87MJTIM Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 Does anyone know the name of or part number for the gravity activation switch in the light box? I have a light that is in decent shape and want to get it working. I can get continuity before the switch and after the switch. The switch is supposed to make contact when the box is tilted up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 Isnt that a mercury switch? I know Fords of the same era have the same kind of lamp assembly. Maybe GM ones have the same part as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted September 2 Author Share Posted September 2 Mercury switch. That’s the name. Are there aftermarket options rather than searching through JYs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted September 2 Author Share Posted September 2 Found this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 I have no idea on the aftermarket of those. I’d imagine it’s tough since mercury is toxic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 Why not use an alarm tilt sensor? Very simple normally open contact that closes when tilted past a preset point. They are used in car alarms to deter theft by tow truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 lots of more modern cars have lights that turn on when the hood is popped. how do they do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyweb3 Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 My 1980 Spirit AMX has a underhood light. I'll have to look at it and see if I can figure out what activates it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted September 3 Author Share Posted September 3 Update: I re-examined the light again. The mercury switch didn’t look like it leaked. I couldn’t think of how it could go bad. I took sandpaper to the contact points and used pliers to bend the tabs. With the box held vertical, I have continuity on + and - wires!! I then tested the cord wheel to the light socket. Again, I used light sandpaper and contact cleaner spray to the contact disks. I have continuity on both wires. I put the two halves together and tested continuity from the + feed to the light socket. With the unit held horizontal it was open circuit. With the unit held vertical it has continuity. The - has continuity full time. Mercury delivers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 Glad you got it working! Nice to know that is also serviceable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted Wednesday at 02:24 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 02:24 PM Mercury switches are usually very reliable. They are little more than a glass tube with a blob of mercury sliding around in it. There are a set of wires that poke through the one end of the tube that the mercury makes contact with. Just about every home thermostat built before the age of modern electronics has a mercury switch in it. Particularly the ubiquitous round Honeywell thermostats put in every house from the 60s through the 80s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted Wednesday at 03:33 PM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 03:33 PM I did some searching and research on mercury switches and thought it just wouldn't stop working. I decided to re-examine the unit and clean all the contact points. I finally got continuity from the + wire in to the light socket with the unit held vertical. I have not tested it to a battery yet. The light bulb needs replacing. Age and corrosion took its toll on the light . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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