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  1. Today
  2. Just checked this out and realized it's my old co worker.
  3. I think every clutch I have ever changed in my life was an LUK, they all work great. According to the maintenance records for my MJ, the dealership that owned it put a LUK clutch in it, I've worked it harder than most people would with zero issues. My vote is LUK.
  4. Yup, it sure is. Ready to move it to the next owner.
  5. The seller had two of the 87-90 books listed. I bought the second one.
  6. Anyone with a REM hookup. Do you see the same voltage (VLT) as listed below? This displays the current voltage of the Battery. Note: On 4.0L this may be the Fuel Pump/o2 Relay Circuit which will normally read 0v after 3 seconds when the engine is off. This will read correctly when the engine is running. – Engine Off (~12.4-12.8) A healthy battery will rest around 12.6 Volts – Engine Idle (~13.5-14.5) A healthy Alternator should supply 13.5-14.5 Volts
  7. Do you have a rem if show what is yours displaying
  8. Yesterday
  9. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2548093482203230/ Stumbled on this Wildernest on Facebook. 60"x90" so it would fit a longbed perfectly, but it's already mounted to a trailer with benches and propane. Looks like the canvas is decent condition as well.
  10. i second the luk clutchs.good clutchs if you use them for what there intended to be used for.thats the only clutch i use in my shop for the last 10 years and i havent a had single one die or fail prematurely.
  11. Just saw underneath your post numbers it has your location listed as Clayton! I'm in south Garner and only around 12 minutes from downtown Clayton.
  12. Soo its been a while... Decided to poke around this truck some and try to get a couple things done while ive been on vacation. Simple thing first - throttle cable Top one is a universal 36" cable from the Amazon. Bottom is the factory cable. Robbed the plastic retainer for the factory gas pedal and then re slung the cable through the sleeve. Next came the bracket for the intake manifold and too my surprise 2 of the 3 retaining threaded inserts were missing! This I'm sure is because this intake was originally from drive by wire truck. To resolve this i did what I think anyone else would do - canabalize the other intake I have to rob the inserts from and then heat and install them offcourse. Behold! Throttle cable inatalled! Next I set my eyes on the Dakota digital dash cluster which installs simply enough, thought its the wiring and the wire routing that makes this challenging. The overall interface design is very simplified, just finding a good spot for this little box was not. I wanted it clean mounted and accessible, I'll tell you now there isnt a great amount of real-estate for that inside the cab. Either footwell was off limits for my taste and mounting it to the inside of the firewall and bottom of the dash itself was not gonna fly. It fits well enough in the glove box soo I'm sold. The remainder of my time on this was spent painstakingly routing wires and then looming everything together making sure I avoid making wire nests that entangle the other harness(s). May formulate another itemized list of things needed to buy and also the things I still need to do and potentially make some consistent progress on this, we shall see
  13. Thanks for the suggestions! I'll start with pulling the valve cover and taking a look and maybe try the liqui moly stuff and see if that frees things up. I posted in the 89 sub-forum yesterday to get mine added to the registry! Interested to see where it was originally sold
  14. I believe its on Marketplace somewhere in MO for $37500.
  15. Fenders and tires clearance... These hog rear tires contact the fenders and while there is no suspension id rather have a little room to lessen the risk of a pinch point Soo i pulled the fenders off and mocked them up for a 1" lift This was tricky but turned out well enough. Next a bridged the gap between the footwells and fenders The front wheels is an entire endeavor on its own... I'll get to those on the weekend. Let's just say tire clearance and steering limitations are a big thing to overcome atm
  16. No fuel shutoff anywhere on this one. I had the fenders off for some work and removed the tank to inspect the underside fuel line - zero shutoff. I would have the shutoff closer to the tank but the pickup tube is no surprise under the tank and into the chassis soo there isnt convenient access until you see the exposed filter. Can confidently say this isnt gonna be for everyone. This does however bridge the interest gap i have in lawn tractors and offroad crawling. I also have new housing development neighbors to impress ;) muahahahaha
  17. I like my Luk clutch kit. It has been perfect for daily driving without being too stiff, but it still doesn't slip when off roading, towing, or when I dump the clutch like an idiot (which is rare, but fun).
  18. Will be building a new engine soon (4.0) for my 88 MJ. At the same time I'm going to replace the clutch. What are you guys using as a good upgrade clutch for an engine with very minor mods. LUK--Precision--MPAC--ECT. so many to pick from off rockauto. At this time, I'm just collecting some parts before i dig into the engine parts for pistons and cam. This will be a dd and not a stroker engine, just a good built 4.0. I had a clutch replaced in 2007. but don't know what brand it was. It served me well. Please let me know what you or your buddies believe is a good replacement. Thanks Paul
  19. Best of luck! Interested to see how it works out. If the price is right I may even buy one from you.
  20. Likely not. I do already have the tubing bender along with a welder for other projects. That's the big up front expense. I'm going to build one for myself and at least one or two others regardless so buying the die for the bender will happen. I don't expect to sell many. And I'll probably lose money. But I'm not doing it for profit anyway. If a few people really want them I can make them once I get set up later this summer or fall.
  21. Is this for sale? Thought I saw it posted on Facebook somewhere...
  22. That's why it's called a "Sport Bar". It was never meant to have any structural capacity. I've dug into this a bit and evaluated the cost of materials, time/labor, and shipping, and it would likely have to sell for $800-1000. Unfortunately, you're not gonna sell a lot of these and the initial investment in tooling, test runs, and materials is going to be pretty steep. As much as I hate to say it, it's really just not commercially viable.
  23. Worked yesterday 9-6 and didn't feel like messing with it after, so I knocked it out early this morning. I added 18mm to the ACOS on both sides, lengthened the track bar by about 1/8." Also lengthened the UCAs until my pinion to front shaft centerline were within 2-2.5* of each other, close enough. My caster is about 5* so we'll see how she acts on the road soon. Front ride height is now at 13.875." I was shooting for 14" or a hair under. Any higher than this and I'll be in cut-and-roll territory, might already be there. The rear is still a lot higher than I'd like. It should settle but in the meantime I'm going to throw some XJ shackles at it until it does. The lower I can get it in the rear, the more that will help the front effective caster.
  24. Welcome to the forum, great find! Quick and easy thing to check is pull the valve cover and see if anything feels loose while rolling it over by hand, i.e. pushrod slack or a loose rocker. The 4.0 wasn't really known for piston cracking until the later years (96-04) but possible. Pulling the cover will also give you some insight as to how well it was kept on oil changes. If it looks a bit sludgy, an engine flush cycle with Liqui-Moly might free up some deposits if there's anything in the lifters gumming them up, as well as helping to free up the rings. Click the link below to add your MJ's VIN number to the registry when you get a chance: 1989
  25. They actually do really well for things like crawling because they aren't designed for speed and are designed to be worked hard. Some of them even had factory locking rear axles.
  26. can't say I've ever thought about building a 2wd ATV out of a tractor, but it looks like fun!
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