comancheman

tcase is deffinetly not in 4wd. when i removed the front shaft i did find that the cv assembly was seized. i couldnt move it at all by hand. I'm going to check all fluids and try the ratchet strap then go for a test drive.

ok so I'm in route to my gf's house last night, one way is about 150 miles. on the highway doing 65-70 and i hear this rattling/grinding/sounds like marbles being tossed around in something noise. possibly timing chain or tcase chain. but noise stops when truck stops doesnt increase with rpm but does increase with vehicle speed. eliminating timing chain. now I'm leaning to tcase chain. but. . .i thought i had maybe heard the noise a few days prior so i removed the front dshaft hoping in theory that the chain wouldnt spin. so even with the shaft out I'm getting the chain slop noise I'm worried that in the next 150mi home ill wear right through the tcase. so i really need this chain to not spin. I'm considering a ratchet strap around the front output hooked to the frame. Bad idea? any other thoughts? 89 4.0 AW4 NP231

yeah the one to the door in the airbox is pretty much useless. as for the egr solenoid i would try to make it functional. not sure exactly what you could/should tap into to do this though

ill snap a couple pics when i get a second and see about shipping costs. pics probably won't be up until tomorrow. theres no rips or severly worn spots. i did cut around where the seat belt bolts go through the carpet so i could remove it without removing the seatbelts from the pillar. you can't tell with the all the trim pieces installed though.

what color are you looking for and where are you located. i just pulled out my gray one which i was going to keep but if someone needs it id let it go

if the tranny is shifting fine in 4wd id vote tcase

nope go for it. i run a cat but I'm willing to bet half the people on this forum don't.

ok you never woulda guessed. i pulled of the trim removed the speaker from the door no pinches plenty of slack in the cable so I'm like :huh???: i don't get it. then i started thinking about when i installed my head unit. the wire the PO used for constant power was the same color as the interior light wires. . . so everytime i close my door the light switch in the door jam is grounded cutting constant power with the door closed (atleast this is what i figured without totally understanding the internals of a HU) Temp solution: i cut the little knob off the light switch with a dremel. my lights didnt work anyway. permanent solution: find a better constant power source.

door open works fine door closed cuts out hmmmm I'm on to something

so today i was driving along turned on my tunes and as soon as i go above 15 out of 35 for the volume it cuts out. my sub still kind of "thumps" and the speakers play the lows but no highs basically all I'm getting is base above 15. it an alpine HU. I'm clueless any help? o yeah its an alpine hu going to a pioneer 4 channel amp and a pioneer mono to my sub.

by all means if bacon grease is working for you i wouldnt stop. it may clog your arteries over time though. i prefer castrol HM 10w-30. I see my opinion does not agree with the opinions of the experts at castrol and mobil. maybe next time ill give warm oil a try.

for the record bacon grease is a little different than motor oil. I truly believe that neither method is going to make a significant difference in the longevity of our beast engines. i was just seeing what other people did and thought others should do.

i always prefill although difficult and messy (who knows how much actually stays in the filter) with the inverted filter and use a mobil 1 filter. i don't get any taps on initial start up so it must do something.

I'm not trying to be argumentative at all, I'm just trying to make it make sense in my thick head. ive always wondered about this and yes he gave me an explanation but it still doesnt seem logical to me. its really not a huge deal. i was just wondering.

IIRC theres a small pin in the adapter housing that keeps everything lined up. this broke on my first comanche but i never ran it after it broke. maybe something like this happened to you and a passage is blocked? I'm not really sure what would happen if the housing wasnt lined up properly.

i see what your saying but i still disagree. yes when the oil is warm it holds the particulate matter in suspension that would normally settle on the head or in any other recess but even still there is going to be the same amount of oil that settles in the head when the car is shut off after "warming" as there was when you shut it off the day before so the same amount of particulate matter remains in the engine.

can anyone explain why you are supposed to warm up your car before you change oil? it never made any sense to me. i understand the oil flows better but i usually park facing up an incline overnight so as much old oil as possible is in the back of the pan and not in the head and cylinders. i know that neither will make any significant difference but I'm anal about my oil changes and it seems warming up the oil is what every manual i have ever read says.

when i first bought my truck i did just a drain and fill on the AW4 then drove it every day for a week and did anoth drain and fill. repeated until my fluid looked red again, before it looked more like engine oil after 8k miles. apparently PO wasnt much on maintenance. once the fluid looked decent i pulled the pan and replaced the gasket and filter so everything was relatively fresh. since then i do a drain and fill usually everyother oil change its usually around 4qts cheap money for the peace of mind. I always run Valvoline Maxlife DexronIII/Mercon and occasionally substitute in a bottle of lucas transmission fix with good results. around 190-200k and shifts like a dream.

one of them is for the vacuum the little door thing in the front of the stock airbox that opens and closes drawing warm air from the exh manifold. no big deal most don't work anyway. and I'm thinkin maybe the other is for the egr solenoid. I'm really not sure on the last one so don't quote me.

id leave it how it is. it looks like it was manufactured that way. its been awhile since i had mine out but I'm fairly certain thats the return line so it shouldnt make a difference anyway

wana trade? that thing is MINT compared to mine and others i have seen. where did the picture go?

both my mjs had the aux tranny cooler in front of the rad, neither of them had the tow package

i just installed their HD tie rod. it looks pretty good and is HD but i havent driven it yet so no on road experience.

no need to remove the pin to remove the c-clip in the front

oil pressure sensor is to the left of the oil filter with a single wire connection temp sensor is on the right rear of the head near the fire wall also a single wire connection