comancheman

not 100% sure, i know the rms on the 800w mono amp for the sub was 500 or 550 but i don't remember what the 4 channel had. ill check when i get back from school either tonight or tomorrow.

I'm 100% sure that part #8 will fit just fine but you will also have to get #6 and #7. the TRE tapers have to be identical because the 91 and up tre fit tight in my 89 pitman and knuckles. the only thing i cannot verify is that the taper where part #5 attaches to part #8 is the same between the years but i highly doubt that they would change just one taper.

ok so I'm trying to get my stereo to sound a little less crappy. i have 2 polk audio 5-1/4's for the doors that i got for free. 2 pioneer premier 6x9's in boxes behind my seat and I'm going to delete the 4x6's in the A-pillars. these will be ran off a pioneer 400watt 4 channel amp. then i have a small sony xplod 10" 1000watt sub which will be ran off an 800watt pioneer mono amp. the speakers and 4channel amp are already wired and sound ok. i got the sub for cheap and already had the amp so now i want to install it. the 4 channel already has the outputs so i can run RCA's to the mono amp for the sub but my main question is will it be ok to split the remote wire from my head unit to the two amps? also will i need a capacitor? I'm not sure what you can run before you really need one.

i just replaced all the TRE's on my 89 with 91 and up parts. it is my understanding that the threads at the adjusting sleeve are different. advance auto's site specifies a 22mm thread for the 91 and up parts. nothing is specified for the older models. also the p/n is changed for the 91 and up adjusting sleeve. everything fit tight on my 89.

actually i would much rather not have gotten this option however it seems that any mj that was purchased in the northeast develops this option over time. eventually it takes over the whole truck. this is what they call the eliminator option because it "eliminates" comanches :doh:

pulled up the carpet this weekend and found well, very little. i could see my driveway and a frame rail full of rusty chips. i knew it was bad but not this bad. so i cut out all the rust and have two big holes in the driverside, one big hole in the passenger side, and the top of the driverside frame rail is more or less nonexistant. plans now include wire wheel the crap out of everything top and bottom, replace floors either riveted or welded, then the whole por15 process to both top and bottom then I'm not sure. what i would like to do then is do another coat of regular paint on top of the por15 then rubberized undercoat the bottom and herculiner the top but ive read every post on here and a few say not to herculine. i don't think i will put the carpet back in. its a dd but more geared to trail use and i don't think ill really miss the carpet however i don't want just a bare painted floor. looking for suggestions, options, experiences. how about undercoating the top and bottom? whats better?

ok time to redo my previous hack job of a floor repair. the question is will a single quart of por 15 rust preventative paint be enough to give good coverage to the top and bottom of my floor? i have limited knowledge of the product and want to make sure i have enough. i also figure a quart fo "marine clean" and "metal ready" will be enough?

ok replacing my tierod, tierod ends, draglink, and adjusting sleeve tomorrow. i have an aftermarket hd tierod ill be installing, apparently the threads on the TRE's changed in some year so i have to buy tierod ends from a newer cherokee. i just want to make sure that the taper wasnt changed and the newer era TRE's will sit tight in my 89 knuckles. can anyone confirm?

ok ok when your wrong your wrong and I'm wrong it is the sealer :oops:

i replaced the w/p in my 89 4.0 last year with a new napa pump. i pulled it out of the box and i didnt think the bearing felt right so i asked for another i could feel just for reference and sure enough it was defective. i put it in the other napa pump and havent had a problem yet. sometimes you get a new bad part

I'm 90% sure that there are 2 o-rings in there. ill take a closer look this weekend when I'm home from school and post some pics for you non believers

ok i just bought an hd tie rod from ironrock and its pretty heavy duty. now I'm looking for a hd draglink. the axle side tre bit the dust but the problem I'm facing is no one seems to offer just a heavy duty draglink. they all require you to buy the whole tie-rod/draglink kit. I'm in need of a beefy draglink that will accept the oem tie rod ends. any ideas?

most effective way for me to remove the unit bearing from the knuckle was to turn out the 3 13mm 12pt bolts a few turns put a socket on them and go to town with a monster hammer. i wasted a socket but the bearing wasnt moving any other way.

see my really sweet MS paint? I'm not talking about the seals. ive read that post like 100 times. the orange rings right in front of the seal are what I'm looking for. mine are black and all they seem to be are rubber o-rings.

they exist! i really have no idea what purpose they serve. i don't think they seal the tubes where they are pressed into the housing. when i pulled the carrier to change out the axle seals i noticed the o-rings. one was cracked and both of them were "squished". when i pulled it out it just fell apart so i need some new ones i guess. just don't know where to get them.

Can anyone tell me a part number or a place i can get the O-Rings that seat inside my D30? I'm not sure if they were in every d30. I'm working on an 89 with the CAD, they basically seat where the axle tubes meet the differential housing.

i spent over $20 on one from napa and it lasted maybe a few months put one in from the dealer and was about $6 and its still cookin. id go with an OEM part

mine does the same thing sometimes. it seems to do it mostly on damp cold days. usually it stops after a few seconds but one day it wouldnt stop. i put it in drive and it was normal then i drove home about 15minutes put it in park and i went back up to around 2500k. i just shut it off and it hasnt happened lately. ive been blaming the IAC though

i pulled my bed and left the bumper on. wasnt an issue for me

my d35 did the same thing awhile back. step on the gas and it starts howling, let off and noise goes away. i changed the fluid and it got better but not perfect. A few weeks later i changed it again and did half 80-90 gear oil and half lucas oil stabilizer. It seemed to get better overtime and now i don't hear the howling at all. My rear end has about 190k on it though. I don't know how many miles your 8.25 has on it but it doesnt seem like it should be having issues unless it was abused.

walmart! 20 bucks for 20 nuts! I'm pretty sure there one piece without those stupid covers. only certain stores carry them though. yea so what if i work at walmart!

i tried advance no go there so i ordered one from napa. thanks guys

i know it has to be set at certain depth. I have a micrometer and should be able to install without a problem. I suppose i could leave in the old ones, its just that i spent $220 on 4 new moog ball joints and i want everything to be the way it should when I'm done

lol maybe it grows on you

any ideas where i can get a tool for this. ive tried every autoparts store and the local dealership everyone looked at me like i was crazy.