Drum brakes

[Tonedef131]

After owning my jeep for three years with no parking brake, I finally decided to fix it this weekend. The previous owner removed the two rear cables that go to each drum. But since I have never done the drums before, and being the kind of guy that just removes cables when something stops working, I am assuming that the PO didn't ever do them either. My stopping power has also gone to hell, so the whole drums are getting an overhaul this saturday.

 

Now I have never owned a vehicle that had drum brakes before, so I have no idea what I am getting myself into. My first question is what size drums does it have? Napa online says that you could have a 10x2.5 or 10x1.75. I have a Dana 35 so do I have the 1.75"? Second question is what all will I need to get these drums stoppin good again? I know shoes and probobly springs and perhaps getting the drum machined, anything else? Napa has a hardware kit that seems to supply about everything in the drum and it is $9, what do you guys think?

[LJRockstar]

I'm not sure on what size Drum you have... But If you have em apart just replace EVERYTHING. Do shoes and the hardware kit, and get the Drums cut at a minimum and take a good look at the wheel cylinders, You are so for in already wouldn't want to take all that apart again cause the wheel cylinder started leaking a week later! And if you break the rusty steel brake line getting the wheel cylinders off they need to be replaced anyway!

[carnuck]

You might want to think about the disc brake upgrade. :cheers:

[Wildman]

The D35 will have 10 x 1.75 brake drums ( 10 x 2.5 are for D44 )

 

The reason your rear brakes are not working, could be from the "self-adjuster" not adjusting. And the shoes are not even near the drums to help with stopping power.

 

Most places will not even machine drums any more, and the cost of new drums (about $26) are close to the cost to get them machined.

 

Do get and install a complete hardware kit, with new springs and hold downs.

 

But also check, clean and lube the self adjuster screws, and make sure there installed correctly. And the cable is working with the lever.

 

Installing new E-brake cables is easy, it's getting the old one out that's the problem. But make sure your front cable is working, and not all corroded on the driver side floor. Other wise, your new rear cables will not work.

 

I 2nd the replacement of the wheel cylinders, "while you got it apart" type thing, but as noted, you might be into replacing brake lines. But it the time to do every thing at once, and your done with it.

 

The best thing it to take the rear wheels off, pull the drums and see what you got first, then head to the parts store, then you'll know just what you'll need to get-er-done.

[TNT]

You can also get larger wheel cylinders for more stopping power.

[Tonedef131]

The D35 will have 10 x 1.75 brake drums ( 10 x 2.5 are for D44 )

 

The reason your rear brakes are not working, could be from the "self-adjuster" not adjusting. And the shoes are not even near the drums to help with stopping power.

 

Most places will not even machine drums any more, and the cost of new drums (about $26) are close to the cost to get them machined.

Thanks, I planned on getting the self adjuster repair kit anyway because it is only $12. I am also definatly replacing all the hardware and shoes. As for the machining my local shop only charges $12 per drum but new ones at Napa are $45 each for the cheapest ones.

 

Any tips for getting the 20 year old drums off? I expect that to be the hardest part of the whole job. I am going to start hitting them today with PB so hopefully they will be loosened a bit by saturday.

[comancheman]

there are two different drum and pad options found on the d35. the axle out of my 1990 had shorter pads that were 2.5 inches wide. the axle in my 89 had skinier taller pads. u might be better off bringing and old shoe and drum to the parts store just to be safe.

[Pete M]

Yes, there were 2 different size drums for the Dana 35. For some reason I always thought that MJs got the bigger drums (and the smaller size was limited to certain XJs and YJs) but my '90 MJ came with the tiny drums on it. :( Didn't matter though, as that axle was the first thing to get ripped out in the build. :D

 

Also, a key point for the first-timer is to work on only one side at a time. That way if you get confused about how it goes back together, you can reference the other side (which is a mirror image). :D

[Eagle]

there are two different drum and pad options found on the d35. the axle out of my 1990 had shorter pads that were 2.5 inches wide. the axle in my 89 had skinier taller pads. u might be better off bringing and old shoe and drum to the parts store just to be safe.

AMC used 10" drums. Chrysler used 9" drums. '89 was the last year for the 10" and 90 was the first year for the 9".

 

The 10x1.75 brakes are significantly better than the Mopar 9" brakes, and easier to work on as well. And, of course, the 10" x 2.5" D44 brakes are the best of all.

[Wildman]

Thanks, I planned on getting the self adjuster repair kit anyway because it is only $12. I am also definatly replacing all the hardware and shoes. As for the machining my local shop only charges $12 per drum but new ones at Napa are $45 each for the cheapest ones.

 

Any tips for getting the 20 year old drums off? I expect that to be the hardest part of the whole job. I am going to start hitting them today with PB so hopefully they will be loosened a bit by saturday.

 

Yea, if you can get drums turned for $12, that's the way to go, IF there turnable???

 

I checked here - www.Rockauto.com

 

And their Wagner & Raybestos are around $26 for each drum.

 

{That's why I don't shop at Napa}

 

Yes, replacing all the guts inside the drums is the best way to go, even the self-adjusters, the cable and lever. Then your done for some time ;)

 

The best way I found to get a drum off, is to heat the drum, around the hub, even a propane torch will do the job, after a few minutes of heat, the drum will "pop" right off :brows:

 

And take Pete's advice, if it's your first time, keep one side intact for reference.

 

And have fun :D

[carnuck]

AMC Eagle rear wheel cyls are larger and bolted in place on my '87.

[TNT]

AMC Eagle rear wheel cyls are larger and bolted in place on my '87.

 

There are a bunch of choices in size. 13/16", 7/8", 15/16", 1", 1 1/16", 1 1/8" and maybe more I forget.

 

Some would overpower the front brakes for sure.

[Tonedef131]

You guys were right about the wheel cylinders, they aren't leaking but they are barely pushing the shoes out. The shoes and everything else look to be in pretty good shape, probably because they have barely been used since the wheel cylinders aren't working. The drums aren't too worn, but I am going to have them machined anyway since a buddy of mine works at Napa and said he would do it for free if I brought them in when he was working.

 

Since I am replacing them anyway, I like the idea of getting bigger ones in there. What size do you recommend? Do the eagle ones feel pretty good carnuck?