NC Tom Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 It's been doing this wobble-jump-shimmy thing for a little while now. I had put it on my Get-Round-To-It list. However, I recently hit a small bump around 45 and after hitting the bump it kept on flopping around for several seconds afterwards. I thought the front end was going to eject itself! Tires are new, track bar is new, shocks were changed maybe 8 years ago. Before I got new tires I would experience a serious shimmy above 55 mph. That quit after tires were replaced. I was thinking the old tires were just shot and that was some of the issue. Clearly not. Any suggestions as to what I should look at first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 It could be just about anything in the front suspension. Your best bet will be to have someone in the truck wiggling the steering wheel back and forth while you are under the truck looking for play in parts. Everything in the steering should be moving together and have no play. Also inspect the control arm bushings for cracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GonzoTheGreat Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 How are the sway bar links looking? track bar bushing and joint ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 Okay folks. I'm going to be a lazy slob and ask you fine folks to look at these images and point out anything that looks suspect. I would say a bushing kit may be in order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Lots of this stuff needs a visual inspection while the steering wheel is being rocked back and forth or grab each suspension component and try to move it. There should be no play. These are just guesses, but it looks like you need tie rod ends, the body side of the track bar joint, and at least the steering box side of the drag link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Might I add some of those may just need some attention like a grease job and some new boots. If the joint is still good definitely make sure they are well lubricated and sealed against water and debris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 43 minutes ago, 89 MJ said: Lots of this stuff needs a visual inspection while the steering wheel is being rocked back and forth or grab each suspension component and try to move it. There should be no play. These are just guesses, but it looks like you need tie rod ends, the body side of the track bar joint, and at least the steering box side of the drag link. I know. I'm in a cycle of perpetual work at the moment. Keeping my fingers crossed that my MJ will keep running until I can dedicate some time to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratrapp Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 i can tell by the rust on the track bar joint thats bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 1 hour ago, NC Tom said: I know. I'm in a cycle of perpetual work at the moment. Keeping my fingers crossed that my MJ will keep running until I can dedicate some time to it. If you've got the time, you might be able to grease all of the joints. It might buy you a couple of weeks on the bad joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 On 3/19/2025 at 6:47 PM, ratrapp said: i can tell by the rust on the track bar joint thats bad. I was thinking that I had the track bar replaced, but now I'm thinking all they did was tighten it up. From your signature, it looks like you done a good amount of modification to your 88. Is there an "order of work" when it comes to front end redo/replace? In other words, a step 1, step 2 and so on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 On 3/19/2025 at 7:44 PM, 89 MJ said: If you've got the time, you might be able to grease all of the joints. It might buy you a couple of weeks on the bad joints. Okay. Any grease gun recommendations? Any of the Harbor Freight ones any good? Or any other budget brand that's worth it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 Oh yeah. @89 MJ and @ratrapp, is it generally safe to say the components don't need to be replaced, just serviced? Removed, cleaned, new bushings, tightened, etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 55 minutes ago, NC Tom said: Okay. Any grease gun recommendations? Any of the Harbor Freight ones any good? Or any other budget brand that's worth it? That I do not know, but I would guess a harbor freight one is good enough. 53 minutes ago, NC Tom said: Oh yeah. @89 MJ and @ratrapp, is it generally safe to say the components don't need to be replaced, just serviced? Removed, cleaned, new bushings, tightened, etc? It depends on how long they’ve been without grease. I’d say that you’re probably in need of all new joints. The sway bar bushings and track bar joint definitely need replacing though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratrapp Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 definitly new bushings.as others said a grease job can sometimes temporarily tighten up a bad joint.the harbor freight grease guns arent bad for the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Mark Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Based on the amount of fluid on your pitman arm you might want to make sure your steering box isn't bad. Check the fluid first see how much you lose over time. The symptom description sounds like the death wobbles, which narrows it