OkayishOffroad Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 So I'm at a loss and hope there's a simple fix to my issues, A little info. Truck is a 1988 with a 4.7 stroker and an ax15 swap, The truck worked amazingly then the internal slave cylinder popped. I disconnected the battery and started pulling all the parts to replace the slave. A couple weeks pass the parts have arrived so I install everything and go to fire it up. It starts popping, hunting idle then dies. It's been 3 days of trouble shooting and have made almost no progress it feels like. CPS tests good, Map to throttle body vac line is good, fuel pump relay is good, Went over the three main grounds I know of and cleaned them as well as replaced the head to firewall ground. I'm sure there's more I'm forgetting. It has "idled" for almost 30 seconds couple times then dies. I also noticed the exhaust gasses seem extremely hot almost instantly, its concerning to me but what do I know. Any help is appreciated I miss driving this thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboedMJ Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Please give some more information about your truck and put that info in your signature for permanent. Is it 2wd or 4wd? What other mods does it have? This will give a head start to figuring out your issue. The first thing that comes to my mind is if it is 4wd check vacuum lines to the transfer case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Curious to know, are you running Renix on that stroker or Mopar for efi? Did you replace the flywheel along with the clutch? There are two flywheel styles is the reason I ask. Renix uses a different reluctor than Mopar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OkayishOffroad Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 12 hours ago, TurboedMJ said: Please give some more information about your truck and put that info in your signature for permanent. Is it 2wd or 4wd? What other mods does it have? This will give a head start to figuring out your issue. The first thing that comes to my mind is if it is 4wd check vacuum lines to the transfer case. Sorry about the I'm not the best with computers and I thought I did that already lol. Its 4wd with a np231 also has aftermarket currie axles so no vacuum disconnect front. The usual bigger injectors to go with the stroker, Ax15 swapped from ba10. other than that nothing else is done engine/management wise. Still Renix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OkayishOffroad Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 11 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: Curious to know, are you running Renix on that stroker or Mopar for efi? Did you replace the flywheel along with the clutch? There are two flywheel styles is the reason I ask. Renix uses a different reluctor than Mopar. It is still renix! Flywheel remains the same as it had in it before the internal slave replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 I'll ask a few dumb questions of simple things to check. Does it have consistent spark and if you put a timing light on it does the timing look reasonable? Did you touch the O2 sensor? If so unplug it and see how it runs. When installing the starter motor again, did you mess up something with the wiring? Forget to hook up any wires near by? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OkayishOffroad Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 27 minutes ago, pizzaman09 said: I'll ask a few dumb questions of simple things to check. Does it have consistent spark and if you put a timing light on it does the timing look reasonable? Did you touch the O2 sensor? If so unplug it and see how it runs. When installing the starter motor again, did you mess up something with the wiring? Forget to hook up any wires near by? No question is a dumb question I appreciate them all, Only spark related thing ive checked is the plugs themselves and they all look good, o2 sensor was not touched at all during the change but I did unplug it to see if anything changed while "Idling" and nothing did, I didn't undo any wires when the trans was pulled other than disconnecting the battery, CPS And the reverse switch. Starter was unbolted and tied up out of the way. I did notice today the fuel pump is sounding funny but when I hooked up a pressure gauge to the rail it checked out at 31 psi then 38 ish when "Revved" before it died again. ive gone over every bolt I touched and they are all perfect, Is it possible something is acting funny/ died because it sat with no battery for 2 weeks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 I’m leaning toward something in the crank sensor system, CPS, dirty wiring, something messed up with the tone ring on the flywheel, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 My 2¢ Did you replace or fiddle with the clutch hose from the master to slave/throw out? If so, did you (accidentally) mess with the ballast resistor wiring?. Your symptoms sounds like its fuel related: starts, runs for 30 seconds, then dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 3 hours ago, 87MJTIM said: My 2¢ Did you replace or fiddle with the clutch hose from the master to slave/throw out? If so, did you (accidentally) mess with the ballast resistor wiring?. Your symptoms sounds like its fuel related: starts, runs for 30 seconds, then dies. One could jump the ballast resistor and see if that allows it to run. It's definitely in the vicinity of the area if swapping slave cylinder parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OkayishOffroad Posted May 21 Author Share Posted May 21 9 hours ago, pizzaman09 said: One could jump the ballast resistor and see if that allows it to run. It's definitely in the vicinity of the area if swapping slave cylinder parts. Also tried jumping it with no luck, Its doing the exact same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OkayishOffroad Posted May 21 Author Share Posted May 21 17 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: I’m leaning toward something in the crank sensor system, CPS, dirty wiring, something messed up with the tone ring on the flywheel, etc. Cps tested good but I did order a brand new one to try anyways, I pray nothings wrong with the tone ring. I don't want to pull the trans in by driveway again Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 When it does stop running, can you check to see if there is any fuel pressure in the rail? Alternatively you could put a timing light on and see if that is what cuts when it stops running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 Can you keep it running by holding the throttle open? You didn’t need to pull the exhaust to drop the trans, did you? Just wondering if something could have crawled in and plugged it up. Is the trans properly seated on the back of the engine? Did it slide on nice or did you have to fight? Nothing pinched in the gap? The crank sensor won’t read correctly if the bellhousing and engine aren’t in proper alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 Make sure D2_4 stays HOT during KEY ON, CRANK and ENGINE RUNNING. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OkayishOffroad Posted May 21 Author Share Posted May 21 11 hours ago, pizzaman09 said: When it does stop running, can you check to see if there is any fuel pressure in the rail? Alternatively you could put a timing light on and see if that is what cuts when it stops running. Fuel pressure holds perfectly at all times, when it's stopped and when it's just primed without starting. I will be investing in a timing light asap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OkayishOffroad Posted May 21 Author Share Posted May 21 10 hours ago, gogmorgo said: Can you keep it running by holding the throttle open? You didn’t need to pull the exhaust to drop the trans, did you? Just wondering if something could have crawled in and plugged it up. Is the trans properly seated on the back of the engine? Did it slide on nice or did you have to fight? Nothing pinched in the gap? The crank sensor won’t read correctly if the bellhousing and engine aren’t in proper alignment. Holding the throttle barely does anything, it will slowly rev a little while popping then just dies no matter the throttle input. I will double check the bell housing to block but everything went together very smoothly. 10 hours ago, Ωhm said: Make sure D2_4 stays HOT during KEY ON, CRANK and ENGINE RUNNING. Awesome I will check that out as soon as this storm passes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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