derf Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 You don't need gorilla torque for manifold bolts. If you do, you have more problems to deal with. Now, the pinion nut on a Dana 80, that's gorilla torque... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 I just laid under the truck with a box end wrench to get all of my bottom ones. That said I have long skinny arms, so that likely helped. It would be way easier to just remove the airbox and come in from the side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 1 hour ago, pizzaman09 said: I just laid under the truck with a box end wrench to get all of my bottom ones. That said I have long skinny arms, so that likely helped. It would be way easier to just remove the airbox and come in from the side. Was you exhaust still there? I'm thinking that dropping that first would probably help, and you do have to at least disconnect it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 14 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Was you exhaust still there? I'm thinking that dropping that first would probably help, and you do have to at least disconnect it anyway. Yes, I did it with everything in place with the wheels on the ground. I may have used some sockets too, I don't particularly remember. I know I used a ratcheting box end wrench on some, and had to install a bolt in the back hole as the stud and nut had backed out completely and was missing. The front lower stud may be easiest to reach from above in front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 OK I got after it again today and finally found a combination of body position and tool, and got to the last two manifold bolts. All are snugged up now. The last two didn't really need much, maybe 1/4 turn. No change. Truck is still very sick. But at this point I have eventually found how to touch each of the bolts, but I'm not yet convinced I have the reach or expertise to get them all back in if I were to take them all out since 3 or 4 of them I got a wrench to, but not my hand. Actually put the back up on stands so the wheels were not touching the ground and looked underneath while it was running. Still cannot find a leak. I did check with a local shop that said, for $200, they would do a full diagnosis and tell me what is wrong. Given the amount of time I have spent and not found the problem, I am considering that plan. I'd feel a lot better about trying to pull off the manifolds if I actually know that is where the problem really is. Or it's at least possible they will find a problem that is easier to fix. At some point my Advanced Shade Tree Mechanic degree isn't enough! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Tuesday at 01:31 PM Author Share Posted Tuesday at 01:31 PM Dropped off at shop today for diagnosis by a "real mechanic" . They are going to let me know when to come back for show-n-tell, then I can decide if it's something I want to tackle.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Wednesday at 02:12 PM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 02:12 PM Can you install the EGR Delete Kit without removing the small pipe from the exhaust back to the intake, or is it a requirement to do both? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZLAJeep Posted Wednesday at 04:13 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 04:13 PM 1 hour ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Can you install the EGR Delete Kit without removing the small pipe from the exhaust back to the intake, or is it a requirement to do both? We took it all off. We didn't use a "kit" we just made our own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Wednesday at 06:10 PM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 06:10 PM Gotcha. But I'd still like to know if the delete is functional without removing the pipe between is OK or is it a requirement to do both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Wednesday at 06:53 PM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 06:53 PM (edited) So the reason I am asking about the EGR delete is that the shop I took it too for diagnosis said the problem is the EGR Vacuum SOLENOID. For my 4.0 MJ it looks like the part is 3300 2298. Given the circumstances that seemed to cause the failure, I can't say I am all the convinced, but, I'm willing to gamble a little. But I don't find this part number at the places around me (AutoZone, Napa, O'Reilly) or at Rock Auto or Summit. So I am assuming if I can't find one and this really is the problem, the other choice is to delete the EGR, but I am wanting to know if I can remove the EGR valve and block it off without having to also remove the intake and exhaust and remove that interconnect to try and fix my problem. One job is way less work than the other and if I CAN fix it with the smaller job, I'll take that option. Alternatively, is there an aftermarket that will replace 3300 2298? Edited Wednesday at 06:55 PM by AnotherOldJeepGuy details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZLAJeep Posted Wednesday at 07:09 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 07:09 PM Got ya. It's been a minute since we did this delete, but I guess you could leave the EGR tube. Found this diagram in an earlier post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted Wednesday at 07:28 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 07:28 PM 5 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Can you install the EGR Delete Kit without removing the small pipe from the exhaust back to the intake, or is it a requirement to do both? If you leave the EGR tube you will have an exhaust leak. You need to pull the pipe and install a plug in the exhaust manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Wednesday at 08:03 PM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 08:03 PM Understood. I found a NOS 3300 2298 on eBay and grabbed it. If it doesn't fix anything I'll have a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Thursday at 04:29 PM Author Share Posted Thursday at 04:29 PM The shop that did the diagnostic did repair these two hoses (Cabin Air Control and Heater Control). These were in bad shape but still connected. I really can't believe either of these caused the major problem, cause they have come loose before and I lost control of cabin airflow control, but nothing else happened and the engine ran fine when they were loose. They also replaced the two small hoses that connect at the back of the Air Box. These were also very bad, but again, they have been bad for a while and the engine was running great. The question I have is about what they also did after diagnosing the EGR Solenoid was bad. They didn't have a new Solenoid, so to bandaid this problem they "bypassed" the EGR by pulling the hose indicated below off the EGR Valve and capping off the hose. It does idle now albeit not as smooth as it used to, and I do have cab airflow control, so obviously I did get improved things. My question to the experts is, with the hose to the EGR Valve disconnected and capped off, what should I expect to happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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