down to all your front steering/track bar, stabilizer shock, mounts. how hard can it be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 I can see from the photos that the sway bar bushings where the bar attaches to the chassis need replacing. the chassis end of the track bar is junk as well. All the other steering linkage stuff cannot be ascertained without doing the “rock the steering wheel back and forth” test while holding/feeling each joint. Contol arm bushings need a close inspection with a flashlight to look for cracks or permanent deformation. Keep in mind that, unless those arms were replaced or rebushed some time in the past, you are rolling around on 30+ year old rubber suspension joints, and that almost guarantees that the bushings are just flat worn out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 On 3/24/2025 at 2:03 PM, Big_Mark said: Based on the amount of fluid on your pitman arm you might want to make sure your steering box isn't bad. Check the fluid first see how much you lose over time. The symptom description sounds like the death wobbles, which narrows it down to all your front steering/track bar, stabilizer shock, mounts. how hard can it be? Thanks ,buddy. Yeah, my steering box is leaks. I have a feeling it's going to be a major overhaul of the front end. Lucky me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 On 3/24/2025 at 7:44 PM, AZJeff said: I can see from the photos that the sway bar bushings where the bar attaches to the chassis need replacing. the chassis end of the track bar is junk as well. All the other steering linkage stuff cannot be ascertained without doing the “rock the steering wheel back and forth” test while holding/feeling each joint. Contol arm bushings need a close inspection with a flashlight to look for cracks or permanent deformation. Keep in mind that, unless those arms were replaced or rebushed some time in the past, you are rolling around on 30+ year old rubber suspension joints, and that almost guarantees that the bushings are just flat worn out. Appreciate to detailed reply. I've never done the “rock the steering wheel back and forth” test. Looks like I'll be getting my hands really dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 On 3/24/2025 at 10:40 AM, 89 MJ said: That I do not know, but I would guess a harbor freight one is good enough. It depends on how long they’ve been without grease. I’d say that you’re probably in need of all new joints. The sway bar bushings and track bar joint definitely need replacing though. I've had it 7 years and have not greased it. Not bragging. Just completely forgot vehicles this age still need that service. I have a borrowed a grease gun from a friend. Any tips on procedure are appreciated. Also, how many tubes will I need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 30 minutes ago, NC Tom said: I've had it 7 years and have not greased it. Not bragging. Just completely forgot vehicles this age still need that service. I have a borrowed a grease gun from a friend. Any tips on procedure are appreciated. Also, how many tubes will I need? 1 tube will probably get it done. Maybe get 2 just in case they’re all really dry. You know you’ve added enough when it starts coming out past the boots. Make sure you grease your driveshaft u joints too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Mark Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 9 minutes ago, 89 MJ said: 1 tube will probably get it done. Maybe get 2 just in case they’re all really dry. You know you’ve added enough when it starts coming out past the boots. Make sure you grease your driveshaft u joints too. ^^ This Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted June 9 Author Share Posted June 9 Back to this headache. I guess I need to replace the whole shebang. I'd like to find something like this for my 88, but there doesn't seem to be one. https://www.amazon.com/Detroit-Axle-Adjustment-1991-2001-1991-1992/dp/B07B6RGWC9?ref_=nav_ya_signin I am assuming a kit for a 91 won't work. I have also read that some of the metal parts may not need to be replaced, just bushings. Any thoughts on where I should start? BTW, the symptoms haven't worsened. I am looking into what @AZJeff posted earlier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 far as I know, all that stuff will work I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 12 hours ago, Pete M said: far as I know, all that stuff will work I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong That parts “kit” on Amazon should work, but the quality of those replacement parts might not be “Tier One” OP would be better served by going to Rock Auto and ordering individual pieces from a reputable brand name. It might be more expensive, but the quality (if chosen from a brand name) will be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Htchevyii Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 Later models have a larger drag link. 20mm vs 22mm starting at or about '94. The whole assembly still interchanges. I don't know what could be different on a '91? As big of a PITA as ball joints are to change, I would be hesitant to buy an economy version. Some of not all of the stamped stock replacement control arms are made of thinner metal and tends the bend or break with heavy off road use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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