comancheman

does anyone know where i can get the transducer seperate from the egr? i don't have $125 to spend and the valve itself is fine

i just googled it and found alot of different answers. some say u can't some say u can. id try it, just don't burn ur eyes out

my hands fit right in their no problem. sorry u guys all have fat hands

they have them both for batteries and anti freeze. ive never changed the acid in a battery but i don't see why u couldnt. i just don't know where u could get the acid without getting the whole battery. all the powersport batteries at walmart come with a small jug of acid. i belive its a 50/50 mix but I'm not positive.

I'm pleased now. i put in the new clutch, flushed the sytem and bled the air out. now she runs at 210 almost all the time and goes up to 220 while I'm climbin hills. it still heats up to almost redline before the thermostat opens but its better than it was.

well my truck kept getting hot especially up hills. it used to always run at 210 but not lately. i replaced the fan clutch because it was all that was left. all within the past year ive replaced the radiator, waterpump, thermostat, all hoses, flushed everything twice and it got a new temp sender when i went to the full cluster. i have the auxillary fan running through a relay to a switch on the dash

no it wasnt squealing. it was a few months ago and i replaced the idler. all better now. i put in the new fan clutch today and now it still climbs way up to just before the redline then drops to 210* then evens out around 220*. any ideas on why it gets so hot before it drops down. my first guess would be the thermostat but about 6 months ago i put in a new stant 195* and i bought the good one. I'm thinkin about goin to a 180* thermostat but would really like it to run properly on OE equivalent parts.

is it a full size waggy or the cherokee wagoneer? if its the cherokee wagoneer all the drivetrain parts are the same as the xj/mj. engine tranny tcase and frnt axle will bolt right up. rear end will need new spring perches. but i would sell the d44 to me instead. u don't want that under ur comanche. :brows:

thanks guys ill throw it on there tomorrow and see what happens

i picked up a new fan clutch at Advanced today but I'm not sure if its the right one. all the holes line up right but the old clutch feels tighter than the new one. is this normal? the truck was cold when i removed it the truck has been running a little warm and this is the only part of the cooling system that isnt new so i figured id give it a shot

i found the valve at autozone for 30 bucks. ill probably replace all the heater hoses while I'm at it. thanks for your help

Today i took my mom for a drive in the comanche to go get a pool at Sams Club. As we left the driveway she says "are u sure this things gona make it to concord?" of course ma i just drove it to massachusetts and back. well we pull into the gas station to fill up and i hear fluid going everywhere. the plastic nipple on the heater valve broke off and atleast a gallon of anti freeze was in the parking lot. i called my dad and he showed up with a hacksaw an hour and a half later and i cut off the valve and then connected the metal line to the hose. my question is are these hoses still available? its an 89 with the closed system and the valve is part of the hose. do i have to go thru a dealership?

opinions on what parts store carries the best calipers. i already redid my rears now onto the fronts then new booster/master and eliminating the proportioning valve.

no matter what you do i don't think u are really going to notice a difference. mine always took a long time to start until i put in new injectors which now sometimes it fires right up but 95% of the time its still a long crank. i suppose if your fuel pump isnt priming it would cause an abnormally long crank time. when u turn it to run do u hear it priming?

x2 on an 89

so after owning and driving my comanche for 2 years i decided to give the headlight knob a twist. wouldnt u know it the dash lights dim! i had no clue i had this option. i also noticed when i go all the way to the left it clicks. would i be correct in assuming this is for my never ever working interior lights?

i also only paid 40 bucks for my flowmaster 40

i thought maybe but i was told somewhere that the freon also lubricates the compressor so it won't turn if theirs no freon so it doesnt burn up

ok my turn to jump in. 89 4.0 has ac but the compressor doesnt turn on. its still set up for R12. i don't think its been used in a long time but whats the first step? would the compressor turn on if theres no freon in the system? or should i start with checkin power to the compressor? probably both

i don't think the gauge is off and the temp sender is new also. i really think the fan is shot. i can easily spin it while either hot or cold. its a different car but the fan on my dads expedition doesnt turn nearly this easy.

1989 4.0 still closed cooling system. all within the past year i have replaced thermostat, water pump, all hoses and the radiator. ive bled the system atleast 10 times. it has always warmed up to around 240* then backed down to 210* and stayed there. lately it keeps going back and forth between 210*and 240* usually staying around 220*-230* biggest temp increase is going up hills. i know 220* isnt bad but it wasnt always like this. next thing i was going to replace is the clutch fan. i kno there was a write up recently about the fan but i couldnt find it. am i correct in that it should be hard to spin when hot and easier to spin when cold? if anyone has a different idea I'm listening. thanks for your help, Tim

i also notice a difference when i run premium gas it deffenitley runs smoother. also jeepco my first mj did the same thing to me after it sat for a few years and it turned out to be the cps.

same issue here. left blinker would blink but so would all the dashlights even the light by the tcase shift lever would flash. spent days trying to find the problem. bent out the ground tab in the blinker socket a little bit and it got so that the dash lights stopped flashing but my blinker stayed a solid light when it was on. replaced the socket and everything went back to normal. weirdest thing i ever saw.

"I hate it when my shwarts gets twisted"

this deffinetly makes sense but why are the manufacturers still recommending 87 octane in these motors?