Broken door-hinge welds: cheap n easy fix!

(Copied from my writeup over in NAXJA)

Like many XJs (especially the two-doors) my driver's door has sagged badly for years. Last week, the damn thing finally fell off in the driveway. That's how I know it's time to fix something.

For those that don't know, the problem stems from AMC's lame-brained idea of welding the hinge to the sheet metal unibody (bad enough) and then neglecting to weld the rear edge (even worse.)

As those welds start to crack, the hinge separates from the body, and the door sags. Eventually, the hinge can break all the way off, and you're done.

I'm a pretty mediocre welder. I can stick plate to plate pretty well, and sheet to sheet pretty badly. But sticking the ~3/8" hinge back onto the cracked, rusty sheet metal just wasn't going to happen for me.

I considered paying a friend to do it, but he was busy and I was broke. So I came up with this...

First, I cut out the ruined sheet metal where the hinge broke off. That left about a 2-1/2x3" opening.

Then I could see that there's enough space behind that panel for a new, stronger mounting plate.

So if I needed to mount the hinge like so (the yellow), I figured I'd need a plate shaped something like the blue outline. So I drilled (4) 3/8" mounting holes (red).

Then I cut my new mounting plate. I used about 8" of 2x1/4" flat stock. If you were careful and spaced your holes closer, you could get away with less, maybe 6", but I tend towards overkill.

I had to notch the bottom corner to clear a bulge in the unibody, then I drilled and tapped four holes to match the ones I drilled in the jeep body.

I ground the old welds off of the hinge, drilled a couple more 3/8" holes to bolt it to the plate, then (after test fitting everything) I drilled and tapped the plate to match.

Then I shot it all black.

It took a little wiggling to get it into position, but the plate bolted in nice and solid.

Then I bolted the hinge to it:

And finally rehung the door:

Overall, I'm thrilled with the results. I was hoping just to get the stupid door back on. But the new mount lifts it back up where it should have been all along, and it opens and closes better than it has in years.

I was careful to put the hinge right back where it was originally, and like I said, it does work well. If I was to do it again, though, I'd move the hinge forward (toward the front of the jeep) about a quarter inch. That way I could shim the door-side mount to exactly where I wanted it, and even adjust it over time if it started to sag again.

All told, it took me about an hour and a half (not counting the time to pull off the fender), and since I picked the plate out of the scrap at work, I was only out seven 3/8" bolts. (Even buying a foot of the flatstock would only be $4 at OnlineMetals.com.)

Hope it helps somebody!

Robert

:bowdown:

:waving: :waving: :waving:

:cheers:

Robert

If my trucks weren't in so much need of other stuff, I'd consider doing that mod preemptively on them. :D

Nice work and nice write up :thumbsup:

Thanks again Uncle Rob!

I'll take two sets shipped to tx! :brows:

I'll take two sets shipped to tx! :brows:

He could start making them up as kits and selling them with complete install instructions :idea:

do you have pics of were the welds break?

Like this?

Like this?

Yep, exactly like that. Those pics could've been taken of my rig.

I'll take two sets shipped to tx! :brows:

There ya go...

He could start making them up as kits and selling them with complete install instructions :idea:

We've discussed it:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=987295

But really, it's easy enough that about anybody could do it themselves.

Just a drill, a tap, and a scrap of 2x1/4" plate.

So get to it! :D

Robert

The weld generally starts cracking at the top of the weld closest to you as you open the door to look at the hinge. Next time you come over to the 90 at my parent's place I'll show you. :D

k cuz once i get mine in for paint, I'm gona wire wheel those suckers and prob plate em from behind and weld em up. i need to come get that window to!

k cuz once i get mine in for paint, I'm gona wire wheel those suckers and prob plate em from behind and weld em up. i need to come get that window to!

The problem is getting a plate back there since there is no sizable hole to access anything unless you "make" your own.

I need to do a door hinge fix on my truck, too, and have been mulling over some possible ideas on how to go about it. I think I'm going to cut the old plate out like you did and cut a piece of sheet metal out that is a bit narrower than the hole and bridge the gap with weld. Then, I'll have new sheet metal to weld the existing door brackets too as what I have right now looks just like those last pictures you have. I'm going to run into the same problem as you, though - my welder most likely won't do the 3/8" steel on the hinge, but I'll practice on some scrap to be sure of that.

Robert,

I am sure this is a stupid question, BUT, how did you get an 8" x 2" x 1/4" piece of stock behind the sheet metal?????

Please help us mechanically challanged.

Thanks,

JJ

You have to cut the square section out that the stock hinge is welded to. It will leave a 3"x2" (roughly) hole in the "A" piller. Just slide it in from the top until it clears and use your fingers and a magnet to pull it back up to where you need it. It helps to put a few marks on the plate where you think the center of it will be. That way you can line it up to mark the holes you need to tap after you drill the holes in the "A" piller.

I just did this Sunday to my truck. It is really easy to do once you get into it. Just reading it can be confusing.

You have to cut the square section out that the stock hinge is welded to. It will leave a 3"x2" (roughly) hole in the "A" piller. Just slide it in from the top until it clears and use your fingers and a magnet to pull it back up to where you need it. It helps to put a few marks on the plate where you think the center of it will be. That way you can line it up to mark the holes you need to tap after you drill the holes in the "A" piller...

Everything he just said, except I wasn't smart enough to use a magnet. :dunce:

That would make it a lot easier, because you will have the plate in and out about a hundred times, to make sure everything lines up. Okay, three or four times, whatever. :D It seems like a lot when you're stretching your stubby little fingers in there to try to maneuver the plate where it needs to be.

A simple magnet, or really two of them, would make it a snap.

Good thinking! :cheers:

Robert

I'm probably gona cut a slit inside and outside and run a horizontal brace tieing the inside and outside pillars together at the hinge. I'm not afraid to cut haha.

I'm probably gona cut a slit inside and outside and run a horizontal brace tieing the inside and outside pillars together at the hinge. I'm not afraid to cut haha.

That sounds like an awful lot of work, and I don't think I really understand the point.

Not to toot my own horn, but the simple 1/4" plate really did work well, super strong and super easy.

But hey, good luck with it, and take pictures to show us what you do!

Robert

I'm probably gona cut a slit inside and outside and run a horizontal brace tieing the inside and outside pillars together at the hinge. I'm not afraid to cut haha.

What ever man,, You know you want some suicide doors... :fool:

:thumbsup:

:wrench: and to think I was waiting to barrow my dads welder to fix the drivers door

Great write up. Works great. I needed to make 2 shims for between the mount and the hinge for my door to fit properly. Thanks!