& of the fuel pump. I drive it that way while I fixed the rats nest of wiring.
  20. During engine CRANK (starter relay engaged) the ORN/BLK becomes HOT and bypasses the ballast resistor for straight 12vdc to the fuel pump.
  21. I’ve cleaned the connection. I mean it’s not the most cleanest setup creating electrical power loss I’m sure over 32 years but my truck starts and runs fine. Eliminating is an option. One step at a time. Don’t. There’s good basic info in there. Yes it’s not a Chiltons. A leak onto the fuse block was/is a common problem. It sounds like you’re doing a good job trying to locate electrical problems. I’m sure if you PMd Cruiser he’d point you in the right direction. He’s helped many members in the past. He patiently literally walked me through(held my hand!) in how to properly diagnose a headlight problem.
  22. Wow this is really helpful. Thank you. So it looks like I'm getting no power to my orange and black wire on my starter relay. I believe this is my fuel pump. When I fixed the fusable link it would send power to my fuel pump and cause it to prime. Then after starting it I was unable to kill the engine unless I pulled one of the wires to my fuel pump resister. What's confusing is that my fuel pump still primes and runs without the power to it... am I missing something?
  23. I dunno, $5 may be a bit of an exaggeration
  24. I'm sure the problem is in my fuse block. I had a mc leaking on it when I bought it. I do have a test light. A fused jumper is a great idea. Thank you. The hay es for it is junk. I buy a book for every vehicle I own but this has proven to be the least useful off all the books I have purchased. Come to think of it, I usually buy Chiltons but all I could find at my local parts stores were haynes...
  25. C101 gets eliminated not cleaned or replaced. Have you got a test light? If not, get one. Make a fused jumper. Jump from the pos bat post to each of the red wires. Test to see which circuit comes to life.........one circuit at a time. If any one of the red wires fries the fuse........you will know which circuit of the four has the problem. You will need to replace your headlight switch.......cheap, like $14 anywhere. Inspect the connector, if the switch is fried it's likely the connector is too. Ignition switch, inspect, clean, adjust.........or replace. Inspect wires at ignition switch. Throw the Haynes in the trash where it belongs. There is an excellent wiring diagram here, someone will post, download it. Chances are your problem lies in your fuse block and headlight switch and ignition switch. Also, light harness at rad support driver's side is generally problematic.
  26. Must be in good presentable and usable condition. Thank you.
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