Tonedef131

Not sure if that will work with an 87 renix, let me do some research and i'll let you know.

My clutch master cylinder was leaking and brake fluid made it's way into my fuse box. I replaced the master cylinder, but I keep blowing fuses and it's a real mess. If anyone is parting out a compatible fuse box, I'd be glad to take it off your hands. canofpears@gmail.com

Hmm, mine is a 4WD with the BA-10, not sure if that will work or not, but I'll look into it.

My clutch leaked onto my fuse box and now it's a big mess. I cleaned it up best I could a while back and it it kept working for a little while but was blowing fuses here and there and I knew it was only a matter of time. I went to drive it the other day and my dash lights wouldn't come on and once I started checking around I didn't have turn signals or brake lights either. Changing the fuses isn't doing the trick anymore so I think it's time for a new box. It's a '87 base model, not sure what all goes into account of them matching up.

The Comanche is a mysterious creature, it turns on men and women alike...but often they don't realize it is because of the truck. First of all it is the best looking truck ever made...period. People will sometimes laugh when I go into great detail about how sexually appealing my 20 year old rusty as hell pickup is, but it grows on them. Then whenever we see other MJs they also get excited and start to appreciate what a pickup truck really should look like. I now know quite a few people who are now casually looking for a Comanche and a quite jealous of my favorite possession. Second they are pretty uncommon. Now normally this has its downsides in not being able to find parts very easily. However, with the MJ is practically the same thing as the XJ mechanically and those things are everywhere, so no issue finding parts. Third they feature the AMC 4.0 which forged out of Satan's flesh. Look around the Internet or go talk to Jeep owners about the kind of abuse this cast iron lump can take. I have seen these motors run upside down, with no coolant, with no oil, and even getting hydro locked and still being driven home. They are also super easy/cheap to work on. Fourth they don't make anything that even compares anymore. Name on truck that weighs 3k lbs, has an in line six, can pull 5k lbs, has a payload of 1.5k lbs and has solid front and rear axles. The MJ could do nearly everything a full size truck could when it came out and it can still keep up with a lot of trucks being made today. Lastly, they are incredibly Heavy Metal. If the Comanche listened to music, it would be thrash/death metal all day long. When people get in my truck and see that I have ripped out the flooring/roofing and sprayed it all with bed liner they start to understand how metal this truck is. Then when I yank the transfer case into 4WL and go shooting up and unpaved inclined surface they immediately proclaim that it's as hardcore as a rusty battle axe. I will never sell my truck because it is worth 30x more to me than I could ever sell it for. I know if I were to ever part with it I would hate myself forever. Spending time with it brings me great joy, even tasks that some people might find irritating and tedious I quite enjoy. Adding oil...fantastic. Greasing all the joints...couldn't be better. Washing it...well this one actually kind of sucks because I lose more paint every time. It is an ongoing project but it's one that I really like dumping time into. If that was too long and you didn't read it, in short it looks how pickups should look, it's cheap to buy/maintain, and it is great at hauling on and off road. I can't imagine owning any other truck for my purposes.

I did the POR-15 and then bedliner over that on my floor. I didn't notice it being much louder but it does get a bit warmer around the transmission tunnel. I removed my headliner and that did make it quite a bit noisier, but then I used the rubberized underbody coating with sound deadener on the ceiling and I think it is quieter than it was with the headliner in.

Yup. In base models. Well thats what I have, so my money says there never was one in it.

I am about to start researching this as well. While my truck has never overheated on me, it bounces between 210 and 225 consistantly. It never seems to stay high, but every now and then it shoots up there and then cools back down. I might just start with a nice radiator flush.

I have the Gabriel Pro Guard ones on the rear. They were like $20 and I am happy enough with them that I got the same ones for the front, even though I haven't gotten around to putting them on yet.

I don't think my truck had any stereo when it was new. I am not sure but the doors don't have speakers in them or anywhere for speakers to go. Behind the seat there was nothing but the grate and there was also grates below the dash by your knees. I have since added small speakers up front and some bigger ones in the rear. They don't sound great but at least I can listen to music. But my truck wasn't even wired for it, I had to run wires from the CD player to all 4 speakers. Were stereos/speakers completely optional in the trucks?

