motownXJdad Posted September 23 Share Posted September 23 hello, I'm wanting to swap on an older style factory aluminum valve cover to replace a later style stamped steel one. I'm in the process of stripping multiple (3) layers of paint from previous owners. I'm going to attempt to polish it since no one sells a polished valve cover for Jeep inline 6's. my question is, does the older style pictured require a different gasket than the popular blue one from Fel-pro? i will be doing the Cruiser54 valve cover mods too👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 I would think it should be the same. I’ve got the old valve cover on a 96 engine. I’m guessing I ordered the gasket for an 89, but I don’t remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motownXJdad Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 1 hour ago, 89 MJ said: I would think it should be the same. I’ve got the old valve cover on a 96 engine. I’m guessing I ordered the gasket for an 89, but I don’t remember. ok thanks👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salvagedcircuit Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 Before you mount the old cast aluminum valve cover, check the mating surface. Mine was not finished well and I ended up using a metal file and knife sharpening stones to flatten the surface. These imperfections left indentations in my old gasket and I did not want them in my new $40 felpro reusable gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motownXJdad Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 15 minutes ago, Salvagedcircuit said: Before you mount the old cast aluminum valve cover, check the mating surface. Mine was not finished well and I ended up using a metal file and knife sharpening stones to flatten the surface. These imperfections left indentations in my old gasket and I did not want them in my new $40 felpro reusable gasket. ill definately checj that out, got a part # on that gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 I used the popular blue fel pro one. Works great, doesn't leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 I also use the Blue Felpro. I've done a '98 and a 2000 XJ. Also, the Cruiser mod. I use the 93-95 ZJ valve cover. Also, I use the later 97-01 XJ 'Big Tube' CCV tube and fitting. I did a '95 HO VC on my '88 MJ. Also, the 'Big Tube' too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motownXJdad Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 6 hours ago, pizzaman09 said: I used the popular blue fel pro one. Works great, doesn't leak. with a factory aluminum valve cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 4 hours ago, motownXJdad said: with a factory aluminum valve cover? Yep with the factory aluminum valve cover on my stock 90 Renix 4.0L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motownXJdad Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 awesome! thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 13 Share Posted November 13 I am about to replace my valve cover gasket with the blue fel pro one (pn VS50522T). The new gasket came with a very small written instruction, not mentioning any type of sealant being added. So what is the consensus here on the need for adding any sealant versus just cleaning well and using this gasket as is? It is thick rubber so it seems that it might not be needed, but, well that's why I am asking. If the consensus is add something, what is the recommended addition? Lastly, what is the torque on the valve cover gasket bolts? Or is it just "snug plus 1/2 turn" like my dad would have probably done 50 years ago.. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JYau Posted November 13 Share Posted November 13 I just replaced my valve cover and torqued the bolts down to 85 in-lbs. Seemed to work fine for me I didn't notice any leaks yet. If I remember correctly it's probably very similar to snug and then +1/2 turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 13 Share Posted November 13 Thanks. FYI just to show it, here is the fel pro insert... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 14 Share Posted November 14 Yeah I know, another question. But better to ask now than when I am oily and greasy and in the middle of the gasket replacement. In the pic of the new valve cover gasket, I am curious about the tab. This is where "COVER SIDE" is stamped. The question is not what does that mean , it is about the tab itself. The curiosity is, isn't this tab going to stick out beyond the lip of the valve cover? Seems like that is going to prevent a good seal at that point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted November 14 Share Posted November 14 2 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: The curiosity is, isn't this tab going to stick out beyond the lip of the valve cover? Seems like that is going to prevent a good seal at that point? Yes it sticks out of the valve cover. It is just a reference tab and doesn't affect the sealing properties of the gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 14 Share Posted November 14 5 hours ago, Eagle_SX4 said: Yes it sticks out of the valve cover. It is just a reference tab and doesn't affect the sealing properties of the gasket. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted November 15 Share Posted November 15 Also, you have the 93-95 ZJ Valve cover. It will use the latter CCV grommets of the Steel VCs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 16 Share Posted November 16 On 11/15/2024 at 6:20 AM, 75sv1 said: Also, you have the 93-95 ZJ Valve cover. It will use the latter CCV grommets of the Steel VCs. I don't know what it is you are letting me know... But I swapped the gasket today with failed results. I think at this point I need to start a new thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 18 Share Posted November 18 On 11/13/2024 at 4:00 PM, JYau said: I just replaced my valve cover and torqued the bolts down to 85 in-lbs. Seemed to work fine for me I didn't notice any leaks yet. If I remember correctly it's probably very similar to snug and then +1/2 turn. I have now replaced my valve cover gasket, and after some help here finding out where the disconnected hose goes in a new thread, all is well. I used the same intuition I have used for 50 years for any other bolt tightening when tightening the valve cover bolts. My question is, suppose I got found myself with a torque wrench. Seems fine to go around again and touch the bolts if any were under torqued, but if they are not under torqued, let's say just a little over torqued, would I mess up the gasket seal if I slightly loosened the bolts and re-tightened them using a torque wrench? Or is it too late for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JYau Posted November 18 Share Posted November 18 I think it sort of depends on how much you have driven it since the install. When I had originally did my valve cover gasket I had the plastic version of the valve cover and when I went to install it a few of the plastic flanges on the cover broke off. That's when I decided to upgrade to the aluminum cover. I ended up driving around once with the new gasket and old plastic cover before my aluminum one came in. I then took the old plastic cover off and installed the new aluminum one and re-used the gasket. All seems fine. I'm inclined to think that if you're thinking your valve cover bolts are a bit over torque you're probably fine and I would just leave them as it. The torque spec on the cover doesn't include any tolerances so there is some wiggle room. That Fel-Pro gasket is pretty stout in my opinion and can probably handle a little more torque as the original torque spec was rated for the OEM gasket which is probably some other inferior material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 18 Share Posted November 18 2 hours ago, JYau said: I think it sort of depends on how much you have driven it since the install. When I had originally did my valve cover gasket I had the plastic version of the valve cover and when I went to install it a few of the plastic flanges on the cover broke off. That's when I decided to upgrade to the aluminum cover. I ended up driving around once with the new gasket and old plastic cover before my aluminum one came in. I then took the old plastic cover off and installed the new aluminum one and re-used the gasket. All seems fine. I'm inclined to think that if you're thinking your valve cover bolts are a bit over torque you're probably fine and I would just leave them as it. The torque spec on the cover doesn't include any tolerances so there is some wiggle room. That Fel-Pro gasket is pretty stout in my opinion and can probably handle a little more torque as the original torque spec was rated for the OEM gasket which is probably some other inferior material. Sounds right. I have probably put on about 10 miles since the install. I have had the need, well the interest anyway, to add a torque wrench to the collection so I suspect I'll get one and check the torque that my intuition ended up with, and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted November 18 Share Posted November 18 19 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Sounds right. I have probably put on about 10 miles since the install. I have had the need, well the interest anyway, to add a torque wrench to the collection so I suspect I'll get one and check the torque that my intuition ended up with, and go from there. Might as well add the torque wrench if you’re doing the rear main. You’ll need it for torquing the main caps anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 18 Share Posted November 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 20 Share Posted November 20 Got my hands on a torque wrench, checked one of the bolts and it clicked at around 7.5-8 ft-lbs, not far off the recommended 85 in-lbs (7.1 ft-lbs) so I guess my shade tree intuition was not too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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