I agree that now is the time to spend the money on the nice ones. After doing this job you will not regret the few extra bucks you dropped, because you will never want to do it again. I did mine this past winter and did the wheel bearings and front axle U-joints which were terrible, so you might check those while you are in there. My father in law who is a mechanic said that if you have trouble getting the new ones in you can shave just a hair off of them on the bench grinder. I have never had to do it, but I can't imagine with the amount of weight on them that they would ever come out, I mean they are still going to be incredibly tight in there.

I just strap mine in off to the side of the bed, behind the cab but in front of the wheel well. This way I don't really have to sacrifice bed space.

I called the Jeep dealership to cash in on my O2 sensor recall and they set up the appointment and everything was great. Then they call me back today and tell me they need to order the part. No big deal, we just had to reschedule. Then they called me again and told me the part is no longer made by Chrysler. So I asked them where to go from here and they didn't know what to say. Is this true? I know some of you have had this recall done, did they feed you a line like this or is the part truely discontinued?

Thanks Wildman! I am still going to see if I can modify the XJ pump since I already have it and I am kinda pissed that I spent $40 on it before I realized it wasn't the same. This will be as much of an experiment as anything. So if (when?) I fail at that I will use your advice to repair my MJ one.

Well I don't have the money to buying a new one since I just got this one and $40 it cost me. So I am going to pull it out and see if I can't make the Xj one work. Sounds like I would have to modify it even if I did buy a new one, so if I break this one it isn't as big of a deal. I'll report back for the record.

What up no-headliner buddy I ripped mine out yesterday since it was nasty and I was sick of looking at it. I am not going to put another one in because they are expensive. It is kind of loud though, so I think I will get some of the rubberized underbody coating that has sound deadener in it. That stuff is like $6 a can and makes my truck even more heavy metal.

Well the pump I have is a stock one out of a Jeep Cherokee so it might be slightly different than the Airtex. As long as it seats in there right I should be fine. If I remember right I think the strainer can actually be rotated. I think the Comanche ones are weaker because of the bend in the hardline that goes into the tank, so hopefully this one will last longer.

I have an 87 MJ and the fuel pump is leaking from the metal elbows that come out of it. I have a fuel pump from an 89 XJ that runs when I plug it into my trucks harness and looks the same as the MJs except the leads coming out of it are straight rather than at a 90 degree bend. Are these otherwise the same pump? Airtex has the same part number listed for the two of them but I want to be sure before I go sticking it in there.

Not as long as the donor vehicle had the same motor as yours. There has been dozens of threads about this, if you do a search you can find everything about it.

jtdesigns is right about how easy it is. The hardest part is finding the cluster, but if you post in the classified forum here you should be able to get ahold of one. A lot of guys around here will grab them when they spot them at a junk yard and usually sell them at pretty reasonable prices. I got mine off of here for I believe $40 shipped. The swap itself is like a half hour job. I don't think the year 1990 would work, I believe it has to be 87-89, and out of a 4.0 if that is what you have. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

I haven't put one on my bed but I did my floors with the rattlecan stuff from autozone and for the price I am very happy with it.

For mine I basically made a big I out of 2x4s so it was a long piece of wood that locked between the front of the bed and the wheel wells. Then I mounted two Thule quick release mounts on it. It works really really well and it was only the cost of the mounts. Another perk is that it is really easy to remove, just lift it out during the off season or if I need the full length of my bed.

I just did my floors last week. I caught them before they got too bad and cut out the areas where it had gone all the way through. Then I ground down all of the rust and coated the entire floor in POR-15. At that point I formed some tin paneling into the shape of the floor and pop riveted it into place with a layer of caulk underneath to seal. It looked so good I decided not to put the rubber back in. I coated everything in rattlecan bedliner and now my truck is heavy metal as hell I can grab some pictures if you like, but I forgot to get some during the process. $30 POR + $15 sheet metal + $15 bed liner = $60 total cost.

I got all of mine from Napa in the last couple of months. The front one had to be ordered and took a couple of days, the rears they had same day.

I had the same question a while back, the easiest way to figure the size is to slip those sizes of an open end wrench over the bar to see which one it is. It was suggested to me in this thread. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... highlight=